Scaling up light readings from a DSLR to 6x6

[zowno]

Bit of a strange question. I'm shooting an indoor party next weekend and I'm going to have to use flash. I've never used a flash before and haven't done any experiments with one. I was hoping to use a aps-c digital camera to get light/flash readings and do a test and wondering if there was a way to scale up my readings from that camera and apply that to my 6x6 Mamiya?

 

[Chan Tran]

You can use the DSLR meter to measure ambient light but not flash. For flash you have to use it in manual. Take test shot and see what kind of setting is the best. There is no scaling upt. Use the same setting as the DSLR.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Set the exposure for the time that will synchronize with the shutter. Set the f/stop to the recommended opening. If the strobe has a sensor and is automatic just take the photographs, otherwise focus and then divide the subject distance into the guide number and us the result to set the f/stop. So if the guide number for your speed film is 250 [in feet] and the distance is 10 feet then 250/10 = 25 so the f/stop is slightly more closed than f/22.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Bit of a strange question. I'm shooting an indoor party next weekend and I'm going to have to use flash. I've never used a flash before and haven't done any experiments with one. I was hoping to use a aps-c digital camera to get light/flash readings and do a test and wondering if there was a way to scale up my readings from that camera and apply that to my 6x6 Mamiya?

Chsn is right.Exposure is independent of film format Any good time/stop combination for one format is also good for any other format.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

or have you ever seen a light meter where you have to set the fit format?

 

[spijker]

I also this method, works like a charm. I hardly use my flash meter anymore. Set the flash to manual mode, not TTL, and experiment with your DSLR settings and flash power settings (full, 1/2, 1/4 etc) until you get a good exposure on the DSLR. Copy the aperture and shutter speed settings from the DSLR to the Mamiya 6x6 and you're good to go. Make sure the DSLR is set to the same ISO as your film. It might be good to do a test run and develop the film before the party.

 

[MattKing]

I also this method, works like a charm. I hardly use my flash meter anymore. Set the flash to manual mode, not TTL, and experiment with your DSLR settings and flash power settings (full, 1/2, 1/4 etc) until you get a good exposure on the DSLR. Copy the aperture and shutter speed settings from the DSLR to the Mamiya 6x6 and you're good to go. Make sure the DSLR is set to the same ISO as your film. It might be good to do a test run and develop the film before the party.

Essentially, spijker is suggesting you use the DSLR to do test exposures - similar to how commercial photographers used to use Polaroid materials.
You should note that the flash is used on manual, and the meter in the DSLR isn't used at all.

 

[spijker]

Correct, digital is the new polaroid. Forgot to mention in my previous post; the depth of field of your aps-c camera is a lot more than the 6x6 at the same aperture. So you should think ahead about what aperture on the 6x6 you will use to get sufficient depth of field and tolerance for non-perfect focusing. The party space will likely not be brightly lit and your 6x6 doesn't have auto focus like your DSLR. So essentially, you choose the shutter speed and aperture first. Then adjust the flash power to get the correct exposure. If the flash isn't powerfull enough, you can use a higher ISO film.

 

[M Carter]

While I'll use the DSLR in the studio with complex lighting setups for medium format (same as polaroid back in the day), I'm generally much happier with a flash meter for faster situations. You can do some tests with a flash meter and a DSLR to get a feel for how the reading connects to what you want to see, but the meter makes for a smaller kit. Though optimally, you want someone holding it in the subject area. I use the Sekonic which can be wired or will sense the flash pulse. Depends on the situation of course.

BTW, I had a commercial client ask me to shoot an event a while back. I'm not an events guy, but they paid my studio rate, and they're a great client (and i got to have lunch with Tom Felicia, really sweet guy). The night before the event, I was packing and found my Nikon DSLR had died - the only digital I own with a TTL external flash. But I have a Samsung Mirrorless (NX1) that's my primary video camera (killer 4K and takes my Nikkor lenses). I had an "aha!" moment, and dug out my ancient Vivitar 285. Did some quick tests, and the exposures looked as good as TTL, took it to the event and the shots were great (Samsung's try at a pro-camera was a financial failure, but a freaking epic technological success - amazing camera). All this to say, a decent auto-thyristor flash can be a great tool for any non-TTL shooting. And the Viv is like $20 these days.

 

[MattKing]

One caution - make sure that if you are using something like a Vivitar 285, that you check the trigger voltage first.
Some versions of that flash, and a lot of older ones, have a trigger voltage that can damage a camera with electronic flash synch circuits.
I have a set of Bowens portable studio flashes that have a 600 volt trigger voltage! They work fine with older, fully mechanical film cameras like the RB67, but more modern cameras like my Mamiya 645 Pro or my digital camera need to be protected by using either a Wein Safe Synch or radio or optical triggers.

 

[Berkeley Mike]

The V 285 is a true soldier.

 

[M Carter]

One caution - make sure that if you are using something like a Vivitar 285, that you check the trigger voltage first.
Some versions of that flash, and a lot of older ones, have a trigger voltage that can damage a camera with electronic flash synch circuits.
I have a set of Bowens portable studio flashes that have a 600 volt trigger voltage! They work fine with older, fully mechanical film cameras like the RB67, but more modern cameras like my Mamiya 645 Pro or my digital camera need to be protected by using either a Wein Safe Synch or radio or optical triggers.

Yep, I tested the Vivitar with a meter. I actually took a beater Speedotron head and tore it up and made a holder for the Vivitar that has a Speedotron mount, because I love the 11" Speedo reflector with the grids. So I have a battery powered flash (I stick a radio slave on it) that can take speedo reflectors. The shot below is digital, but I just used a superclamp on a ceiling joist to hold the Viv with the Speedo reflector, and put a 300w fresnel on the background - tungsten-gelled the flash (full CTO) on manual power, shot at 1/2 second or so to blur the BG. Actually shot it at a crowded happy hour, one of those Thrillist "best bartenders" deals. Pretty cool, using a cheap-ass vintage-ey strobe for a modern gig, and no stands or cables out in the busy bar area.