Rolleiflex 2.8F with Zeiss bumps! Also lube advice?

[Knjy]

I recently serviced a 1960 Rollei 2.8 F that had a gummy shutter and self timer. There was evidence of previous services in the form of marks on the screws and the leather having differing glue and turned up corners. Red grease was still on the differential gear.
I thought I would take a look inside the advance and shutter-wind mechanism and so opened up the side panel. To my surprise there were no marks on the screw heads, no evidence of work done and Zeiss bumps under the leather. These bumps were apparent when closed and I assumed were just prominent screw heads. The characteristic waxy deposit was there suggesting that the adhesive on the leather was the same as that used by Zeiss in the early to mid 50's. I wondered if this was common and who else had discovered this? it cleaned up easily and the leather sits neatly flat on the camera.

The inside revealed a wind-on mechanism in spotless condition, no evident wear and red grease on just a few sliding levers and their respective pinions. I removed this and re-greased with a modern synthetic lubricant, leaving the majority of the gears and components dry. I'm not sure this is correct as I do not have a lube chart to guide me. There was, and still is, a faint squeak when advancing film which I think is caused by the shutter cocking flange and/or the linkage from the advance. On the basis that 'noise is wear' I would like any advice you may have to offer regarding what should have lubricant in these two mechanisms - advance and shutter linkages.

Any help gratefully received.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

If the parts have slow relative motion and the point(s) of contact carry any appreciable load, a very light synthetic grease. Otherwise a light oil. Applying fresh lube without cleaning thoroughly is just pointless and can do more harm than good.
Zeiss bumps are caused by chemicals in the leather reacting with copper based alloys, not the adhesive used to mount the leather. A knife with a brass hilt in a leather sheath will show verdigris on the brass in the same manner. Shellac was a common adhesive used and can be softened with denatured alcohol and patience. Cover the brass screws or rivets with nail lacquer and a small piece of aluminum foil.

 

[Knjy]

(there was a url link here which no longer exists) - Nice advice! Many thanks for the reply and good to understand about the bumps. I found a lube chart for the Rollei Synchro-Compur in a Compur manual - page 231 of 262!. The lube recommendations are consistent with your guidance and minimal to say the least. I'm glad I didn't proceed until I got some input. The inside of this camera is as beautiful as the outside.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

(there was a url link here which no longer exists) - Nice advice! Many thanks for the reply and good to understand about the bumps. I found a lube chart for the Rollei Synchro-Compur in a Compur manual - page 231 of 262!. The lube recommendations are consistent with your guidance and minimal to say the least. I'm glad I didn't proceed until I got some input. The inside of this camera is as beautiful as the outside.

This is important. More is not better - in fact it will lead to problems. The reason cleaning the parts in so important is that the old lubricants spread out and oxidise, leaving a film that will make the fresh lubricant creep away from where it belongs as well as contaminate it. Excessive lubricant does the same thing, that is creep. I apply oils with a watchmaker's oiler and an 8x loupe, this should give you an idea just how little is really required. You can make your own oiler out of fine wire, about 26 AWG. Simply flatten the very end of the wire, dip just the end in the oil - the flat will retain a tiny bead of oil and you can then apply it. Less is more.

As for the Zeiss bumps, I have a Zeiss Ikon camera from 1936 with a bunch of them, it's a well known feature of other makes too.

 

[Ulrich Drolshagen]

There was, and still is, a faint squeak when advancing film

I have two Fs which were both serviced by the most experienced service guys in Germany. And both cameras have this sound while advancing film occasionally. I've been told that is is caused by the silvery rollers guiding the film. As these can not be lubed, we will have to live with it as it seems.

 

[Robert Vigurs]

I cleaned and lubed my 3.5f whiteface a few years back and it worked very well. Shutter had been jammed. I recently bought a 2.8C with pristine glass. Just perfect. My favorite lens, Xenotar. I am so busy now, I sent it to Harry Fleenor.
Talked with him on the phone Monday. He checked the lens with a collimator, while on the phone, and told me it would be like new when I got it back. The coatings on these must be treated gently to be kept as nice as this one is. I believe it must have been used very little in its' life. Do look forward to receiving it. 8 weeks. Harry seems like a very nice man. Complete shutter disassembly, polish blades etc, $134 plus $39 parts. Film transport servicing $134.

 

[Knjy]

Good input from all these posts, much appreciated. Harry Fleanor seems reasonable and gets good recommendations generally.
i saw a post today that says Rollei have finished manufacturing and are selling of the tooling and remaining parts. I cannot say I was saving up for a 2.8gx but mourn the loss anyway. It was a triumph to come back and try again when they did and address a market that must have been shrinking, that took some courage.