I've never seen a multi bladed easel that was accurate. There's always a non-parallel blade, or a side that was not equal. And it's made worse that 8x10 inches for instance is never a dead perfect 8x10. Something's always going to be off. And 5%?? You can forget that. Unless you have a drafting or light table with a T square and triangle, so you can cut masks out of printer's masking paper, also known as offset printers stripping paper to lay on top of your print paper before closing the easel. Notnnig wrong with the easel you have. You can buy a thousand easels and they'll all be off.
I use graph paper at the same size as the printing paper. I have used store-bought and papers I have made myself with the computer. I set up the blades with the graph paper, and then when I put the photo paper in, it works every time. One doesn't need graph paper, one can simply make up papers with the outline of a given print size and line up the blades to that.
After a short while, you get used to how your easel's scales "perform". They tend to be out a consistently small amount, which is easy to recall.
For my most commons setups, I use something like the graph paper setups referred to earlier in the thread to set the blades the way I want them, and then add a small black mark to the scales to serve as a reference for future use.
The only real challenge is when I use someone else's easel in their darkroom.
18 years ago I got a like-new Beseler 16x20 in which the vertical scale sticker is applied 1/8" off. I set the vertical blades, then simply move both 1/8" down. Problem solved x 18 years.
Your borders are too small. LOLI’m wondering what im doing wrong here.
Saunders easels are universally praised. They are sturdily made for sure, but I’m a little surprised at the inaccuracy of the framing placement.
For example take the screenshot of a 7.5” x 7.5” framing I traced on 8x10 RC Pearl on a UA1620 easel.
While the frame size is indeed approximately 7.5x7.5, it’s really off centered.
I’m aware that the paper needs to go all the way to the left along the paper slot, and that I need to make sure it’s properly slotted.
And yet the left edge of the trace is off by 50% or so (not .25” from the paper’s edge like it should be), and similarly for the right edge.
The top and bottom edges are more reasonably placed, although still around 5% off.
That's cheating. The good kind!18 years ago I got a like-new Beseler 16x20 in which the vertical scale sticker is applied 1/8" off. I set the vertical blades, then simply move both 1/8" down. Problem solved x 18 years.
I have both a Beseler and a Kaiser 4-blade easels, different sizes. I find I need to be careful loading the paper or I can get uneven margins either because the sheet is not fully set in the slot, or it is crooked.Your borders are too small. LOL
Paper is often smaller than stated dimensions, that will throw things off.
Now that you know the problem the solution is easier.
That's cheating. The good kind!
I have only had the Saunders 11x14 standard model and the 16x20 that is 1" high for autofocus enlargers and never noticed any scale problems. I have used 2 different 11x14s since the '70s. I have to be careful inserting paper with a heavy curl but no problems with crooked prints. All of these easels were likely hand assembled and subject to the craftsmanship of the builder. None of them are new at this point and have their own idiosyncrasies. My 11x14 has a lazy blade I have to watch or I get a crooked border but checking it has become part of my routine.I have both a Beseler and a Kaiser 4-blade easels, different sizes. I find I need to be careful loading the paper or I can get uneven margins either because the sheet is not fully set in the slot, or it is crooked.
I have both a Beseler and a Kaiser 4-blade easels, different sizes. I find I need to be careful loading the paper or I can get uneven margins either because the sheet is not fully set in the slot, or it is crooked.
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