Rolleiflex help

jasonjoo · Dec 10, 2007

Alright guys, my Rolleiflex 3.5E has FINALLY come! Everything seems to be in excellent condition. The slower shutter speeds work, the lens looks fairly clean, etc (the viewfinder could be a bit brighter though, but perhaps that means I need a Maxwell screen ).

Well I do have an issue. Not sure if it's me not knowing how to use the camera or simply because the shutter count counter doesnt work.

Anyways, I loaded up the film, following the instruction manual. It says that I should turn the crank around 4-5 times before it locks into place, then rewind the crank until it hit's another stop.

Well, I put a fresh roll of 120 film in there and I kept turning the crank and it would not lock. I simply rolled up the entire roll of film! I wanted to make a few exposures, so I put in the film in again, rewound it, then put it back in yet again. I'm pretty sure I ruined the film (it's Ilford Delta 3200), but I want to resolve the shutter counter issue.

Am I doing something wrong?

As far as I know, I followed the instructions word for word. The film pressure plate was set for 6x6.

Thanks,

Jason

dpurdy · Dec 10, 2007

You have to thread the film UNDER the first roller. That puts the film between that roller and one that is harder to see underneath it. That allows the automatic film sensor to work and then your camera will know it has film in it. Common mistake.

If you did that and it still doesn't recognize the film is there then it is possible the auto roller is out of adjustment.

As far as I know there is no way to rewind 120 film except by hand in the dark since there is only tape at the beginning of the roll. If you do it backwards it should just jam up in your camera.

r-brian · Dec 10, 2007

I'm guessing you did not put the film between the bottom rollers. The rollers sense the thickness of the film and backing paper and sets the camera for the first frame. If you put the film over the rollers, than it just runs straight through.

dpurdy · Dec 10, 2007

Congratulations by the way on getting a really great camera. Hopefully the start of a life long love affair. The E is a great model. And the 3.5 75mm lens is very good regardless whether you got the Zeiss Planar or the Schneider Xenotar or 5 elements or 6. I hope you got a lens shade and an awful lot of great photos have been taken without the aid of a Maxwell screen.
Dennis

jasonjoo · Dec 10, 2007

Thanks for the quick replies, but could you explain things a bit more step by step? I am a total newbie!

By the first roller, do you mean the roller that is closest to the WLF? So I should wrap the film UNDER this roller once and then place it into the slot that is IN the roller?

jasonjoo · Dec 10, 2007

Ahh nevemind, I see what you mean by the roller. So basically I just need to thread the film through this first roller?

I wish I had another roll of film to experiment with, but I don't.

I'll be going to Yosemite this Monday, so hopefully I'll be able to put a roll through over the weekend and make sure the focus is working. Otherwise, I'll just have to wing it!

Thanks,

Jason

eddym · Dec 10, 2007

jasonjoo said:
I wish I had another roll of film to experiment with, but I don't.

What happened to your first roll? Since it's ruined already, just rewind it onto another spool and try another dry run. Then when you're sure you've "got it," you can get more film and really begin to enjoy that TLR!

jasonjoo · Dec 10, 2007

Hey Eddy, I did exactly that as I explained (terribly, sorry) above but the film actually jammed, so I had to pull it out. I'll buy another roll after my exams are through!

Toffle · Dec 10, 2007

jasonjoo said:
Hey Eddy, I did exactly that as I explained (terribly, sorry) above but the film actually jammed, so I had to pull it out. I'll buy another roll after my exams are through!

The good news is you now have a practice film to run through your Rollei a few times so that you have all your mistakes behind you before you head out to Yosemite.

[edit] I just realized my reply is essentially what Eddy just said. I should read more carefully. :rolleyes:
Cheers,

dpurdy · Dec 10, 2007

You have to re roll the film by hand and tuck the film in when you come to it. I do it in the dark all the time and you can then re shoot it.

jasonjoo · Dec 10, 2007

Darn, I wound it up in the camera, and put the film back through again but got jammed. I literally could not turn the crank, so instead of forcing it, I just pulled the film out.

For my first observations, the Rolleiflex is a very sturdy camera. It's a little larger than I thought, but still very cool looking. The viewfinder is VERY dim however. I can see myself getting a Maxwell screen very soon. I have no idea how to use the light meter, but I don't plan on learning how either. Seems confusing. My light meter should be here tomorrow, so that solves that issue.

So far, so good. This camera is going to be fun.

Oh, it's very difficult for me to get used to how everything is BACKWARDS!

jslabovitz · Dec 11, 2007

Try the manual

Don't feel bad. I had the same loading problems you did when I first got the camera. (And sometimes I still forget.)

So, here's the manual! (In several different formats.)

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/rollei/rolleiflex_35-28/rolleiflex_35-28_splash.htm
http://www.dmakos.com/square/manual/rolleitlr/index.html

--John

David H. Bebbington · Dec 11, 2007

The dim viewfinder is most likely due to a tarnished mirror, which it may be possible to clean or re-silver, or even replace, for less money than a 3rd-party bright screen.

