Hi Dan, yes, it’s working. On the widest f2.8 aperture, the distance between two black stripes is around 5-6mm and at the f22 is all the way on the sides.Is the depth of field indicator around the inside of the focus knob working?
Yes. I often rely on this meter when shooting, so I know the meter is working properly.And the meter itself is registering changes in shutter and aperture?
Yes it does.And to be paranoid, look at the lens from the back and make certain that the aperture is actually opening and closing.
Yes, it seems that it’s always the aperture pulling to the left, like you said f11 to f16.Especially the meter coupling is a fairly stable lever system. Meaning that there aren't springs designed to pull it to one end or other of its travel if not connected. The depth of field indicator has light springs to pull it to the biggest width (f/22 aperture) but the leverage connecting it to the aperture dial should keep it still.
Is the motion always the aperture and always in one direction (to a smaller aperture, e.g. f/11 to f/16)?
I guess there’s nothing I can do (with my very limited, or non-existing knowledge of camera repairing?All in all, I wouldn't consider it normal for the aperture and/or shutter speeds to move on their own.
So you also mentioned the shutter speed moving? I can understand the aperture moving theoretically, but the shutter speed moving means a lot of very smooth and low-friction transfer of very light spring force.
If both move, does the meter reading stay the same? The needle doesn't move. It moves from f/11 to f/16, and the shutter speed moves one stop in the opposite- say, 1/30 to 1/15? Maintains the same EV?
What I will say is this shouldn't happen. And that you should probably not try to fix it yourself.
So you also mentioned the shutter speed moving? I can understand the aperture moving theoretically, but the shutter speed moving means a lot of very smooth and low-friction transfer of very light spring force.
If both move, does the meter reading stay the same? The needle doesn't move. It moves from f/11 to f/16, and the shutter speed moves one stop in the opposite- say, 1/30 to 1/15? Maintains the same EV?
What I will say is this shouldn't happen. And that you should probably not try to fix it yourself.
The 2.8F I own is going on a waiting list soon.
Our local expert is apparently a busy man.
I don't want to risk damaging such a fine machine.
The wrong machine to learn on.
Good Luck with it !
When I had a problem with the focus, I contacted every Rolleiflex expert in the US that I can found online, and asked about wait times, and it was months in each case. I was seriously considering buying a new working camera and later selling this one as-is. Then, next day, I went to the local camera store to buy some film, and complained about the focus issue, and they told me they have a guy that repairs Rolleiflexes and can probably do it much quicker. I was reluctant at first, but I wanted the camera asap, and it's a reputable shop, so I gave it a try. I got it back in less than a week. I tested it the same day and it works perfectly.
The thing is that most any long-term repair shop that dealt with film cameras can deal with Rolleiflexes. If you wanted to stay in business, you worked on Rolleiflexes because there were so many being used by professionals, etc. People can forget this in the age of internet star repairmen, etc. Not to denigrate someone like Fleenor- he does great work and deserves his reputation. But despite the reputation, Rolleiflexes are not difficult cameras; they require attention and precision, but unlike many cameras (looking at you, YashicaMats), they were designed and built to be used, to be adjusted, and to be repaired as working tools.
I took my car to a guy in Vermont. He grew up outside in New Jersey, worked on high-end Italian sports cars. Moved to Vermont and realized quickly that he needed to learn Subarus if he wanted his garage to survive. A camera repair shop in 1970-80s who couldn't work on a Rolleiflex was not going to be around long.
I bet that your shop's guy will take care of this issue smoothly.
M. Zachs did a good CLA job For me in 2019. A friend who worked at Leitz in NJ did a repair on my 2.8F about 45-50 years ago. As with Leica rf cameras, they should be serviced every 30 years or so.
When i read about some of the so-called Rollei specialists and what they charge, I get the feeling that some flim flam is going on.
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