Want to Buy Rolleiflex 2.8e

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ohnewton35

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I just sold my Rolleiflex MX-EVS and now have sufficient funds to purchase a Rolleiflex 2.8e or f model. Most of my options on ebay include cameras with scratches or dents which isn't in my best interest for having this camera paired with my hasselblad as my 80mm selection. This is one of my dream cameras so I'm looking to have this one for a very long time if not till the day I die. I'd very much like it to have a working light meter. If you have one which you are willing to sell and negotiate a price I await your PM.
 

summicron1

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contact dealers like KEH and Blue Moon and ask them to keep an eye out for you. The 2.8 E is every bit as good as the F and about half the price. Unless you really really REALLY need a removable viewing hood and a cupla bells and whistles in the metering system (like telling you how long time exposures should be) the E is really the way to go.
 
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ohnewton35

ohnewton35

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contact dealers like KEH and Blue Moon and ask them to keep an eye out for you. The 2.8 E is every bit as good as the F and about half the price. Unless you really really REALLY need a removable viewing hood and a cupla bells and whistles in the metering system (like telling you how long time exposures should be) the E is really the way to go.

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Do not buy off eBay. As mentioned above buy from a reputable dealer or seller and get a good E, F are no better but priced a lot more. E also came in an E2 model that had the removable hood, I know, I have one. Important thing is get one in the best condition you can, either Xenotar or Planar. And do not eliminate the idea of a 3.5 if a great one came along. 3.5 are lighter and just as good. I rarely shoot my 2.8 Rolleiflexes completely wide open.

And later when you're really ready to knock your socks off save for a Tele-Rolleiflex. Amazing lens and terrific rendition.
 
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And forget looking for one with a working light meter. Most are way off or on their last legs. Even when working are often jittery and not so accurate. And if you find one that does have a working light meter the seller will likely charge more even though you'd be better off using a $10 GE PR-1 or heck even an iPhone light meter program.
 

TheFlyingCamera

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Ditto what Rich said about the meter in the E. A: it's most likely not working, and if it is working, the best it'll do is confirm Sunny 16, and B: you can get a much better hand-held meter for much less than the difference between an E or F with a working meter and one without. I've had good luck with the two 2.8E's I've bought off Ebay, but I bought low and budgeted for a complete overhaul.

Double ditto what Rich said about the Tele. That's another recent addition to my Rolleiflex stash and WOW. It's not the camera for everything, but what it's good for, it's REALLY good for.
 

dpurdy

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I have also had very good luck or experience buying off ebay. You just have to do all the research you can on the seller through his feedback and study the photos very closely and then communicate with the seller and get an idea of what sort of person you're dealing with.
 
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ohnewton35

ohnewton35

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I've found one in "working condition" on ebay from an antiques dealer. The lowest she intends to go is 500 of which I am willing to spend. I've been thoroughly turning this over in my head as to whether I should purchase or merely wait for a cheaper opportunity and as previously mentioned budget and overhaul
 

TheFlyingCamera

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I've found one in "working condition" on ebay from an antiques dealer. The lowest she intends to go is 500 of which I am willing to spend. I've been thoroughly turning this over in my head as to whether I should purchase or merely wait for a cheaper opportunity and as previously mentioned budget and overhaul

$500 is about as cheap as a 2.8E goes short of being a non-functional wreck. I've paid about that much give or take $100 for each of mine, and both have gotten a $350-ish overhaul. After the overhaul they've been nothing short of wonderful. But don't expect a good working Rolleiflex 2.8 for significantly cheaper than $800 all in. Unless you just get damn lucky.
 
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How does one correct some browning in leather on one of these?

By replacing the leather. That said some brown-edging I saw was often an indication of poor storage and perhaps mildew and, God forbid, having gotten dunked or excessively wet with rusting inside.
 
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Would you say that is the case if it is only on one of the knob around the edges

You can never tell without personally inspecting or buying from a known source preferably one who either just did or can document a recent CLA. Or at least would give some warranty or return privilege. I've had poor experiences on eBay, others report good luck there. I've bought very very cheap ($175 for a 2.8E Planar that worked but eventually needed serious and expensive work) and bought more expensively from very reliable sources. In the end the price was about the same with the latter much less frustrating.
 
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