Rolleiflex 2.8e questions: sticky shutter speed dial, number on dial??

[aca]

I got myself a Rolleiflex 2.8e camera and I am planning to shoot my first roll (to the supermarket and back #stayhome)

This camera hasn't been used for a while and I notice the aperture dial works smooth, but the shutter speed dial is very sticky ( I need to use some force when turning to slower shutter speeds).
- What kind of home tricks can I do to make the shutter speed dial a little smoother?
- I also see numbers (3-18) on top of the shutter speed dial, the pointer is set to 14. What does this pointer do and can I change the pointer setting???
[EDIT] I now see the pointer moves if I move the aperture dial......my guess this needs to correspond with the number on the lightmeter? But the highest number is 16 and not 18???
- The light meter doesn't seem to react as the black pointer doesn't move when I change the aperture

Any tips?
Stay safe, stay healthy
Cheeers







I am aware a CLA might get rid of a couple of problems, but I am not yet sure if I am keeping this one.


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[JPD]

Yes, a CLA will get rid of the stiffness. It's probably dried grease and dirt in the mechanism.

The camera has the Expouse Value System (EVS). On the apterture wheel you have a button in the center. When you line up the black lines on it with the half-moon shapes on the wheel it will interlock the aperture and shutter wheels. (When you press the button you can turn the aperture and shutter wheels separately). You take a reading with the lightmeter, and if it says "12" you press the button on the aperture wheel and change either the shutter speed or aperture so that the pointer on the shutter speed wheel points to "12". Let's say that the settings now are 1/60 and f:8, but you need a faster shutter speed. Then turn any of the wheels and the other one will follow because they are interlocked. So if you set the shutter speed to 250, the aperture will automatically set to f:4.

The lightmeter is an old selenium one, so maybe the readings are wrong. Many old selenium meters are dead. It's safer to use a good working accessory lighmeter or a lightmeter app on a phone.

Here is a manual for the camera: https://www.butkus.org/chinon/rollei/rolleiflex_28_e/rolleiflex_28e.htm

 

[JPD]

But the highest number is 16 and not 18???

Don't worry, it's just a value. EV 16 is already very bright, like if you shoot a 100 ISO film in a desert with strong sunlight. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_value

The lowest number marked on the camera is EV 3, which is 1 sec and f:2,8. You can of course go lower than that by using B. EV 18 is 1/500 and f:22. The shutter speed wheel is marked like that because those numbers are the lowest and highest settings possible (except for when using B) on the camera.

My handheld Gossen lightmeter can show Exposure Values, but I prefer to just set the shutter speed I want to use and read the suggested aperture.

The Rolleiflex 2,8 E is a very nice camera, and the Xenotar a great lens. It's worth getting used to it, and get a CLA when you can afford it.

 

[Huss]

If the shutter dial is stiff to turn, the camera may have seen impact to the front and things are out of whack.
Seen it before...

 

[shutterfinger]

The aperture and shutter speed dials are geared small wheels that you turn that engage larger geared wheels under the front cover that operate levers on the camera shutter. Dried lubricant is the most likely cause of the stiffness that may clear up some with repeated use. The face plate of the camera has to be removed to access the wheels.

If the face/front suffered impact damage there will be a dent or ding in it or the front standard will have an uneven gap between it and the camera body.