Rolleiflex 2.8C shutter and f-stop dials stiff

[Paul in Arizona]

I just bought an absolutely mint completely unblemished Xenotar 2.8C for what I think is a decent price -$600. I got it from a collector who likely didn't use it much at all.

Glass is clear; shutter seems OK; film advance is smooth; focus is smooth; even the self timer works.
My question is the dials for shutter speed and f-stop. These are somewhat stiff. Much stiffer than those on my 3.5 E2.
Is this a 'normal' condition for a C?

I sort of hope that a little exercise will loosen them up but the rational me says take it in for a CLA.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

You do know about having to hold down those little chrome tabs behind the shutter/aperture wheels in order to turn them, right? In my experience using a C, it was pretty stiff to turn the wheels in part because I had to press pretty hard to actuate the unlock buttons.

 

[Dan Daniel]

Yeah, work the silver tabs for a while before worrying about an overhaul. It is possible to both clean and to loosen the action of the knobs. But it's a lot of work for a small return. Wait until you decide to get the shutter cleaned or such?

Unless the camera is unusable, of course. But give it some time. It took me a bit to get used to the action of the tabs.

 

[Paul in Arizona]

Yes, the little silver tabs threw me for a while. I'll massage them to see if they loosen up.

'nother Q: It came with a strap that was long for hand carrying and a bit short as a neck strap.
Is there an adjustable neck strap that will work with the slot and pin arrangement? Maybe Optech?

 

[Dan Daniel]

'nother Q: It came with a strap that was long for hand carrying and a bit short as a neck strap.
Is there an adjustable neck strap that will work with the slot and pin arrangement? Maybe Optech?

I use the Op/tech 'Pro Loop' straps. It takes a little finesse, maybe pushing with a thin screwdriver, to get the loop material through the slot. But once through, they work great. The loop part drops away nicely from the hood when focusing. I also like that I can unclip the center section, clip the two end peices together, and have a wrist/safety strap- a nice way to work in a city at times.

I found that the Op/tech clips that work for Bronicas also fit the C tabs. But then the locking mechanism came undone on my a couple of times and I found myself holding a camera by one end only. That was enough.

If by any chance the strap you have is leather, DO NOT USE IT!!!! The odds are that it is dried out and will break on you. I lost a Rolleicord to an original strap and, well, never again. If you absolutely must use the original clip system, find a shoe or saddlery store and get a new strap made.

 

[BrianShaw]

Listen to your inner rationale. "Massaging" to loosen them up is not normal and expected. They are telling you something.

 

[Tom1956]

Listen to your inner rationale. "Massaging" to loosen them up is not normal and expected. They are telling you something.

agreed

 

[smolk]

I have just scored the original strap (well, the metal bit is original, the owner has replaced the leather not too long ago). Rarely found though.

Apart from that one, I discovered that the Rolleiflex 6008 Integral strap also fits very well.
I just have one and it stays on my 6008i. Note: This 6008 i one is not identical to the 6000 SLX strap.

The OpTech requires you to specify it is for the 2.8C and I think 2.8D model, as the 2.8E and F take a different OpTech strap (as they take different Rollei straps, the scissor-model).

I would have your camera CLA'ed.

 

[Paul in Arizona]

Visually, the strap pin looks very similar to that on my Bronica for which I got an Optech super pro strap. If so the Optech with the metal tips [I think it is type B] should fit. In that case the slot next to the pin becomes irrelevant. I'll put a micrometer on the pins to compare their sizes later today.
My 3.5E strap has scissor tips. Why couldn't they standardize that part or use an eye for a SS split ring? Oh well.

Rather than playing with and forcing the interlock bars and wheels I will take it in to get an opinion and perhaps a full clean and lube. Ideally I'd want the bars disabled because I've had no inadvertent resetting of shutter speeds or f-stops on my E. If this was a trophy case camera I wouldn't bother but I am a user.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

If you don't know for a fact that it has had a clean-n-lube recently, I'd send it in for one. Having it serviced will make all the difference in the world to its general operation and your happiness with the camera.

 

[BrianShaw]

If you don't know for a fact that it has had a clean-n-lube recently, I'd send it in for one. Having it serviced will make all the difference in the world to its general operation and your happiness with the camera.

... and the happiness of the user. There is no better feeling than to have a nice vintage camera to use and not have to worry about it being fickle or failing due to improper maintenance. I once was burned by a vintage camera that failed because it needed overhaul but didn't get it because I was being too cheap. After overhaul it became my best tool for more than a decade. I'll never make that mistake again.

