Saunders 16x20 4 blade easel - piston replacement

Sharing my fix with the group...

The original Oil Filled Spring developed a leak of a yellow oil and would no longer hold up the frame.
I ordered a Gas Spring from Am@zon Canada (see below for details)
The brackets on either end of the gas spring have mounting holes that are larger than the original, so I DIY'd a bushing to take up the slack.
I reused all the original hardware, however I needed to add 1 #10 Nylon Washer on the moving end and 1 on the fixed end.
Photo 1: Original Oil Spring in place
Photo 2: Moving end original hardware
Photo 3: Fixed end original hardware
Photo 4: Comparison of original and new Springs (shows new spring with DIY bushing in place)
Photo 5: DIY bushing for new Gas Spring
Photo 6: Additional Nylon washer added to original hardware
Photo 7: Moving end in place with additional washer
Photo 8: Fixed end in place with additional washer
Photo 9: New Gas Spring holding frame in place. Holds in place from vertical to about 35 degrees

All the best
Todd

Replacement Gas Spring from Am@zon Canada:
$25.65 for 2 unit package
[7 inch Lift Support Struts 11lbs] Force: 11lbs,
Total Length: 193mm / 7.60", Rod Length: 54mm / 2.12",
Extended Length:181mm / 7", Compressed Length: 127mm / 5".



#10 Nylon Washer from Home Depot:
Paulin #10 Nylon Flat Washers x 2 pieces $0.22 each.

Great job!

Good info, thanks for posting!

Can anyone accurately comment whether the perimeter blade frame on this model is any different than the frame on the models with the simple detent bar? This seems like a worthy modification, but I wouldn't want to over stress the frame.

MTGseattle said:

Can anyone accurately comment whether the perimeter blade frame on this model is any different than the frame on the models with the simple detent bar? This seems like a worthy modification, but I wouldn't want to over stress the frame.

Click to expand...

It is where the gas spring attaches. I considered the prop stick option. My "new' easel arrived with a dead spring and the aroma of Hoppes gun cleaner. I'm guessing something in Hoppes killed the spring/strut.

I found a new strut from an outfit in San Diego that cross referenced my number and found something close that fit with bushings from Ace Hardware. I would post their info but they closed.

Back then conversion to stick would have butchered the frame so I replaced the strut. I have a mill now so if the new strut fails my answer might be different. I've no problem with the prop stick on my 11x14. No spring, locks up, two hands to close.

I think I posted my fix here some years ago. lol Sure is Nice when things work!

Thank you very much, Todd.

I've been struggling with a less than sufficient piston support for some time, and this provides a process to enable better use of the easel than propping up the frame with my chin while I insert paper for smaller sized prints.

Mal Paso said:

It is where the gas spring attaches. I considered the prop stick option. My "new' easel arrived with a dead spring and the aroma of Hoppes gun cleaner. I'm guessing something in Hoppes killed the spring/strut.

I found a new strut from an outfit in San Diego that cross referenced my number and found something close that fit with bushings from Ace Hardware. I would post their info but they closed.

Back then conversion to stick would have butchered the frame so I replaced the strut. I have a mill now so if the new strut fails my answer might be different. I've no problem with the prop stick on my 11x14. No spring, locks up, two hands to close.

I think I posted my fix here some years ago. lol Sure is Nice when things work!

Saunders Easel Lift Support Repair

I bought a 16x20 Saunders 4 blade easel online and it arrived with the Gas Strut that holds the easel open totally dead. The previous owner described it as a spring and I think he oiled it with something that ruined the gas seal. I discovered there are 2 16x20 models, one with a prop arm one...

www.photrio.com

Click to expand...

Thanks Mel.

It seems logical that the Aluminum would be thicker in the area where the gas strut attaches vs only the manual lift/stay bar. I didn't reply to the thread you linked, but I would caution anyone reading it to try and stay away from cheap tap/die sets. Marred/improper/somehow goofed threads are a nightmare. For this particular fix or retrofit task one should only need the appropriate tap and pilot bit pair for the required hardware.