I've been processing color film at home with some success. I'd modified an aquarium heater and could consistently get 100deg but it was a pain in the ass and took alot of time.
That "other medium" was stolen a few years ago....along with a gorgeous lens that was attached. I miss the lens. Need I say more?
Well, I also was reading all those gadget rich approaches, however having a kettle, water and a bathroom gave me happy result.
https://goo.gl/photos/wbnFvMao2Jew3zst9
Sorry, my condolences.
The big thing for me is I have a motor base. When given the choice of manually controlling water temp and standing around shaking film with sticking the drum on my base and walking away for 18 mins........ no contest....motor base wins.
Besides, the effects are not as severe as implied. The only "stay away" film is Ektar, which will give you the blue issues.
*I used tap water to really tick off the anally retentive.
OMG! SORRY. I was so eager to share that I forgot. I've got them on my flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/129276832@N08/36233058841/in/dateposted-public/Good way to start! Maybe you can post your scans before we go trying it.
I know that this is resurrecting a very old thread but I'd be surprised if the colors were correct with no crossover at all.I did it in room temp with a unicolor kit. Two rolls individually, Kodak gold 200 and ultramax pushed to 1600. They look pretty good scanned without any color correction. I don't see any color shift, or if it is there it is so minor as to be unnoticeable. Here was my process for those who want to try it.
1. Prewash:3 1/2 min*
2. Dev: 16-18 min more time=more contrast
Agitation for 1min then 10sec. every 2min
3. Blix: same time and agitation as development
4. Ilford wash 2x*
5. Stabilizer: 1min. agitation for the first 15sec.
*I used tap water to really tick off the anally retentive.
If you don't have the means to do 100F developing then I suppose what counts is the phrase "even noticeable" and more importantly how many individuals will notice. If most are unaware of the crossover then isn't it like the question: If a tree falls over in a forest many miles from human hearing, does it make a noise?If you develop at room temperature you WILL get crossover. Whether it is acceptable or even noticible depends on the individual.
I've been doing it for years..... But people have been telling me not to do things all my life.....and I am getting old.
I just did a stand dev on some expired bulk 160NC. I've been seeing how long I can use a kit before it is completely useless. I'm at 34 rolls.
In this last one I tried something different. I gave it a 1:100 rodinal stand for 10 min before going for the dev. It worked although there are some color shifts. However this film has always had color shifts so it's no big deal. I did notice a boost in speed though. I've been shooting at 80 and this method most definitely gave me a 1/2 - 3/4 stop gained. I'm going to try this with HC-110 next time.
This is also my position. I didn't mean no one should ever do anything except what's acceptable!My objective in posting in these types of threads is never to say "Don't do it!", but some always seem to get that idea. My goal is to FOREWARN that it works, but does not give proper results. This can be shown. But again, the acceptability of the results is up to the individual. What concerns me is those who say they do it and it works just fine, with NO WARNING that the results are not optimum. It would be sad for someone to develop their film based on this, only to find out later that their negatives have been compromised.
I advise, WARN, TEST and COMPARE. It is for the betterment of the photographic community.
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