Salt Printing - NEED HELP

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zhussein

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I've been attempting to use the salt print process using the Bostick-Sullivan kit. I've made three attempts, following the instructions to the best of my ability, and every time the print seems okay throughout the entire process: developing, fixing, etc. But after I leave it to dry, every time it comes back looking like charcoal. Like it's entirely overexposed. Seriously at a loss here as to what could be happening.

Here is a photo during fixing:
67803785192__D434B710-11D1-491E-8E92-D22715BE138E.jpg



Here is a photo once dry, after a 20 min wash.
IMG_7676.jpg


Please help.
 

fgorga

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What paper are you using?

Are you pre-treating the paper in any way before salting and coating the paper?

In my experience, salted-paper is one of the more finicky processes when it comes to choice of paper.
 
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zhussein

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What paper are you using?

Are you pre-treating the paper in any way before salting and coating the paper?

In my experience, salted-paper is one of the more finicky processes when it comes to choice of paper.

I am using Strathmore 140lb water-color paper. I've seen people recommend watercolor paper. Everything seems to be fine until it dries - would that be the paper?
 

fgorga

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Most watercolor paper is 'buffered' with calcium carbonate which makes it unsuitable for alt process printing unless the paper is treated with acid to remove the carbonate. There is lots of information on this available on the web.

I usually recommend that folks start with Hahnemuhle Platinum Rag or Bergger Cot 320 paper. These papers are expensive but are made specifically for alt process printing straight out of the box. Arches Platine is another paper in this category, but I have had some trouble with this paper for salt printing.

Once you can make an acceptable print on paper known to work for alt processes, then you can experiment with other papers and pre-treating those papers.


I am using Strathmore 140lb water-color paper. I've seen people recommend watercolor paper. Everything seems to be fine until it dries - would that be the paper?
 
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zhussein

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Just picked up that Platinum Rag paper. Thanks for the tip!
 

AgX

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Welcome to Apug!


I am impressed. 12 minutes after having been given that paper advise you picked it up that paper... you must be living above an art-supply store.
 

koraks

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Here is a photo during fixing:

Your negative has far too little contrast. There's virtually no separation between highlights and shadows. Due to the dry-down effect, the entire image will sink into an indistinguishable mud pool.

Here is a photo once dry, after a 20 min wash.

There are issues with dmax in your process; perhaps the paper you picked up will help. If not, post back.

But you'll need to fix the problem with your negative first. If you're using an inkjet printer to produce a negative, try experimenting with two parameters:
1: ink density; particularly Epson printers allow this parameter to be manipulated. You can often go to +20% or so to get denser highlight areas.
2: color combination; print a rainbow onto transparency material and then print that using the salt print process. Note which color(s) create the highest density and then use that/those for making your negatives. Back when I did this I ended up using yellow + black.

You may find your printer is simply not capable of producing the density required to make a full-tonal range salt print. This issue is still overlooked by many; if you can't make a salt print that has both pure paper white and a very, very deep brown (that tones in gold to pure black), then it's about 95% sure your negative is not up to the job.
 
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