Regards,

David

jasonjoo · Dec 11, 2007

Thanks David. Would cleaning the mirror or having it re-silvered fall under the CLA category? I won't be able to send in the camera for a CLA/check up just yet. I'm planning to take it with me to Yosemite in the next few days. Hopefully I'll be able to make do with it for the time being, but the viewfinder is pretty dim. For the most part, only the center is useable and the corners are very dark.

David, do you know where I can get the mirror re-silvered or of a place that can replace it for me? Coupled with a 3rd party bright screen, would this really brighten up the mirror? The $150-180 dollar price tag for the screen is a bit high, but I'd see it as a good investment (I shoot indoors often).

Thanks,

Jason

David H. Bebbington · Dec 11, 2007

jasonjoo said:
Thanks David. Would cleaning the mirror or having it re-silvered fall under the CLA category? I won't be able to send in the camera for a CLA/check up just yet. I'm planning to take it with me to Yosemite in the next few days. Hopefully I'll be able to make do with it for the time being, but the viewfinder is pretty dim. For the most part, only the center is useable and the corners are very dark.

David, do you know where I can get the mirror re-silvered or of a place that can replace it for me? Coupled with a 3rd party bright screen, would this really brighten up the mirror? The $150-180 dollar price tag for the screen is a bit high, but I'd see it as a good investment (I shoot indoors often).

Thanks,

Jason

Hi Jason,

No, A CLA would not normally include work on the mirror, although most technicians would I am sure clean the mirror if they thought it necessary. I do of course know good repair places - being in the UK, I naturally have my cameras repaired here (by Newton Ellis & Co. of Liverpool). You can find this company on the web if necessary, but I am sure there are good places in the US as well (they have been mentioned in past threads, you might even find an address by searching these). Without seeing the camera, it is hard to say what is causing the dim focusing image, although I know from experience that viewfinder brightness can deteriorate drastically over time - however, it should be more than acceptable with a good mirror and standard screen, unless you are doing work in dim lght, such as theater photorgraphy.

Regards,

David

keeds · Dec 11, 2007

Will second Newton Ellis & Co. They CLA'd a Rolleicord for me which had very wrong slow shutter speeds. Did a great job.

Jack Lusted · Dec 11, 2007

Will third Newton Ellis & co. Had long standing problems with a Rolleiflex F which had been in and out with a local repairer. Newton Ellis got the job done and it's been fine ever since

Jack

matti · Dec 11, 2007

I will just add to this thread instead of making another one.
I also just bought a Rolleiflex 3,5 E Planar, picked it up yesterday. And I must say that it feels really good and has some really neat features that my old T:s doesn't have.

My first T broke when I dropped it (the new E has a case...) and for some reason I didn't really like my second T. It is something with the unsharp areas of the tessar lens that I don't like. It seems like the background is built up of small circles in some subjects instead of unsharp shades of grey when using some other lenses wide open. I have read people stating that tessars give good bokeh but that is not true on my second Rolleiflex T. I do hope the new Planar is better in rendering the unsharpness as I like it. I also think the tessar is a bit unsharp at large apertures but that is easier to live with.

I also must say that I am a bit impressed with the cool features of my new E: A light meeter (working!) A really cool dof-scale. Selectable coupling of the aperture/time. A much better lock for the trigger. The sports finder with upside down focusing. Also, I find the split screen better than just a ground glass for focussing.

/matti

Allan Swindles · Dec 11, 2007

Must add a comment in favour of Newton Ellis, Liverpool. Just got my Rolleiflex 3.5F back after it had a slight altercation with a paving slab resulting in injuries to the shutter/interlock/transport mechanism and a nasty dent to the cameraback base. Camera is now as good as new and scars have healed well.
Jason, take a look:- www.newtonellis.co.uk.

Regards - Allan.

jasonjoo · Dec 11, 2007

Wow, lots of recommendations for Newton Ellis! Sadly, I'm located in the US. I'm sure the shipping fees would be atrocious

Allan Swindles · Dec 11, 2007

Maybe Jason but might be worth an email.

BrianShaw · Dec 12, 2007

jasonjoo said:
Wow, lots of recommendations for Newton Ellis! Sadly, I'm located in the US. I'm sure the shipping fees would be atrocious

I've had great experience with the folks at Pro Camera Service in Thousand Oaks, CA for repair of my Rollei. They have factory trained techs, for whatever that is worth. Others recommend Harry Fleenor at Oceanside Camera Repair in Redondo Beach, or Manhattan Beach. Harry has a great reputation but his price was higher and turnaround time longer, so I never used his services. Both can be found on the web.

jasonjoo · Dec 12, 2007

Thanks Brian. It's good to know that I have other options. Did you get a CLA by Pro Camera Service? Harry's "overhaul" description seems quite thorough (a good thing). He makes me wonder how other shops will "CLA" my Rolleiflex.

dpurdy · Dec 12, 2007

Harry Fleenor is great but you are looking at maybe 3 months turnaround
A lot of people go to this place:

http://www.krimarphoto.com/

Rollei trained and accredited and very very fast.

BrianShaw · Dec 12, 2007

jasonjoo said:
Did you get a CLA by Pro Camera Service?

Yes, they did an overhaul of the shutter and body. That was about 20 years ago and the camera has been running like a Swiss watch ever since. I was quite pleased with their work.

Rolleiflex help

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