Salt Print Question

[Ihartsoe]

I have started to do salt printing, and I am having problems with my prints being to flat.
I am using kodak 320txp film and kodak d-19 developer at temp 75 degrees for 16 minutes. I'm going to bump up the development time to 20 minutes and see what happens.
My question is what do other people do in terms of getting the proper negative to do a good print?

 

[Vaughn]

Seems like you should be getting plenty of contrast in your negs.

There might be some self-masking going on with salt prints -- if so, excessive printing exposure would reduce contrast in the print (the blacks not getting any blacker, but the highlights keep getting more exposure.) You might try reducing your exposure to see if you get some of that contrast back.

Vaughn

 

[dmax]

I agree with Vaughn that given your time, temp, and type of developer, your negatives should already be plenty contrasty. My Tri-X negatives for salt prints currently go 14-16 minutes in Dilution B of HC 110, and they're really contrasty as it is.

To work around the self-masking properties of salt prints, do not expose directly in sunlight but instead place your printing frame in the shade. Direct sun exposure will result in flat prints since the shadow values do not have time to catch up with the highlights. Be warned though: exposing in the shade may require a number of hours. My contrastiest salt prints come from exposure times of 4-6 hours, even here in sunny Southern California.

 

[garysamson]

Hi Ian,
You would be better off using Tmax 400 for your in camera negatives as it is easier to quickly build up highlight density with that film and you need a lot of contrast in the negative if you are attempting to make a full range print. I would also suggest using Pyrocat MC developer as the resulting stain will enhance contrast and keep your printing times within reason. A salt print will require the same density range as an albumen print.
Best,
Gary

 

[9circles]

I have started to do salt printing, and I am having problems with my prints being to flat.
I am using kodak 320txp film and kodak d-19 developer at temp 75 degrees for 16 minutes. I'm going to bump up the development time to 20 minutes and see what happens.
My question is what do other people do in terms of getting the proper negative to do a good print?

Ian,
I found that contrast was pretty controllable after a bit of testing. Hope this makes sense to you - I wrote it up at the time, but its a bit vague.
For exposure I use a facial tanning studio (£20 off of the auction site ) which I find really controllable. I generally use it at 30cm from the print. This is NaCl, fixed in hypo on archers plantine.
ok so....

salt 1st test copy - Brush coated test print. this is 2 minute exposure. Very low contrast.

salt 2nd image copy - Brush coated test print. Better contrast - 3 minute exposure - still not enough though.

salt 3rd test copy - Brush coated test print. 3 and a half minutes. about right contrast and exposure for this print for me.

final image - Rod coated final print. 3 and a half minutes. Fixed for 4 and a half.

Don't click on the thumbs if nudity offends. Hope this helps a little.

Best wishes

Ian

 

[Ihartsoe]

Hey Guys,
Thanks for the advice I will try doing less time that might be the issue my times are around an hour and a half to two hours. So less time might be what I need to do
Thanks Ian

 

[Jim Noel]

I'm with Gary to an extent. TMax 400 will give you the contrast you need, as will FP4+ which is my choice.
Tri-X. like other 400 speed films, just will not expand enough to make a good negative for salt and albumen.

I also agree with Vaughn, your exposures are far too long.