Rolleiflex 3.5e2 depth of focus indicator not working

[kingfresh]

Hello!
I took the shutter out of the camera. After I put it all together, I noticed the black part of the depth of field indicator was gone. It's all just white now. Can anyone tell me where I went wrong and how I should fixed it? Do I need to open the camera from the side or do I go in from the front?

 

[kingfresh]

Ah, nevermind! I figured it out. I screwed up when putting on the faceplate

 

[Huss]

Check the faceplate. You may have screwed something up when you put it back on.

 

[John Koehrer]

^^^^^^lol

 

[choiliefan]

Have you checked the faceplate yet?

 

[wiltw]

Kinda meaningless indicator, anyhow, as 'manufacturer standard' DOF assumes that viewer has far poorer vision than 20/20 standard that our optometrists strive to achieve when correcting our vision!

 

[Down Under]

Hyperfocal distance shooting lets you "preset" the distance at a pre-determined setting based on the f/stop you are using, and then just shoot, forgetting about the distance/s. Best used for fairly predictable (distance-wise) work like landscapes where critical focusing may not be necessary.

Broken down into simpler terms, this means you set your lens at (say) f/8, f/11 or f/16 (or an intermediate stop - with EI 100 films, I tend to use approximately f/12.5 a lot, which would be a tad beyond the f/11 setting) and then put your distance setting on the focusing wheel between the two f8, f/11 or f/16 or aforementioned intermediate stop), depending on what f/stop you are using. Say f/11 - I put the infinity '8' mark on the '11' mark on the focusing indicator (it's on the camera body just above the focusing wheel), and everything between the two f/11s will then be reasonably sharp. Easier done than explained. Try it and see.

Sorry if I've confused everyone with this. Definitely more Tasmanian Pinot is called for!

 

[wiltw]

Hyperfocal distance shooting lets you "preset" the distance at a pre-determined setting based on the f/stop you are using, and then just shoot, forgetting about the distance/s. Best used for fairly predictable (distance-wise) work like landscapes where critical focusing may not be necessary.

Broken down into simpler terms, this means you set your lens at (say) f/8, f/11 or f/16 (or an intermediate stop - with EI 100 films, I tend to use approximately f/12.5 a lot, which would be a tad beyond the f/11 setting) and then put your distance setting on the focusing wheel between the two f8, f/11 or f/16 or aforementioned intermediate stop), depending on what f/stop you are using. Say f/11 - I put the infinity '8' mark on the '11' mark on the focusing indicator (it's on the camera body just above the focusing wheel), and everything between the two f/11s will then be reasonably sharp. Easier done than explained. Try it and see.

Sorry if I've confused everyone with this. Definitely more Tasmanian Pinot is called for!

Assuming 80mm medium format 'normal' set to f/11,

• Hyperfocal is supposedly 30' away, and DOF zone at f/11 is 15' - 1437'...but that assumes rather poor human vision of 'manufacturer standard'!
• But for a viewer with 20/20 vision, at f/11 the hyperfocal distance is 91' and DOF for 20/20 vision is actually 45' - 13898'.

So much for the 'value' of DOF Scale and Hyperfocal distance...you focus too close and assume that things closer will be 'in focus' when in fact they are blurred!
If instead had used f/5.6 on the DOF scale, and focused at 80', you would have an indicated 'manufacturer standard' DOF zone of 34' - Infinity which happens to be close to the 20/20 true DOF scale for f/11.

 

[piu58]

> If instead had used f/5.6 on the DOF scale
If I use such a scale that is what I usual do: Looking at the values two stops more open.