Schneider 75mm f5.6 with Linhof Technika 4x5 recessed board

[Mat23]

Howdy All,

I'm looking for a detailed description of the correct recessed Linhof Technika 4x5 lens board that will fit the following lens.
Schneider 75mm f5.6 Angulon single coated version. The lens comes with a Copal 0. I need guidance for:

1.Is there a correct lens board 'hole size' for this 'specific lens' or is it enough to say it needs to fit a Copal 0?
2.Any guidance on the depth of the recess with regards to this specific lens*?
3.Any guidance on whether the additional shutter release attachments found on a complete Technika recessed board are vital? or just nice to have?

*The board will ultimately be used on an Intrepid 4x5 which does not have bag bellows.

Your advice appreciated
Mat

 

[Bob S]

LInhof 001015 is the correct board for the Technika IV through the Master Technika.

 

[abruzzi]

1 - Copal #0 requires a 34.6mm hole. I've never heard of a Copal #0 that took a different sized hole.

2. This will be entirely dependant on the camer itself. If the standards can get close enough then you don't need a recessed board at all. I've never owned or used an intrepid, so I can't comment, thought the Intrepid people could probably easily tell you if you need a recess and how much.

3. If you have a recessed board, access the controls are a challenge. Worse though is screwing in a cable release, which is in many cases impossible. You have a few options--you can skip the cable and release with your finger, you can screw on a short attachement to the shutter before mounting it. The attachemnt would either be a rigid 90 degree attachement, or a flexible attachement. You could get a small thing cable release, attache it to the shutter before mounting, and just leave it there. Or you could use the quick release adapter common on linhof recessed boards. The only negative with the quick release taachement, is most don't seem to be threaded. Instead you need a tiny little piece that screws nto the tip of a cable release, and become what the quick release holds on to. I don't like that approach because that tip is so tiny it is easy to lose. I have a couple of those boards, so I bought the tip and used loctite to more or less permanantly attach it to one of my cable releases.

 

[Bob S]

Or, you can get the current 001015 Comfort Board which adds features and eliminates all of the above perceived problems, and solutions. But that board new is more then your camera.

 

[Ian Grant]

Bob, does it really need a recessed board ? While I don't have a Linhof I do have 3 MPP MicroTechical cameras which are essentially based on the Linhof in production during WWII as part of war reparations.

MPP took a different approach and use a coned ttop-hat board for a 90mm, and that also works for a 75mm the idea being the front standard stays on the inner body rails while in use, however it does make getting to the rise/fall and shift controls near impossible to access while focusssed at even moderate distances. I guess this is why Linhof use the opposite approach with the recessed board.

Ian

 

[abruzzi]

I peeked on the Intrepid site and it states 75mm lenses will require a recessed board, so the only question is how much recess is sufficient. I'd assume a 10mm recess would be sufficient.

 

[Ian Grant]

I peeked on the Intrepid site and it states 75mm lenses will require a recessed board, so the only question is how much recess is sufficient. I'd assume a 10mm recess would be sufficient.

I use a 75mm f5.6 Super Angulon on my Wista 45 DX on a flat board with no issues, it may be the bellows won't compress enough, I also use a 65mm on my Wista but that needs me to tilt the back then tilt the front to prevent the front of the focus bed being in the image, sounds awkward but in practice is quite quick.

Ian

 

[Bob S]

Bob, does it really need a recessed board ? While I don't have a Linhof I do have 3 MPP MicroTechical cameras which are essentially based on the Linhof in production during WWII as part of war reparations.

MPP took a different approach and use a coned ttop-hat board for a 90mm, and that also works for a 75mm the idea being the front standard stays on the inner body rails while in use, however it does make getting to the rise/fall and shift controls near impossible to access while focusssed at even moderate distances. I guess this is why Linhof use the opposite approach with the recessed board.

Ian

Yes, it does.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

I like recessed boards with my wider lenses and non-interchangeable bellows when I have to use any movements at all. With a 75mm lens, movements are minimal, but a bit of rise or shift is still possible. The recessed board will keep the bellows from crimping even on cameras that one could use a flat board on. The Intrepid may be designed so that the standards can't get close enough to focus a 75mm lens with a flat board, in which case the recessed board would be a necessity.

Don't get too shallow a board if you have bellows-crimping problems; a deeper board will free things up more.

Any recessed board you get will mean that you have to rig up something for the cable release (either a permanent mount or some kind of right-angle or flexible adapter or a lenboard-mounted cable socket with a wire extension). Plus you'll need to set the aperture and maybe cock the shutter with something. I use the end of the cable release or a pencil. The shutter speed dial I can turn with my fingers, but I use the pencil on that too sometimes.

Best,

Doremus

 

[abruzzi]

Any recessed board you get will mean that you have to rig up something for the cable release (either a permanent mount or some kind of right-angle or flexible adapter or a lenboard-mounted cable socket with a wire extension). Plus you'll need to set the aperture and maybe cock the shutter with something. I use the end of the cable release or a pencil. The shutter speed dial I can turn with my fingers, but I use the pencil on that too sometimes.

There is where the Linhof comfort board sounds great, if I could afford it, but as Bob mentioned, it costs more than a new Intrepid. I know I've seen some other setups that allow controlling the shutter settings in hard to reach locations, but none of them seem to be affordable. the Sinar shutter and DB lenses is probably the most accessible system, if you use a camera that can make use of it, but those shutter are climbing in price.

