[Rolleiflex 6008] Image coverage?

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hankchinaski

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Is the image coverage 100% on the 6008? It's obvious that the different finders cover everything is shown on the focusing screen, but is the image on the focusing screen 100% to begin with?
 

ic-racer

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Last I checked, when printing, on 11x14 paper (9x9" image) there was about 2cm overlap of the image on the bades which was just about right.

To do the test, I photographed a dry-erase board, in which I had traced around the viewfinder image. Then I put the negative in the enlarger and set the image of the traced line just at the edge of the blades. Then you can see how much overlap. Most cameras I have checked (except Nikon 35mm) provide enough extra image to get a clean border without cutting anything out.
 
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hankchinaski

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Last I checked, when printing, on 11x14 paper (9x9" image) there was about 2cm overlap of the image on the bades which was just about right.

To do the test, I photographed a dry-erase board, in which I had traced around the viewfinder image. Then I put the negative in the enlarger and set the image of the traced line just at the edge of the blades. Then you can see how much overlap. Most cameras I have checked (except Nikon 35mm) provide enough extra image to get a clean border without cutting anything out.

Sorry I don’t understand, usually finders are less than or equal to 100%, so in your case you would photograph a target where the borders of the target touch exactly the borders of the image on the finder and then develop the film and look at the image on film.

If the finder is 100% then the edges of the frame of the film would show the borders of the image, if the finder is less than 100% then the borders of the image would be cut.

In the drawing, I would look at the target image through the finder (dotted line) and then I would either get the whole image or less than the whole image. Which case are you talking about?


1EA6AA90-0243-4299-BB63-236BB22CCA61.png
 

Pieter12

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As far as I can tell without shooting a ruler or grid, the WLF shows 100% of the negative area. And unless you print with a filed-out 2-1/4 or 4x5 glass carrier, you are not going to be able to print 100% of the negative anyway. Slide mounts will cover some of the image, too. I have no idea if scanners cover the entire negative, I don't mess with that stuff. As an added note, the 45º prism finder not only shows the entire image area, it magnifies it by 2.5x.
 
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hankchinaski

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As far as I can tell without shooting a ruler or grid, the WLF shows 100% of the negative area. And unless you print with a filed-out 2-1/4 or 4x5 glass carrier, you are not going to be able to print 100% of the negative anyway. Slide mounts will cover some of the image, too. I have no idea if scanners cover the entire negative, I don't mess with that stuff. As an added note, the 45º prism finder not only shows the entire image area, it magnifies it by 2.5x.

Thank you.

Nowadays scanning consists in taking a photo of the negative with a digital camera, so you can choose exactly how much of the frame you want to have.
 

Pieter12

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Thank you.

Nowadays scanning consists in taking a photo of the negative with a digital camera, so you can choose exactly how much of the frame you want to have.
I am under the impression one uses some sort of negative carrier to hold the negative flat. That might entail obscuring part of the image, just like in an enlarger.
 
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hankchinaski

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I am under the impression one uses some sort of negative carrier to hold the negative flat. That might entail obscuring part of the image, just like in an enlarger.

Yes and no, it depends on the holder. Many people 3d print their own holder etc.

 

ic-racer

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I guess to put it another way, the amount the focus screen crops the image is about the same that needs to be cropped to make smooth borders on the print; either by cutting the print when dry mounting (as Ansel Adams describes in The Print) or by the blades of the easel,
 
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hankchinaski

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I guess to put it another way, the amount the focus screen crops the image is about the same that needs to be cropped to make smooth borders on the print; either by cutting the print when dry mounting (as Ansel Adams describes in The Print) or by the blades of the easel,

So it’s like 98% I suppose, meaning, if you would frame a ruler where the left edge of the focusing screen is on the 0mm mark and the right edge on the 100mm mark, then the image on film would start at 1mm mark and end at the 99mm mark?
 

ic-racer

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So it’s like 98% I suppose, meaning, if you would frame a ruler where the left edge of the focusing screen is on the 0mm mark and the right edge on the 100mm mark, then the image on film would start at 1mm mark and end at the 99mm mark?

Seems about right. Probably not much of an issue for you if you are printing full frame (like your example). Just think of all the Leica rangefinder/viewfinder users that print full frame and how far off that is :smile:

I had a thread a while back on the merits of printing full frame with a black border vs cropping to a smooth white border. One advantage of slight cropping for a smooth white print border is, for most cameras, the image when will match what the viewfinder shows.

Some disadvantages of the full frame are that the frame of the camera may not be square! Also, at wide apertures, the border may be not sharp. On at least one of my Rolleiflexes bright light makes specular reflections off the shiny rollers that can reflect back to the image area.
 
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Pieter12

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So it’s like 98% I suppose, meaning, if you would frame a ruler where the left edge of the focusing screen is on the 0mm mark and the right edge on the 100mm mark, then the image on film would start at 1mm mark and end at the 99mm mark?

Why don't you make a grid or use a couple of rulers to check it out. It's only a frame of film.
 

ic-racer

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When I was in graduate school I thought about this too much and actually projected the negative with the outline drawn on the dry-erase board and recorded the exact enlarger head position and exact position of the blades of the print easel so that all my print contained EXACTLY the view from the focus screen to the millimeter.

I don't worry too much about that any more.
 
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