The Bayer sensor is the downside of camera scanning color. The subtle colors can be compromised. I think the character of film is altered a bit. I've never used a pixel shift camera though which would theoretically get around that. I'd be curious what people's experiences with them were.
My conclusion over the years is camera scanning is worth it for proofing or small enlargements if you have a setup that makes it quick to do. I also think it is worth it if you want to eek out every ounce of resolution with stitching. That is such a pain to do though it rarely is worth it. I still use my Nikon scanner because it is convenient and does the whole roll. The scanner takes more time but it is less of my time. For medium and large format I just use a flatbed. I still think drum scanning is king for medium/large format.
I'm surprised no one (or maybe someone has) come up with an automated stitching system similar to a cinema rig. A Sony like the A7RIV/V with it's pixel shift would be pretty nice if the lens had enough resolution. Or better yet, a medium format camera like the Fuji. Of course at a certain point you might as well get a drum scanner.
Color conversion is the main stumbling block with camera scans. I do it myself. Just looking even at Steven's small images on screen I can see why he does too. He obviously has a fine eye for color.
@Les Sarile All scans were done at the maximum resolution. For the X5 it's a different number based on the negative size. The samples above are 6x6 and 35mm.
@Helge I'm traveling this weekend and do not have access to full resolution files. Just wondering why you need the 100% patches? I was trying to compare color here, not resolution. Otherwise I would have picked different negatives, exposed on a tripod, at optimal aperture, with good detail in focus present in the scene, etc. And still... I wouldn't want the focus of the conversation to flip to resolution, which happens all the time! For example, the X5 scans all have aggressive sharpening applied, which the lab claims they couldn't disable. Subjectively, I think it makes grain look unnatural, while I know others may prefer it. Anyway, I may get back to this thread when I return home.
I could but there are many orher unknown variables so I ask, what resolution was used.@Les Sarile All scans were done at the maximum resolution. For the X5 it's a different number based on the negative size, you can look up the specs on Google. The samples above are 6x6 and 35mm.
Long story short, I now scan with an Eversmart Supreme II.
@NortheastPhotographic hehe these very same negatives are in the mail on their way to Michael to be scanned on the iQ3. @Helge I will post 100% patches in PNG format later if you're curious.
Sometimes you can see samples on our Instagram. My impressions of the Creo are that I love it first of all. It makes scanning easy. The 5600ppi is IMHO a little low for some 35mm films, that's where those Imacons really sing. But for all other purposes I would prefer the Creo. The upper spring loaded glass holds the film perfectly flat. The top glass is ANR, and for the base glass the fluid mount glass is slightly etched while the dry is the clearest optical glass I've ever seen. However, after some testing I determined that the fluid glass is fine to use regardless of dry or wet mounting.Hi Northeast, I'd love to read your impressions/a review of your Eversmart set up and even see some samples if you have the chance. Thanks!
@Helge I have full-sized scans (16-bit TIFFs) of the same negatives made with the Imacon, Creo iQ3, and Sony A7R IV with Sigma 105mm. The files are massive, approaching 1GB total for 3 scans of the same negative. Color balance, file dimensions, and sharpening are not matched. Flextight scans aren't even inverted. Scanner TIFFs have ungodly amount of dust.
I do not have the time to clean them up and make them directly comparable, but I can find a way to post links to full-sized raw data tomorrow. If someone has a better idea, LMK.
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