I cannot imagine how I would do RA4 in total darkness.
I recommend total darkness and am accustomed to it. For something tricky like loading a heavy roll of RA4 paper onto the cutter reel, I have a little Jobo Minilux light with a neckstrap that has tested safe for brief use. The recommended filters for Kodak's old beehive and rectangular lights are so dim at recommended distance that they're almost useless. .
Yeah, the Kodak filter can tell you which end of the sink room is which, but that's about all.
Even before fogging is visible, subtle shifts in color balance can be expected. This means your 'safe time' is probably significantly shorter than 25 seconds if you aim for consistent reproduction.I have done a sensitivity test with my setup and only after 25 seconds of reflected light off the ceiling is there ANY trace of fogging and is so faint and can only be detected by comparing with a pure white surface, so for all intents and purposes can be ignored.
Even before fogging is visible, subtle shifts in color balance can be expected. This means your 'safe time' is probably significantly shorter than 25 seconds if you aim for consistent reproduction.
Like Pentaxuser I would not/could not use RA4 in a completely blacked out darkroom, there are too many things to do when printing colour that make it impractical, especially if you use a drum as opposed to a Nova deep tank.
If the light is kept low as low as you can manage (There is a graduated scale) then after a while it is not bad at all. I use Kodak Endura paper which is only available as a roll so need a level of light where I can put the paper through a guillotine. I have done a sensitivity test with my setup and only after 25 seconds of reflected light off the ceiling is there ANY trace of fogging and is so faint and can only be detected by comparing with a pure white surface, so for all intents and purposes can be ignored.
Replacement bulbs are as far as I know unobtainable having been discontinued several years ago, fortunately I have two spares.
I have found that, contrary to what Ilford state, you can use one of the Duka lights without the B&W red filter in place and I don't get noticeable fogging, even when the lamp is at full brightness and exposed for around 3 mins.
I don't consider myself an skilfull person, more on the clumsy side, but I can work without problems in total darkness doing RA-4. It is a lot easier than it seems.
And of course, I turn on the light when I finish a copy.
What setting on your DUKA 50 is this? I think the 50 has a slider that goes from 0-50. I have the DUKA 10 and my slider goes from 0-35 but it is a reasonable assumption that my 0-35 covers the same shut to fully open as does your 0-50 so I can work out what your setting means on my 0-35. 80 seconds seems like a pretty good margin to me.I did another test with my Duka again after I had -repositioned it to reflect off the white ceiling. I made 4 test exposures using a test strip printer, he 1st exposure was 20 seconds and the other 3 were 20 seconds each making a total of 80 seconds. There was a 5th strip right at the start which was not exposed and to be honest I cannot see any difference between the control strip and the strips that has been exposed
There was a post in my thread on building my own color enlarging head that gave what the poster called "purported" spectral curves for Kodak Endura color printing paper.
Looking at those curves, I was reminded that I've heard conflicting information about color darkrooms: that they need to be totally dark (which would make sense, since the print paper is sensitive to all colors) or that there is in fact a safelight for RA-4 print papers (which, based on the curve given in that post, ought to be at appr. 575 nm, a little redder than the yellow sodium line)
What I note, however, is that the "log sensitivity" at that lowest point, the crossover between magenta-forming and cyan-forming layers, is only about -3 from the peak of the magenta-forming layer's sensitivity, and much less different from the cyan-forming peak.
This seems to me to suggest that either I don't know how to read the units they're using (a very real possibility, if they don't read like dB), or there's only about one stop less sensitivity at this minimum than there is at the paper's maximum, which would imply that the safelight, besides needed a very narrow emission spectrum, would also have to be quite dim.
Dim is okay -- anything is better than total darkness, when your eyes will routinely lose some of their adaptation from the bright image cast by the enlarger, and all that's really needed is some way to confirm the emulsion side of the paper without leaving fingerprints, and to be sure the paper is correctly aligned in the easel and submerged in the chemical trays.
But I distinctly recall being told by a friend who had done RA-4 printing that the darkroom wasn't all that dark.
Which is it?
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