I would very much like to find something suitable, and if anyone has a link to such a bellows contraption, it would be greatly appreciated!
I would very much like to find something suitable, and if anyone has a link to such a bellows contraption, it would be greatly appreciated!
Of those two lenses, the Nikkor Micro 55/2.8 is, by far, better suited to your purpose. If the Micro lens works, I would forget about trying to use the zoom for copying film.So, I already have a camera, a Nikon D3200 with a AFS Nikkor 18-55 3.5-5.6 G lens, the regular one that comes with this camera. I would like to know if this lens will work and if yes, what sort of extensions I would need (if any), or perhaps a different lens would be needed? I also have a Nikkor Micro 55/2.8, ...
Do not be so dismissive. Color balancing is a problem in 99% of camera scans I see online, even in minuscule web sizes. To me this means that before resolution is even mentioned in a thread like this one, beginners need to get advice on how to get good color. Even with slides. I have tried several camera manufacturers, and the default happy path doesn't work for film scanning: Adobe Color or default camera profiles / picture modes produce wonky color. Tools like NLP help but they introduce inconsistency. I would even say that for a beginner with average image editing skills there is no simple and reliable solution to get good color out of a digital camera. In other words, when I look at the difficulty of scanning-related tasks, I assign the 80% weight to color balancing, 10% to resolution, and 10% to workflow convenience. And it's not as simple as choosing a good light source. It's that, plus dealing with camera color profiles, color filter arrays, and having above average image editing skills.
B&W is an exception, sure.
There is a reason dichroic heads is/was so popular with colour negative film.
Yeah. RA4 paper.
If only things were so simple. But I'm currently not interested in creating another diatribe. Looks like we have enough for those going on already. So say I'm agreeing or disagreeing to whatever you say, whichever way you fancy. Floor is yours.Thought you’d be the last person to disagree?
If only things were so simple. But I'm currently not interested in creating another diatribe. Looks like we have enough for those going on already. So say I'm agreeing or disagreeing to whatever you say, whichever way you fancy. Floor is yours.
Steven, this scanner was a very good tool, and to some extent still is. But I cannot use it with Silverfast software, which is what I used to in the past and still want to use for the foreseeable future. I am using currently Vuescan Pro, which is all right, but does not offer the multitude of options, as Silverfast does.
To make things more interesting, the only version I've got for this Plustek 7200 is Silverfast software is 6.0, which cannot be used with Windows 10. I would need to buy a more recent version of the software, which is almost an arm and a leg. I know, there are numerous other software solutions, some even free, but the Silverfast offered me what I needed and I stick with what works for me.
Don’t be that way. I’m very interested in what you have to say on the matter. Obviously you have researched this more. And it is very pertinent to the topic of the OP.
I realize now I should've mentioned that the film to be scanned with this digital contraption is 99% black and white, not colour.
Makes me extra happy I decided to not post at length here, but instead do a blog on it
I realize now I should've mentioned that the film to be scanned with this digital contraption is 99% black and white, not colour. The C41 and E6 is usually handled by my local lab, with satisfactory results, although I do not shoot much of it anyways.
Thank you !
Alright, you're right and I'm sorry. I guess I'm kind of weary of this topic because it's actually pretty darn complex (more so than I can oversee, frankly) and because I have a feeling (justified, or not) that there's at least some conservatism that plays a significant role in what people say is 'best' in terms of a DSLR scanning setup.
A proper response would take a lot of space and I'd rather not throw this thread off track too much (for a change...) So instead of replying here, I've written a blog on it instead: https://tinker.koraks.nl/photograph...ht-sources-for-dslr-scanning-color-negatives/
I've limited the scope of that post to scanning color negatives (C41 and ECN2). Some or perhaps all of it might be extrapolated to color positive film, I'm sure, and it will apply (perhaps even more so) to maskless color negative film as well. But I only explicitly go into the case of C41, and since that's quite similar to ECN2, I know the principles should apply there as well.
I also don't explore in very much depth different light sources per se; for instance, I don't go into using white LEDs vs. some form of incandescent bulb. Instead, I discuss 'old-fashioned' filters such as the dichroic filters combined with a broad-spectrum light source vs. narrow peak light sources, in particular LEDs.
A further limitation is that the piece is theoretical. It's really a paper napkin kind of exploration, without any empirical work. I'm kind of tempted to undertake the latter, but frankly it's not really a priority for me, now.
Hope you enjoy; at least the piece reflects why my earlier response to the recommendation of using a dichroic head was somewhat evasive/doubtful. I don't think it's necessarily 'the best' choice - although there's no doubt in my mind that it works very well and that in practice, there's very little to be gained to throw it out of the window.
Good work in putting that together in under 24 hours.
A proper response would take a lot of space and I'd rather not throw this thread off track too much (for a change...) So instead of replying here, I've written a blog on it instead: https://tinker.koraks.nl/photograph...ht-sources-for-dslr-scanning-color-negatives/
The best thing would be to have a monochrome sensor which you would expose three times with narrow R, G, B peaks and then assemble that data into colour scan.
There is at least one other option. If someone is switching to digital camera scanning from a flatbed or dedicated film scanner they might already own a copy of Viewscan. I have found that Viewscan works very well for inverting the color of my digital camera scans of color negatives. The relevant Viewscan settings are Task: Scan to file, Source: File, Files: <digital camera scans>, Mode: Transparency, Media: Color Negative. The other Viewscan settings are just as if I was scanning the negatives themselves with my Plustek or Epson scanner.But switching to camera scanning also means buying some kind of color inverting software. There are 4 popular options that come to mind: Negative Lab Pro, Negmaster, and ColorPerfect. There are also two free options: grain2pixel and Negadoctor module in Darktable. None of them are good, unfortunately. By "good" I mean comparable to Silverfast with a supported scanner.
For clarity when considering JerseyDoug’s post - it is “Vuescan”, not Viewscan.
And you will need to pay for the Professional version.
Looking up sensitivity peaks in C41 film datasheets I see wavelength in nm, but I haven't any seen color filters with nm in their specs. Where should I be looking at?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?