Scaaning fluid

[mrred]

Does anyone know the correct PH a fluid should be for a wet scan?

 

[Loris Medici]

I don't think scanning fluid has a pH value, since it doesn't contain any water. (pH is meaningful only for water solutions conceptually, right?) Isn't scanning fluid a petroleum based volatile liquid?

 

[mrred]

I don't think scanning fluid has a pH value, since it doesn't contain any water. (pH is meaningful only for water solutions conceptually, right?) Isn't scanning fluid a petroleum based volatile liquid?

PH is for anything that contains Hydrogen. Yes they usually contain petroleum (naphtha). I am trying to formulate something worth while as good scanning fluids go for a kings ransom. I am just covering all bases.

 

[Loris Medici]

I see...

BTW, as a note: Probably you have to find something that has the same refractive index as emulsion (or very close to it) in order to eliminate (or to not accentuate) scratches...

Good luck!

Regards,
Loris.

 

[donbga]

PH is for anything that contains Hydrogen. Yes they usually contain petroleum (naphtha). I am trying to formulate something worth while as good scanning fluids go for a kings ransom. I am just covering all bases.

pH is for anything that has OH ions or dissolved hydrogen ions if I recall correctly.

 

[Rudeofus]

PH is for anything that contains Hydrogen. Yes they usually contain petroleum (naphtha). I am trying to formulate something worth while as good scanning fluids go for a kings ransom. I am just covering all bases.

Don Bryant, you are technically right, you need H3O+ and OH- ions for a meaningful pH value. However, organic acids do dissolve in oil and act as acids on anything which is at least moist, so I could image an effective pH value defined for such a setup. No idea how I would measure of fine tune this (as AFAIK most pH test strips or electrodes require aqueous solution) or which value would be ideal for film scanning fluids. I'd assume that pH of 7 can't be too wrong, since the water for washing film ideally has pH of 7.

 

[pellicle]

someone with more chemistry knowledge may wish to correct this, but according to my memory of CH103 at Uni in the 80's it was something like:

pH is defined as the negative log to base 10 of the hydrogen ion activity in an aqueous solution.

 

[DanielStone]

not sure about pH,

but there are many users of the Aztek KAMI mounting fluid, I've used it on a friend's Nikon 9000 with the wet-mount adapter and it didn't harm the film in any way. the scans were very nice though, much better than the dry scans. better shadow detail, less grain(almost none from 6x7 e100g @3200dpi), and there was less dust too!

just takes more time.

read more about it .. its the Kami SMF 2001

http://aztek.com/consumables.html

-Dan

 

[mrred]

not sure about pH,

but there are many users of the Aztek KAMI mounting fluid, I've used it on a friend's Nikon 9000 with the wet-mount adapter and it didn't harm the film in any way. the scans were very nice though, much better than the dry scans. better shadow detail, less grain(almost none from 6x7 e100g @3200dpi), and there was less dust too!

just takes more time.

read more about it .. its the Kami SMF 2001

http://aztek.com/consumables.html

-Dan

That's what started me on this. They expect me to pay a lot of $$ for what appears to be nothing more than lighter fluid (naphtha) in a pretty bottle. I have an old (1930-40) pub that used an ammonia based concoction for fluid mounts in enlargers.

There is no way this should be an expensive endevor.

So far my tray consists of an 8x10 sheet of plain glass suspended on scanner bas glass by some cardboard strips to raise it to 1mm (optimal for my 4490). I have a better-scanning MF ANR glass to go on top of the sandwiched neg. This idea is mostly from comments from S.K. on PN.

All that is left is a good fluid concoction. I just have to find something that will work and not damage my pyro negs.

 

[Photodana]

mrred, I appreciate your parsimonious nature. It would be silly to pay $80 for two quarts of lighter fluid; however, if there is a reason the solution costs that much, than I'm willing to pay it. Aztek is not the only one selling Scanner Mounting Fluid and Optically Clear Mylar kits. Check out Scanscience.com. I'm with you about protecting my pyro negs from destructive solutions and will post anything new that I learn. I'm looking for a source for .001" optically clear Mylar. Any leads?

 

[mrred]

mrred, I appreciate your parsimonious nature. It would be silly to pay $80 for two quarts of lighter fluid; however, if there is a reason the solution costs that much, than I'm willing to pay it. Aztek is not the only one selling Scanner Mounting Fluid and Optically Clear Mylar kits. Check out Scanscience.com. I'm with you about protecting my pyro negs from destructive solutions and will post anything new that I learn. I'm looking for a source for .001" optically clear Mylar. Any leads?

No leads on Mylar. I considered that about two months ago and realized that my focus (non adjustable) is at least 1mm above the glass in transparency mode. I didn't think it was worth pursuing for me.

I have some pyro negs (WD2D+) soaking in some lighter fluid, and plan to keep it there for a couple of weeks. That should give me an idea on how well that should last.

 

[Photodana]

I have learned a little since I last wrote. An old timer recalls that during the days of the speed graphic, they would finish the wash of sheet film (photojournalism) with wood alcohol which would dry in about two minutes. Not sure if this is archivally a good idea.

Lighter fluid is essentially benzene. Isopropyl alcohol will probably make the gelatin brittle which may be caused by any of these products including the stuff they're selling at $40 a liter.

Leaving any gelatin product in water for extended periods may cause it to sluff off. Perhaps a better approach with lighter fluid which may cause the same effect is to soak it, let it dry, soak it and let it dry multiple times. I suspect that the real damage is not to the plastic such as obviously using acetone but what will happen to the gelatin by these compounds with continuous exposure. I'm interested in what you find out.

 

[Carl1]

The two most common are Kami fluid and Lumina. Kami evaporates quickly as it is alcohol and petrolium based. Lumina last longer on the drum. In terms of final scan quality I would give Lumina the edge it also spray nicer on the film and film cleanup is easier with very little remaining residue.

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