Rolleiflex with broken meter?

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hughitb

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I know someone who is offering to sell me a Rolleiflex 2.8F Planar Type 2 at a price that is really good (going by that well-known Rolleiflex price guide on the web anyway). The only problem is that he says that meter does not work (there is a slight crack in it). It is, apparently, otherwise in good condition and working order. Two questions:

1. Can the meters on these things be fixed? If, for example, I sent it for a CLA is this something that can be rectified.

2. If not, does a non-functioning meter drastically affect the resale value of it?

I can live without a working meter since, as I understand, you are better off with a hand-held meter anyway with these sorts of cameras. But, I am not sure if a TLR is going to suit me (though I am anxious to try one out) and I therefore may want to sell it on if it doesn't, hence the resale value is an issue ....
 

Jeff L

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As far as I know anything on this camera can still be repaired, including the meter- which can be accurate too.
The USA has some great repair shop like Fleenor at Oceanside. He did my 3.5F and it's great.
There's a great guy in Germany too that did my very old Automat- Jurgen Kuschnik (.com?)
I'm sure there are good places in Dublin.
These are only people I have used and am happy with.
The 2.8F's are legendary- I'd love one.
Good luck,
Jeff
 

dpurdy

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The cracked cover can be replaced for not too much money but it won't make the meter work again. Does the meter needle move but the matchup needle not move? it is possible that the front cover of the camera was taken off and the meter not aligned correctly which would make it not work but easily fixable. Meters are replaceable and you could even buy a camera that has cosmetic or other problems with a working meter and put the meter in, but if it was me I wouldn't even care because I don't use that meter anyway. It will drop the value of the camera but that only matters if you are planning on selling it.
 
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hughitb

hughitb

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As far as I know anything on this camera can still be repaired, including the meter- which can be accurate too.

I'm sure there are good places in Dublin.

I wouldn't bank on it :smile: I know there is someone good in the UK that I could send it to though ... I'm getting excited now.
 
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hughitb

hughitb

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Does the meter needle move but the matchup needle not move?

Not sure because I haven't seen it yet. I can check that when I look at it ..

Thanks for the advice - both of you.

Anything else in particular I should look for when I go to check it out?
 

dpurdy

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The first thing I would do is make sure the dials move easily and then I would lock the shutter open in B with the lens wide open and open the back and look through the lens at a small light to see if there are scratches or haze. If the camera is cheap enough and the scratches are few and light it could still be a good deal.

Look to see that the front panel that holds the lenses (or seems to though it doesn't really) is lined up with the body of the camera.
 

ic-racer

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I had a 2.8F in the 80s with a non-functional meter. The photocell still worked but the meter galvometer coil was 'open circuit'. I searched high and low for a replacement or repair and wound up just selling the camera and getting another with a functional meter. There are spare 2.8E meters around because this was an option for the "E", but as you know these meters are not the same as the coupled "F" meter. So, my belief is that the supply of "F" meter movements has long vanished and no-one can repair them.

There is a chance the photocell could be bad and the meter movement still intact. In that case it potentially is repairable.

In terms of re-sale value, its probably worth what you are going to pay for it :wink:
 

Jeff L

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You should wind the lens out to the minimum focussing distance and see it the lens panel is wobbly or nice and secure. This can be a sign of the life the camera has had.
In my opinion, if you get a good deal on the camera then a complete service of the lens/shutter, and wind mechanism would be a good investment and make the camera reliable and enjoyable to use. They are smooth like only Rollei's are when they working like they should. I was looking at a 2.8F today at a camera fair. The guy wanted around $1000.00 CDN. Too much for it's condition. He had a Rollei Tele too- asking $1350.00 CDN, no takers.
 
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hughitb

hughitb

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Thanks for all the tips.

Update on this if anyone is interested. I have convinced myself that it is imperative that I take this camera into my possession as soon as possible.

However, there is another buyer who is "first in line". Other buyer keeps stalling the seller on coming to see the camera. Seller is so nice he is putting up with this and putting me off until the other buyer decides whether he wants it or not.

In the meantime I am going absolutely crazy. Anyone got any tips on how I can avoid going completely insane next time he rings me and says "Yeah, that fella didn't turn up last night, but he promised me he is going to come tomorrow so I'll tell you what I'll give you a ring then and we'll see where we are"?

:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
 

Nick Merritt

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I think it's imperative you possess it also! I think you might need to be a little firm with him: "Look, I am ready to pay you NOW -- the other fellow has had his chance!"

I hope you get the camera; you won't regret it. By the way, I bought a 3.5F about three years ago with a dead meter. The repairer (Krikor Marelian, krimarphoto.com) installed a new meter in the camera. So I believe these parts are still available if you want to replace it. And I think it is worth it -- yes, these are selenium meters and so have some limitations, but I've found mine to be pretty accurate. It's made by Gossen, so it's good quality.
 

wilsonneal

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When I've fallen in love with a camera (or a car, or a bass guitar) that I may have the chance to buy, it almost always doesn't turn out well...I'll pay too much, or settle for less on quality, because I've fallen in love and fear that 'another won't come along'. They always do. You're lucky because there are tons of Rolleiflexes out there and many people are selling film cameras cheaper than in the past. I would be a little patient and the right camera, probably with a working meter, will fall into your lap.

