Rolleiflex Aperture dial.

Agawa Canyon

A
Agawa Canyon

  • 2
  • 2
  • 48
Spin-in-in-in

D
Spin-in-in-in

  • 0
  • 0
  • 32
Frank Dean,  Blacksmith

A
Frank Dean, Blacksmith

  • 13
  • 8
  • 227
Woman wearing shades.

Woman wearing shades.

  • 1
  • 1
  • 154

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
198,860
Messages
2,782,081
Members
99,733
Latest member
dlevans59
Recent bookmarks
0

Toffle

Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2007
Messages
1,930
Location
Point Pelee,
Format
Multi Format
I just took delivery of a Rolleiflex 3.5f. It feels like a very solid piece of engineering. My first roll of negatives look very very nice. The aperture dial does not seem engage all the time, though. It usually responds after I set the time of the exposure. Is this some feature of this camera that I was unaware of, or is it an issue I should discuss with the seller? (or Harry?):smile:

Cheers
 

dpurdy

Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2006
Messages
2,673
Location
Portland OR
Format
8x10 Format
That doesn't sound right. If you take the front plate off the camera for some reason, which is easy to do, it is very easy to missalign the control interfacings when you put it back together. This might be what happened. It isn't serious but sending it in to someone involves time and shipping fees and cla fees. Gets pretty spendy. If you got the camera cheap and it seems really good otherwise and the lenses are like new and it tests out sharp at all fstops and distances, then the best thing to do is probably have it repaired. If it has any other problems then you might consider finding a different one.

If you know anyone who has any exerience taking rolleis apart at all, they might be able to fix it quickly for you.
Dennis
 
OP
OP
Toffle

Toffle

Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2007
Messages
1,930
Location
Point Pelee,
Format
Multi Format
Thanks Dennis. I won't be taking it apart myself, that's for sure. I think that I'll take it in to a local shop. I just got this camera and I'd like to play around with it a bit before I take it in, though.

Is it possible that there is a gear or linkage that is worn or stripped?

By the way, as far as I can tell from my first roll, the meter is dead on, and as I said, the negatives look really nice. The lenses are clean and scratch/fungus free, aperture blades are clean and focusing is smooth. The main mirror needs a couple of puffs of air, though, so a general CLA might be in order. It's in good enough shape that some repairs shouldn't be throwing good money away after bad.

Thanks again,
 

dpurdy

Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2006
Messages
2,673
Location
Portland OR
Format
8x10 Format
For me if I get an old Rollei in my hands that has perfect lenses I hate to let go of it. I am not that knowledgeable about the inner workings to know the likelihood of gears being stripped. I would think it would take a powerful force to strip metal teeth off the gear.

I have had the gaul to take the front off a couple of Rolleis, a new FX and a 2.8F. In both cases I got them put back together wrong. In both cases I got some controls missaligned. I was able to re take apart the FX and get it together right.. zen and the art of camera repair. I thought i got the 2.8F done right but come to find the meter is now not connected. I could probably take it back apart and figure it out but i don't use the meter anyway so I will let it go that way for now.

Taking the front off makes cleaning the lenses inside and out very easy. That is why I did it. It makes it obvious how easy it would be to swap lenses from camera to camera as well as a host of other parts.

I would think any camera repair place with people experienced in that sort of thing could figure out the linkage problem.

congrats on getting a great camera. I hope it works out for you.
Dennis
 
OP
OP
Toffle

Toffle

Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2007
Messages
1,930
Location
Point Pelee,
Format
Multi Format
Further on this topic. I discovered the following posts the archives of the Rollei Discussion List / Rollei Users Group. (regular contributor, Bob Shell)

I mention this because it appears to refer to my model of the 3.5f, but I am kind of unsure. I know it's a long read, but if anyone can verify this information, I would greatly appreciate it.

A first series of 3.5F (#2.200.000 to 2.204.999 supposedly) was produced
with EVS interlock, if your's is one of these, there will be chrome thingies
under the dials that you can push in to detach the interlock. But in any case
the interlock should function in such a way, that when you change the aperture,
the shutter will follow and vice versa.
...
The 1st series of 3.5 F
(2,200,000-2,219,999) had, in fact, a modified EVS lock under the f-stop
wheel.

