120 film is 4.5 mil thick for Kodak and Ilford fims, 3.5 mil thick for Fuji.
Thats .0045 and .0035 inch.
Anything less than half of the film thickness will not be noticible on negatives exposed wide open.
Half of .0035 is .00175. If you have to remove that much material to get rid of the rust then you need new rails.
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y
Works on cameras too!
Rollei's tolerance for shutter/lens to film plane alignment is +/- .05mm, or +/- .002 inch about.
The film may be riding on the rail but the imaging area is not. So this is almost always of no significance.
He hinted at a concern about friction, not actual friction directly attributable to the rusted rails.The OP hinted at the heightened friction due to the rusty guides.
That's roughly half the film thickness.Rollei's tolerance for shutter/lens to film plane alignment is +/- .05mm, or +/- .002 inch about.
Alternatively... diamond lapping film. Many tool shops (real and online) have it in various grades that are faster and finer than most stones.Take a fine sharpening stone and lap the surface.
He hinted at a concern about friction, not actual friction directly attributable to the rusted rails.
Remember, film is not pushed against the rails. The film rides in a small gap between the rails and the pressure plate.
Odds are that the rollers are not moving smoothly. this is a far more typical cause of friction. And since the whole camera appears to be stiff and binding, until the wind system in toto is smoothed out, hard to say where any dragging may be coming from.
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