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- Jan 21, 2007
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Marvellous portrait!
I want to know (please) about the technical aspects of this photos (film and developing process).
I love the tonality but they look a little over-sharpened to me. What kind of sharpening routine are you using?
g'day monkey
can you briefly explain what problems you initially encountered in scanning and how these images show a rectification of these issues?
thnx monkey
so these images "look" grainy because they are (ISO 400 pushed to 1250)?
In case you don't want to obtain grain I think is better to buy a digital camera.
Grain is film, grain is beautiful.
Jay,
Both images of very nice. The outdoor landscape has a very dramatic look as if something really big is about to happen, and the portrait of the little girl, your daughter I assume, is very warm and intimate.
Regarding Pyrocat-HD, it is possible to use it as a two-bath developer. You dilute Stock A 1:10 with water to make working bath A, and Stock B 1:10 with water to make working bath B. Develop for five minutes in each at 75F. You can develop several more rolls in the working solution if in the same developing session, but at the end of the session discard the working solution.
Diafine with TRI-X gives quite a bit of grain. In the case of both images you posted the grain needs to be subdued, IMO. You should consider investing in a noise reduction software like Noise Ninja or Neat Image. With this software you can profile your film to reduce grain a lot without loss of sharpness.
Sandy King
Thanks Sandy!
Have a couple questions for you...
1) Love FP4+ developed in Pyrocat-HD! What EI do you shoot FP4+ when you use it in a two bath developer? And, what is the agitation do you use with tank development? What about LF drum development?
2) You are right about the grain of Tri-X in Diafine. I use Noise Ninja and it can eliminate the grain. However, there is an aethetic to grain that I do like in some photographs. I've just developed my first roll of Acros 100 in Diafine, haven't scanned it yet, and it looks like it is going to be beautiful... (wonder how Acros looks when developed in Pyrocat-HD?)
Thank you for your help getting to this point... now it is up to me to see if I can produce any interesting work.
Jay
I would expose FP4 at an EI of 100 for development in a two bath developer. For tank development I agitate for the first thirty seconds, then for ten seconds every minute thereafter. For drum development with constant agitation dilute the working solutions 1:1 with water and develop for the same time, but discard the diluted solution after use.
Acros100 is my favorite film for MF work. It gives beautiful results in both Pyrocat-HD and in divided D23. Both Pyrocat and divided D23 give slightly finer grain then Diafine, IMO. Course, my observations are based on scanning since I don't optically enlarge film anymore.
Right now I really like Diafine, because it is easy to use with non-critical developing temperature and time, it's long life, an apparent effective film speed increase, and it consistently produces negatives that scan well. In you judgment and opinion do divided D-23 and divided Pyrocat-HD produce sensibly better results in the print, e.g., can they make the difference between a technically marginal print and a good print? If so, why, e.g., fine grain, staining effect, etc.? How have you answered this question for yourself?
I have not tested the limits of any of these three developers in terms of print size that would seriously challenge any of them with the fine grain B&W films that I use. If you look with a microscope at an Acros negative developed in Diafine, divided D23 and divided Pyrocat-HD you will see a bit more grain in the one developed in Diafine, with the other two about equal. However, the scanner, method of scan, and type of post-processing introduce variables that are greater than the observed differences in the negative. I personally stick with divided D23 and divided Pyrocat-HD for Acros because I like to mix my own developers and both of these developers are very inexpensive to mix and use.
At a final print size of about 18X21" from a 6X7cm Acros negative I really don't think you will see much different in image quality. If you were to push this out to 36X41" I suspect that the divided D23 and divided Pyrocat-HD negatives will give better prints, but that is an untested opinion.
Sandy King
Jay and Sandy please forgive my past indiscretions and allow me a (long) question;
Sandy, your proposing quite large print sizes, would you have the prints made externally, what current digital printers will do justice to your carefully prepared files, what is the availabilty of such devices, and what would one expect to pay for such a service?
Figure for 35mm:
2k for scanner & printer, 150.00 for calibration, and 700 for hw/sw upgrades to the avg home machine: 2850.00
For MF:
3k for scanner & printer, 150.00 for calibration, and 1000 for hw/sw upgrades: 4150.00
For 4x5:
6k for (used imacon or low end drum) scanner plus 24" printer, 150 for calibration, and maybe an additional 1250.00 in upgrades for a total of 7400.00
Add to the minimum:
image editing software priced from 100.00 to 500.00
computer with enough power, RAM and hdd space priced form 0 (already sitting on my desk) to the sky's the limit
Highly recommended:
Monitor Calibration: 100 - 300.00
RIP (rastor image processor) 200.00 to 10k
Really nice to have:
Reflective sensitometer with printer calibration/profile software (300.00 w/o rip to 10k with rip)
Without a monitor calibration device you are not getting a large portion of the benefit of the ADD/ADA workflow.
Figure for 35mm:
2k for scanner & printer, 150.00 for calibration, and 700 for hw/sw upgrades to the avg home machine: 2850.00
For MF:
3k for scanner & printer, 150.00 for calibration, and 1000 for hw/sw upgrades: 4150.00
For 4x5:
6k for (used imacon or low end drum) scanner plus 24" printer, 150 for calibration, and maybe an additional 1250.00 in upgrades for a total of 7400.00
Cost of ownership can be very high as well. Imacons can be finicky, drums use consumables and be expensive to fix. Ink jet printers can easily consume ink costing more than the printer and paper can get very expensive as well and we must not forget the cost of upgrading software every couple years.
There is a real cost to going digital in a substantial way and it is a personal decision as to the value of doing so.
I don't like inkjets prints enough to purchase a really nice one for personal use. For my work I much prefer digital RA4 which can run anywhere from $3 to about $20 per square foot. By not buying an ink jet and sending the work out to be printed you can knock 1k off of the cost and possibly break even on the cost of ink v. the cost of digital RA4 output.
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