 

[Axle]

Yep, take the baby in for a good CLA, I take my 2.8F in yearly for one.

As for the neck strap, mine had the original leather strap which broke about a year ago, I pulled the leather off of the mounting lugs, got a couple key rings a a strap to my taste and made a new one.

 

[Paul in Arizona]

The 2.8C has a retaining slot and a metal post to which the strap attaches. AFAIK the best solution will be one of the Optech super pro straps.
Heading to the repair shop this morning.

2.8C #4 copy

 

[Paul in Arizona]

Oops. My attempt at adding a photo didn't work out.
I'll have to figure out how to do that.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

IF you have an E or F, there are vendors on Ebay (and Amazon) selling modern nylon or cotton web straps that use the scissors clips. I have them on both of my E series cameras.

 

[Paul in Arizona]

An update: I'm lucky to have two very capable repair shops near by. I took it in to the one I like most.
His diagnosis -the aperture and shutter rings are no stiffer than any he's seen on a C. He said to press the bar down firmer.
He would happily take my money for a CLA but said it didn't need it at this time. No charge.

His final word was DON'T TRUST THAT LEATHER STRAP! I will likely get an Optech Super Pro.

 

[Dan Daniel]

I'll repeat my recent experience with the Op/tech metal clip connecto Bronicasr- although it fit fine, one clip came undone twice. That was more worry that I want to deal with, so I stopped using them. Maybe they were defective, or maybe something about how the clip and the upper part of the lug interacted was the problem. I'm not willing to use my C as a tester. Pushing the Pro-Loop connector material through the C lugs is doable, and I've used this method on many TLRs. Taking a chance with a strap is silly.

I know many will be dismayed that you didn't get a CLA, despite all indications that it wasn't needed. Sometimes it seems that 'CLA' has become as magical an incantation for any slight hiccup in using a camera as 'colonic irrigation' is for some with any slight hiccup in the body.

Pressing the bars becomes second nature after a bit. Like using the reversed viewfinder image. Enjoy the camera.

 

[Tom1956]

Yep, take the baby in for a good CLA, I take my 2.8F in yearly for one.

As for the neck strap, mine had the original leather strap which broke about a year ago, I pulled the leather off of the mounting lugs, got a couple key rings a a strap to my taste and made a new one.

That's a pretty camera. Makes me want to walk away from these Hasselblads I've been working on and send the front element of my 3.5E off for re-surfacing, and finish that project.

 

[BrianShaw]

An update: I'm lucky to have two very capable repair shops near by. I took it in to the one I like most.
His diagnosis -the aperture and shutter rings are no stiffer than any he's seen on a C. He said to press the bar down firmer.
He would happily take my money for a CLA but said it didn't need it at this time. No charge.

His final word was DON'T TRUST THAT LEATHER STRAP! I will likely get an Optech Super Pro.

Wonderful. That is how to resolve potential camera problems - have a tech look at it rather than have internet yokels speculate. Good for you; enjoy!

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Wonderful. That is how to resolve potential camera problems - have a tech look at it rather than have internet yokels speculate. Good for you; enjoy!

Yeah except I just pulled my 2,8C Xenotar out and the dials move very smoothly. Nothing I'd begin to describe as stiff it any way. They should not be stiff at all. I own about eight or nine Rolleiflexes and Rolleicords that I've picked up over the years in a variety of conditions and the one thing I've learned is never get them repaired by a general camera tech get them repaired by somebody who specializes in Rolleiflexes. Just my experience...

 

[Axle]

That's a pretty camera. Makes me want to walk away from these Hasselblads I've been working on and send the front element of my 3.5E off for re-surfacing, and finish that project.

Thanks! I got it from the original owner and haven't looked back since.

 

[Paul in Arizona]

My perception of 'stiff' dials was the comparison with ease of rotation on my 3.5E. Now that I'm getting the hang of adequately pressing that silly little bar down there is no significant difference between the two. Operator error, almost certainly.

I know that the approach to CLA runs from neglect to fetishism, as does the choice of where to take it. I've no interest in getting into a debate over ideology. When a guy I trust says the biggest thing wrong with a camera is a few dust spots on the mirror I'm happy with that -at least for now.

Next to run some film through it. That is the real test isn't it?

I am rethinking the Optech super pro strap thing.

 

[BrianShaw]

Yes.