To the list of warnings and caveats, I'd add that you should look very closely, with a flashlight, for lens separation. It can be difficult to spot in dim light and I've bought a Rolleiflex with this condition without knowing it beforehand. Camera makes great images, but it's really slashed resale value.

Neal
 
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hughitb

hughitb

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When I've fallen in love with a camera (or a car, or a bass guitar) that I may have the chance to buy, it almost always doesn't turn out well...I'll pay too much, or settle for less on quality, because I've fallen in love and fear that 'another won't come along'. They always do. You're lucky because there are tons of Rolleiflexes out there and many people are selling film cameras cheaper than in the past. I would be a little patient and the right camera, probably with a working meter, will fall into your lap.

Yeah, good point. I also have this problem with guitars ....

To the list of warnings and caveats, I'd add that you should look very closely, with a flashlight, for lens separation. It can be difficult to spot in dim light and I've bought a Rolleiflex with this condition without knowing it beforehand. Camera makes great images, but it's really slashed resale value.

Neal

Could you elaborate on this lens separation? What is it? How do I spot it?
 

wilsonneal

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[/QUOTE]Could you elaborate on this lens separation? What is it? How do I spot it?[/QUOTE]
It looks like a tiny area or areas around the very edges of the taking lens. In mine, it's the shape of a half moon, about 1/8" wide, just at the edge, and it's sort of milky there. And, as it's on the edge, has no practical effect, but it could grow. It hasn't in the last 10 years, but could. Here's an image I borrowed from someplace on the net that shows an example. Mine's not nearly this bad. I bet this lens would still make good images. Dead Link Removed
 

ic-racer

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I think it's imperative you possess it also! I think you might need to be a little firm with him: "Look, I am ready to pay you NOW -- the other fellow has had his chance!"

I hope you get the camera; you won't regret it. By the way, I bought a 3.5F about three years ago with a dead meter. The repairer (Krikor Marelian, krimarphoto.com) installed a new meter in the camera. So I believe these parts are still available if you want to replace it. And I think it is worth it -- yes, these are selenium meters and so have some limitations, but I've found mine to be pretty accurate. It's made by Gossen, so it's good quality.

Thanks for posting this.
 
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hughitb

hughitb

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It is now mine! Got hold of it on Saturday at last ....

First impressions are that it is pretty good. Dials (particularly focus) all move smoothly though the shutter speed one get's a bit stiff when you turn it towards 1s, 2s etc. Minor dust marks etc on lens but I reckon nothing that won't come off with careful cleaning. Certainly no serious scratches, fungus or separation. Front elements line up perfectly with front of camera.

It's got the normal external wear and tear you would expect for something that is 40 years old but no serious dents or anything.

The meter needle does respond to light (the lower one). The one above it does not move. There is a big hole in the plastic casing for the meter.

One other slight problem is that the shutter release button is very stiff. I have to press it quite hard to get it to fire.

Anyway, I fully expected it to need some professional love and attention so I am now debating whether to send it over to that Fleenor guy in California. There is also someone called Brian Mickelboro in the UK that specialises in Rollei service. Anyone here used him?
 

ic-racer

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There is a big hole in the plastic casing for the meter.

?

I think new plastic covers with the clear part are available. I got a spare on off e-bay a while back.

Good luck with your camera!
 

Rolleiflexible

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To the list of warnings and caveats, I'd add that you should look very closely, with a flashlight, for lens separation. It can be difficult to spot in dim light and I've bought a Rolleiflex with this condition without knowing it beforehand. Camera makes great images, but it's really slashed resale value.

One of my Tele Rolleis has separation
around the entire lens -- I gather this
was not uncommon for the Tele with its
135mm Sonnar. I shoot it wide open all
the time, and I've yet to see any effect
caused by the separation. (I have another
Tele Rolleiflex without any separation, and
the two make indistinguishable images.)
 
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hughitb

hughitb

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So I emailed Harry Fleenor and got a very prompt and comprehensive response. He reckons the meter is unlikely to be repairable so I have to decide whether it is worth sending it to him to get the other stuff done ...

I am going ring the Krimar guy in Ney Jersey later ....
 

JPD

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The meter needle does respond to light (the lower one). The one above it does not move.
The pointer above the needle is supposed to move when you change the aperture or the shutter speed. You change the settings so the pointer matches the lower needle, and then the exposure should be correct (Assuming the lightmeter works and is correctly adjusted).

The meter on my 3,5F works perfectly, but I prefer to use my handheld Gossen Sixtomat Digital.
 

Ulrich Drolshagen

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hughitb

hughitb

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Good news. Brian Mickelboro in the UK will do the overhaul for a good price and he reckons he can probably fix the meter. If I get hold of a maxwell screen and send it to him he will also fit that for me.

Where do you order maxwell screems from?

Oh yeah, I shot a roll of film through it and processed it yesterday. The pictures that came out well look awesome. What a lens ....
 

Nick Merritt

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It doesn't sound like the meter is in need of repair, if the lower needle is responding to light and the reading seems accurate. Getting a replacement clear cover for the readout isn't a big deal.
 
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