To effect this shutter in 1958, Compur developed a third ring between the
upper shutter speed ring and the lower aperture ring. The effect of this
was if the shutter speed ring was turned towards slower speeds and the
aperture ring towards smaller apertures, the EV setting would be retained.
Any separate movement of either the shutter ring or the aperture ring would
cause the meter needle to deflect through a complex linkage.

Due to the enlargement of the shutter (the gears ran on the outside of the
shutter proper) the taking/viewing lens distance was increased to 45 mm
from 42 mm as in the 2.8 models. Since nobody at Rollei had been able to
gather experience with the mechanical coupling of shutter and meter follow
pointer, the EV coupling of the previous models was essentially retained in
the coupled meter of the first model of the 3.5 F. However, after 20,000
cameras, the EV part of the meter coupling system had to be abandoned as
seemed to make the shutter and aperture wheels rather stiff to operate.

The second version of the 3.5 F (2,230,000-2,241,500) was developed which
again had the same shutter, but no EV control. Still a certain stiffness
was found in the wheels, due to the additional gear transmissions and the
large friction diameter of the three rings at the shutter proper. After
11,500 cameras, this version was abandoned.

With high demand for a 2.8 F version with coupled meter, the Rollei
engineers were spurred to find a solution for the 3.5 F that they could
apply to the 2.8 F. The Rollei engineers developed a small bevel gear
differential which reduced the high torque of of the control dials of the
previous models and was a solution they could apply to the 2.8 F. It also
rid the shutter of the planetary gears that caused such a high amount of
friction on the first two models of the 3.5 F and thus they could use a
"normal" Compur shutters on both 3.5 F and 2.8 F size. The reason the 2.8 F
came after the 3.5 F was that Compur did not supply the previous shutter
(the one with the external planetary gears) in a size for the 2.8 F.

The third version of the 3.5 F used the differential gear system and along
with the 2.8 F remained essentially unchanged for about 200,000 cameras,
from 1960 to 1981.


Now, my 3.f, ser. 2200612 seems to fall into the category of Rolleis with the EVS coupling, but doesn't have any "thingies" under the dials. It does have a small amount of spring-loaded play in the aperture dial, which when I depress it adjusts the aperture independently of the shutter speed. With this method the aperture dial always engages. (see original post) Without depressing the dial, it often fails to "catch" and just spins.

So, to return to the earlier question, is this an undocumented feature of this camera or is it a misalignment problem that need to be addressed?

I apologize for the long post. I hope some of the more experienced Rollei users may have some information on this issue.

Cheers,
 

dpurdy

Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2006
Messages
2,673
Location
Portland OR
Format
8x10 Format
I am afraid I don't know anything about that. I have had a couple of old 3.5Fs and neither of them worked any differently from my much newer 2.8F. The dials worked independently of each other unless you were down in the green zone on the shutter speed. Then it seems on one camera or another (I can't remember for sure) turning the shutter dial would also turn the aperture dial and I could never figure out why it did that.

If nothing is rattling around in your camera and you can get it to work for you by following some procedure then I wouldn't worry too much about it and it can be put back to right (if it is wrong) when you need to send it in for a CLA or when you have time and money set aside for that.
 
OP
OP
Toffle

Toffle

Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2007
Messages
1,930
Location
Point Pelee,
Format
Multi Format
If nothing is rattling around in your camera and you can get it to work for you by following some procedure then I wouldn't worry too much about it and it can be put back to right (if it is wrong) when you need to send it in for a CLA or when you have time and money set aside for that.

Thanks Dennis. This is pretty much my plan. The camera's functions work well enough for me at this time, and the negatives are certainly acceptable. (I've got to take some time for printing this week.) I suspect that the aperture dial is not quite in sync with the linkage to the shutter speed dial, hence the sporadic function. Unless it shuts down completely, I'm going to use if for awhile so I can get used to working with it.

Thanks again, and if anyone has any additional opinions, I'd be happy to hear them.

Cheers,
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom