I have got some foil tape on order which I will use for masking on some. I actually think the rawness of the edges actually adds a 'hand made' quality to the prints which I really want to keep! I have a lot of prints made for commercial reasons which are clean and tidy but this process lends itself well to brush marks and the odd drip stain. As you say I really need to ensure I am washing out all the unexposed Silver Chlorides and fixer. At the moment I am only using rapid fixer but I think I need an additional hyper stop fixer wash out stage too. It is early days and I am only experimenting for now. The plan is to produce a series of 10 shots and print off 25 Limited Edition runs of each. A lot of work, so I need to ensure everything is going to last and be consistent. I am many weeks away from that happening.
Nice work!Last night I prepared 3 sheets of paper mixing a 30ml 2g mix of Sodium Chloride + 1g of Geletine and re-used my previously mixed Silver Nitrate and citric acid solution. I made a box with coat hanger wire pushed through it to make shelves to house 3 pieces of paper and left them to dry. Today in the UK it was very cloudy which apparently is great for better contrast than a sunny day. It was also humid which is worth noting. I also ensured the negative's had a slightly better D-Max than my first attempt.
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The first print of Slash I used a digital negative made from the original transparency. It is a shot I took a few years ago and knew this would work well in this medium. Print time was 10 minutes and I made sure I loaded the frame in safe light (I know it can be done in low light but a torch with a red filter on in the shed works for me). I also unloaded the frame in dark conditions and kept everything dark until 5 minutes into the fixing.
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I also made a print of Ville Valo. Printing negative made from the original transparency.
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I am really happy with the results. Especially the paper coating which is starting to look consistent. I have one small area that did not receive any salt or silver Nitrate which is odd as I checked thoroughly after each coating. On that same print (above) I have 2 black spots on the right (is this contamination from the previous fixing?). The contrast levels are excellent. Taking the paper out in safe light conditions stopped any fogging and the contrast is good (especially on the Ville print).
I also printed a view of Polruan on the river Fowey in Cornwall. This time I sensitised my paper all the way to the edge on both coatings. I think I could have given it a slightly longer exposure to burn in the sky. The tonal range is excellent.
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All in all a great day Salt Printing. Will be interested to see how they look once fully dry and what discolouration occurs.
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With salt printing, the image tone changes after EVERY step (including waxing). That's part of the challenge. BTW, the GEM process sequence includes the use of gold toner, and the image tone changes based on the extent of toning.Can someone confirm I will keep the brown/red/orange colour if I revert to Sodium challenge and what density change you experienced? I also may have to use a toner before the fix after all. I am actually quite enjoying this process of discovery and imagining Talbots frustration when he has exactly what he wanted but was unable to preserve it!
They are transparency film negatives 10x8. I need to do some more research on toners then.
thanks for correcting me ned !I know that people use gold thiourea toner w/ salt prints, but I've never tried it myself. Maybe someone will chime in who's done it.
My fixer is: 10% sodium thiosulfate with 0.2% sodium carbonate. An alkaline fix will help avoid image bleaching. You really do want to tone salt prints for longevity, but don't forget the salt bath after the initial rinse and before toning to remove the free soluble silver. I use about a tablespoon of kosher salt per 1500 ml water for a 1% solution. This can help prevent staining.Thanks for the advise NedL, I love the idea of painting the Silver Nitrates so they spill under the tape in places. I will give that a go. I am concluding that the Rapid Fixer is way too harsh for this process. I have experienced a lot of darkening and reddening to the prints above. I think I got some bad advise about using the Rapid Fixer. The prints still look good but not as vibrant as above. Can someone confirm I will keep the brown/red/orange colour if I revert to Sodium Thiosulphate and what density change you experienced? I also may have to use a toner before the fix after all. I am actually quite enjoying this process of discovery and imagining Talbots frustration when he has exactly what he wanted but was unable to preserve it!
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