If anyone needs any detailed pictures of a Rolleicord shutter and Aperture Rebuild, feel free to download.
http://gallery.me.com/kb2qqm#100278
Greg
http://gallery.me.com/kb2qqm#100278
Greg
Rolleicord Shutter
-
A
- Thread starter Greg Heath
- Start date
Recent Classifieds
-
Free Mini Radio triggers: Light pix lab Flash Q
- Started by RoboRepublic
-
Want to Buy Kodak Polytoner
- Started by Guillaume Zuili
-
For Sale PLAUBEL MAKINA 67 GRIP
- Started by Guillaume Zuili
-
For Sale FS: Gundlach-Manhattan Hyperion Diffusion 7in f/4 Lens
- Started by B.S.Kumar
Forum statistics
OP
OP
Glad you found it
The last 5 pictures on the second page of the gallery are the Aperture rebuild.
The first page I was trying to put the aperture blades in position in the F/22 position, and on the top plate. It needs to be accomplished on the silver and black aperture base.
The trick was to start with the aperture base ( and the black disk with the slots) and position that disk (the slider) at the f/3.5 position, which would be closest to where that notch is on the silver aluminum aperture base. That is actually where you screw in the shutter cable release.
When you lay down the blades they actually 'hug' the side of the silver opening...so f/3.5 is fully open.
Then work your way counter-clockwise laying the blades down on the outer perimeter. It's relatively easy until you get to blade number 7. Blade number 7 goes down and then the end at the "7 o'clock" position is actually inserted underneath where you started with blade number 1. Number 8, you continue around the outside, then end of #8 goes under blade 2 and so on. number 9 and then number 10 blade is the most difficult because you are lifting and holding... You are holding all the blades in place while inserting #10 in it's hole and then placing it under the #4 blade slot. It was tough.
Laying the blades in the Aperture at f/3.5 will position the top pins in relatively good position for you to put the top plate on and screw it down. If the top holes don't line up, just put pressure on the top plate and squeeze it together, and prebend a paper clip so that you can insert it between the top plate and the bottom plate and slowly move the pins on the top into position to be fitted into place on the upper cover.
Once you do that.. make sure you check the bottom to see that all the pins are in their respective holes. two had slipped out on me and I had to use a needle to move them back into position.
Thank heavens that's done.
It took 4 days of sweat..but it's done..
Greg
The last 5 pictures on the second page of the gallery are the Aperture rebuild.
The first page I was trying to put the aperture blades in position in the F/22 position, and on the top plate. It needs to be accomplished on the silver and black aperture base.
The trick was to start with the aperture base ( and the black disk with the slots) and position that disk (the slider) at the f/3.5 position, which would be closest to where that notch is on the silver aluminum aperture base. That is actually where you screw in the shutter cable release.
When you lay down the blades they actually 'hug' the side of the silver opening...so f/3.5 is fully open.
Then work your way counter-clockwise laying the blades down on the outer perimeter. It's relatively easy until you get to blade number 7. Blade number 7 goes down and then the end at the "7 o'clock" position is actually inserted underneath where you started with blade number 1. Number 8, you continue around the outside, then end of #8 goes under blade 2 and so on. number 9 and then number 10 blade is the most difficult because you are lifting and holding... You are holding all the blades in place while inserting #10 in it's hole and then placing it under the #4 blade slot. It was tough.
Laying the blades in the Aperture at f/3.5 will position the top pins in relatively good position for you to put the top plate on and screw it down. If the top holes don't line up, just put pressure on the top plate and squeeze it together, and prebend a paper clip so that you can insert it between the top plate and the bottom plate and slowly move the pins on the top into position to be fitted into place on the upper cover.
Once you do that.. make sure you check the bottom to see that all the pins are in their respective holes. two had slipped out on me and I had to use a needle to move them back into position.
Thank heavens that's done.
It took 4 days of sweat..but it's done..
Greg
Last edited by a moderator:
Congratulations !
It is good to hear that you made it !
Peter
It is good to hear that you made it !
Peter
| Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links. To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here. |
PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:  |