Scanning on a Scanmate Scanview 5000...

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sperera

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...i have a Scanmate Scanview 5000...running off an old Powerbook G3 mac and system 9 and scsi cables.....anyone have any ideas how to run this off new Macs if at all possible and if so what software could i then use.....I have a dongle key to make its software run.....Colorquartet

also, i never got the hang of doing colour negatives well....anyone have any tips?
 

Piotr Fracala

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...i have a Scanmate Scanview 5000...running off an old Powerbook G3 mac and system 9 and scsi cables.....anyone have any ideas how to run this off new Macs

Buy (cheap :smile: ) PowerMac G4 1,25 GHz (Mirrored Drive Door), install any scsi card and MacOS 10.4.10 (or 11?), download Colorquartet 5.3.1 (http://www.abc-scan.dk/International/Downloads/download.htm). Enjoy.

if at all possible and if so what software could i then use.....

Only dedicated. ColorQuartet under MacOS X and ColorQuartet 4.x and ColorTrio under MacOS 9.x.x

I have a dongle key to make its software run.....Colorquartet

Dongle ADB or USB?

Piotr
 

Bruce Watson

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...i have a Scanmate Scanview 5000...running off an old Powerbook G3 mac and system 9 and scsi cables.....anyone have any ideas how to run this off new Macs if at all possible and if so what software could i then use.....I have a dongle key to make its software run.....Colorquartet

There are some Scanmate users at the Yahoo ScanHi-End group. Perhaps one of them can help you with the specifics of Macs and versions of software.
 

Bruce Watson

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....also how should I develop T-Max 100 5 x 4 film, for example, for my drum scanner when Im not going to print up in a darkroom?

I use 400Tmax which I scan on a ColorGetter 3 Pro drum scanner. Optimum for me and my workflow is to develop somewhat less than I would for the darkroom. In Zone System terms, my "N" development time is about what a darkroom worker would call "N-1". In other words I shoot for a Zone VIII density of about 1.0.

Why? Less density means less graininess, which also means less light scatter due to Callier Effect, which means less highlight compression in the resulting scan file.

I suspect that the optimum density will depend on your scanner and software, so you'll have to experiment to find out what's optimum for you and your workflow.
 
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sperera

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sperera

sperera

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Ive read about getting a Ratoc FR1SX to convert the SCI to firewire and to thus run it on Mac OS 10.5....any thoughts? does this mean i can get the scanner to connect to even my Mac Pro running 10.5.6...now THAT would be cool......how do i get around the ADB dongle key though?????????
 
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sperera

sperera

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I use 400Tmax which I scan on a ColorGetter 3 Pro drum scanner. Optimum for me and my workflow is to develop somewhat less than I would for the darkroom. In Zone System terms, my "N" development time is about what a darkroom worker would call "N-1". In other words I shoot for a Zone VIII density of about 1.0.

Why? Less density means less graininess, which also means less light scatter due to Callier Effect, which means less highlight compression in the resulting scan file.

I suspect that the optimum density will depend on your scanner and software, so you'll have to experiment to find out what's optimum for you and your workflow.
i agree with you....N-1 would be perfect as I'd rather have a negative with all the details in the shadows and highlights which i would then use as a starting point to create a more contrasty image if I so chose.....with this type of negative you can create the image you want in Photoshop thereafter...
 

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The scanning software you have is almost certainly system specific so if it is currently running on MAC G3 under OS9 it is highly unlikely that it will run on a newer MAC running any version of OSX.

As for the best negative for scanning, it is best to expose for full shadow density and then, as Bruce advises, develop to a relatively low CI, N-1 about right.

Sandy



i agree with you....N-1 would be perfect as I'd rather have a negative with all the details in the shadows and highlights which i would then use as a starting point to create a more contrasty image if I so chose.....with this type of negative you can create the image you want in Photoshop thereafter...
 
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