 

[Mat23]

Thank you everyone. Really helpful info. I probably wasn`t placing enough emphasis in my decision making process on the cable release and access to lens settings. I have this afternoon purchased a Schneider 90mm on a fully functioning recessed Technika board. Maybe not the focal length I was thinking about but I can`t really go wrong.

Happy snappin`
Mat

 

[MARTIE]

Thank you everyone. Really helpful info. I probably wasn`t placing enough emphasis in my decision making process on the cable release and access to lens settings. I have this afternoon purchased a Schneider 90mm on a fully functioning recessed Technika board. Maybe not the focal length I was thinking about but I can`t really go wrong.

Happy snappin`
Mat

I believe you've made the right decision. I have the 90, 75, 65 & 58xl and to be honest, the 90 gives the most pleasing/natural perspective of all of them. The 90mm will also probably do for the vast majority of situations that you'll ever find yourself in with the added bonus of a larger image circle and easier movements.
I'm sure you'll really enjoy your new lens/camera combination!

 

[xya]

yes, that was a good decision. I have a super technika IV with a 90mm schneider and its recessed board. I would say that this really is the limit. below you better get the wide angle focussing unit. have lots of nice photos with your new combo...

 

[Bob S]

You don’t need the WA unit for lenses longer then 58mm. 65, 72, 75 and 90 wide angles on a 45 Technika use the 001015 recessed boards.

 

[xya]

You don’t need the WA unit for lenses longer then 58mm. 65, 72, 75 and 90 wide angles on a 45 Technika use the 001015 recessed boards.

did you really succeed? can you explain and/or show photos howto? I tried to focus a 65mm. I advanced the front standard to the rail on the bed, dropped the bed and then slid back the standard as far as it would go. no way for me to focus at 2m. even infinity wasn't accurate...

 

[Mat23]

One last thing for you all...

I received the Schneider 90mm on the Technika recessed board yesterday. It appears that the person who installed the lens (not the seller) removed the plastic triangular 'shutter open' rocker switch leaving just the metal footing. I guess this is understandable and was the only way to install the lens into the recess. I`m not overly concerned although it does sail rather close to a deal-breaker situation but then again I work slowly so operational speed isn`t really an issue for me and the price was fair...

The metal footing that remains is pretty darn short. Apart from using a pointy thing, does anyone have any suggestions for extending the lever to something a little higher. Better still would be if there was a Schneider part that could be installed next time the lens goes for a service I wonder...

Cheers Mat

 

[abruzzi]

The metal footing that remains is pretty darn short. Apart from using a pointy thing, does anyone have any suggestions for extending the lever to something a little higher. Better still would be if there was a Schneider part that could be installed next time the lens goes for a service I wonder...

I have an older 90/5.6 SA installed in a recessed Technika lens board. My reccolection (not at home to look) is its in a Compur #0 shutter, and the shutter opening lever does not have the triangular black plastic handle to open and close. A previous ower seems to have soldered on a metal wire piece to open and close. Its less than great, but it does work. If you like I can try to take a pic of it later tonight and post it. I don't use the lens that much, preferring the weight of the SA 90/8 or the WF Ektar 100/6.3, both of which are much smaller and lighter, but it works and doesn't seem too fragile.

(a unrelated note is both my 90/8 ad 90/5.6 SAs are in annoying #0 shutters with click stops on the aperture. I'd like to remove the piece that does that, but have been to scared to disassemble the shutter to get deep enough to remove it. I also have a Compur #3 shutter with the same clicky stops. One of these days I'm going to send all three shutter off for a CLA and click removal.)

 

[Bob S]

One last thing for you all...

I received the Schneider 90mm on the Technika recessed board yesterday. It appears that the person who installed the lens (not the seller) removed the plastic triangular 'shutter open' rocker switch leaving just the metal footing. I guess this is understandable and was the only way to install the lens into the recess. I`m not overly concerned although it does sail rather close to a deal-breaker situation but then again I work slowly so operational speed isn`t really an issue for me and the price was fair...

The metal footing that remains is pretty darn short. Apart from using a pointy thing, does anyone have any suggestions for extending the lever to something a little higher. Better still would be if there was a Schneider part that could be installed next time the lens goes for a service I wonder...

Cheers Mat

LInhof used to make 2 slightly different recessed Technika boards for the 90mm. One for Compur shutters (001015] and one for Copal shutters (001016}.
When Prontor Werke discontinued their shutters they slightly changed the 001015 to accept both Compur and Copal shutters without the problem yours has.

 

[Mat23]

I have an older 90/5.6 SA installed in a recessed Technika lens board. My reccolection (not at home to look) is its in a Compur #0 shutter, and the shutter opening lever does not have the triangular black plastic handle to open and close. A previous ower seems to have soldered on a metal wire piece to open and close. Its less than great, but it does work. If you like I can try to take a pic of it later tonight and post it. I don't use the lens that much, preferring the weight of the SA 90/8 or the WF Ektar 100/6.3, both of which are much smaller and lighter, but it works and doesn't seem too fragile.

(a unrelated note is both my 90/8 ad 90/5.6 SAs are in annoying #0 shutters with click stops on the aperture. I'd like to remove the piece that does that, but have been to scared to disassemble the shutter to get deep enough to remove it. I also have a Compur #3 shutter with the same clicky stops. One of these days I'm going to send all three shutter off for a CLA and click removal.)

Howdy Abruzzi,

You may well be right, soldering might be a good option and to be honest, I haven`t had time to think it though so thank you!
I shall pursue a friendly electronics person with a steady hand! Totally agree about the clicks stops too! I know these will begin to grate on me at some point...!

Best regards
Mat

 

[abruzzi]

here is a pic of the little wire that was soldered on: