Rust

[arigram]

Take a look a the attached photo.
This is my metallic custom ordered basin which has a nice layer of rust on top of it, mostly due to the water and possibly chemical spills. Even though I asked for some alloy to resist stains and chemicals, its very probable that the guy who made it didn't know exactly what it was going to deal with. So, I have this mess. I tried spraying and spreading anti-rush chemicals to clear the oxidation to some success in the beginning before the disease spread to the whole thing.

Considering I can't toss this one and get a new darkroom specific basin, is there anything I can do to clean and protect it from further oxidation. I don't know, like some plastic protection or something?

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

Looks like he didn't use stainless steel, which should have been sufficient. I'd get it nice and dry, buff out the rust with some steel wool or some other polishing agent, then see about some kind of marine varnish that would adhere to metal.

 

[Christopher Walrath]

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I don't know how far you might want to carry this but they also make rust converters. They work lkike this. Remove excess rust as Scott suggests and then you apply the rust converter (#3711/Bondo, sold at auto parts stores) and it converts light surface rust to a satin black primer. I know, kind of extreme but an option none the less.

 

[Mark Antony]

I agree clean with wire wool, then lacquer, or if you have some clear laminate that might work better as it will be more chemical resistant.
I have seen some peel away PVC laminate you put on glass windows to make them hard to see through, can't remember the make...

 

[bdial]

If you want the refinish effort to last, you'll need to remove as much of the rust as humanly possible then chemically treat the surface as Chris suggests, then apply some sort of durable coating. In addition to the finishes mentioned, you might consider an epoxy floor paint.

 

[TimVermont]

After it is cleaned up try Epifanes 2-part marine epoxy paint for steel. The Epifanes website lists three distributors in Greece.

 

[glbeas]

You need to make sure the coating has enough stretch and flex to not break free from the metal as it flexes during use. I tried epoxy style truck bed liner but that only lasted a month before it started flaking off and making a bigger mess than ever. The best way to keep the rust down is to be sure to rinse well and dry the sink after each use. Don't leave anything sitting wet in the sink, a tray will wick a layer of water under it and hold it there while the sink rusts under it.

 

[AgX]

After grinding mechanically you could consider powder coating or 2-component varnishing. An alternative would be plating the basing with PVC plates which are welded at their edges.

But this all involves quite same hazzle, money and the longterm outcome might be dubious. I really would consider having at least the basin re-made by means of stainless steel plates.

 

[Steve Smith]

You could clean it up then use it as a mould to make a fbre glass sink. A fair amount of work to do but your sink will never rust again.


Steve.

 

[ic-racer]

If it is stainless steel, then this suface oxidation will unlikely erode through. If that were the case I'd make a rubber mat to cover it up.

 

[arigram]

Oh, thank you guys!
I knew there were plenty of handymen here in APUG!
I think I will go to a hardware store and consider my options.
But, as you have suggested, I will probably start by grinding the rust out (unfortunately I don't have a tool for it), then using some chemicals to clean the remains, possibly paint over it with some sort of coating and top it off with plastic or similar sheeting. I will also cover the edges with silicone so the water can't slip through.

 

[fotch]

Rather than grinding or sanding, which will also remove metal, you might want to try a chemical to remove it. Real strong tea will remove rust. It does take some time, perhaps several days. Maybe try some in a small part of it. Also, Simonize Polish and buffing may work. Again, try a small portion. There is also an electrical method using a battery charger. Never tried this myself. Good Luck

 

[AgX]

But I guess we all would like to know which material has been used. And what chemicals you had been using before you started any treatment.

I find it hard to tell from the photo. `Regular´ steel, Zink plated regular steel, Stainless steel?
(Stainless steel is available in different grades with different chemical resistance, but I don't expect such corrosion with any them.)

 

[Christopher Walrath]

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For that matter you could go so far as an acid etch primer once you have removed the rust. It is a primer so, and with any course of treatment, THOROUGHLY wash bare metal with hot and soapy water and rinse and dry. Use a hair dryer to help to ensure that. You need a clean substrate to ensure the effectiveness of whatever you decide.

 

[ricksplace]

After you remove the surface rust, treat the surface with "Rust-Mort", available in automotive parts stores. It is an acid (can't remember what type) that reacts with the remaining rust and turns it to a hard black compound that can be painted over. Auto body specialists use it regularily.

 

[bsdunek]

I would try a rust removing product called 'Navel Jelly'. It dissolves rust and is cleanable with water. As suggested above, I would then scrub really good with a wire brush in a drill motor (or by hand if necessary), being sure to get into the corners. Then, coat with a two-part epoxy paint following the manufacturers instructions. A thick coat is not good as it is not as flexible. Just a good even coat is best.

 

[AgX]

As a side note: products offered in North-America may not be available in Greece.
(I have not come across any of the brands mentioned above here in Germany. Though I know some rust reversal products. I made a real bad experience with one product combining a reversal agent within an aqueous varnish/primer.)

 

[Sirius Glass]

I would try a rust removing product called 'Navel Jelly'. It dissolves rust and is cleanable with water. As suggested above, I would then scrub really good with a wire brush in a drill motor (or by hand if necessary), being sure to get into the corners. Then, coat with a two-part epoxy paint following the manufacturers instructions. A thick coat is not good as it is not as flexible. Just a good even coat is best.

I believe it is "Naval Jelly" not "Navel Jelly". Most of us do not need our navels lubricated.

Steve

 

[Pete H]

I believe it is "Naval Jelly" not "Navel Jelly". Most of us do not need our navels lubricated.

Steve

Navel jelly sounds more fun!

 

[bsdunek]

I believe it is "Naval Jelly" not "Navel Jelly". Most of us do not need our navels lubricated.

Steve

I'm an enganeer and can't spel! I hold the spellchecker as the greatest invention of our time.
On the other hand, lubricating our navels might be OK.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I'm an enganeer and can't spel! I hold the spellchecker as the greatest invention of our time.
On the other hand, lubricating our navels might be OK.

People who could not write or spell correctly, myself included, go into engineering. The ability to spell correctly is an overrated skill for people with little minds.

Steve

 

[Christopher Walrath]

Wirelessly posted (BlackBerry9000/4.6.0.167 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/102 UP.Link/6.3.0.0.0)

Eye no wut u meen.

 

[sun of sand]

Heard of people using Oxalic acid for rust removal

 

[arigram]

You people are having a blast over my poor rusty basin.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

I believe it is "Naval Jelly" not "Navel Jelly". Most of us do not need our navels lubricated.

Steve

Naval Jelly wouldn't lubricate your navel anyway... more like corrode a hole straight through to your spine. It's very corrosive stuff. You need to handle it with thick rubber gloves.