I am thinking about buying a non working SL66 in the hopes of fixing it myself God willing. This wouldn't be the first time I bought a camera that wasn't working as it should and have been pretty lucky so far in fixing any problems it had but I never spent as much as $700 for one. Mostly slow shutter, fungus or haze in lenses and I even bought a Rolleiflex 2.8E with slight lens separation and works absolutely fine. All have been purchased well under going prices and all are working fine. The problem with the SL66 seems to be the common shutter won't fire or cock and the mirror is up. I expect most will say I am a fool to work on it myself and a couple might even say what the problem may be. My over 40 years fixing copiers makes me believe since these are an all mechanical design the problem is probably a stuck lever, a broken spring or hopefully just flushing levers with a good electronic spray.
OK I am ready for my bashing.
I have a 500 C/M, Rolleiflex 2.8E, Bronica EC-TL, Mamiya 6, Kowa Six and Minolta Autocord, but would love an SL66 but I just don't want to put the money out for one because of what I already have.$700 for a broken camera, even a really nice broken camera seems like a lot. Especially a really complex hard to fix broken camera with not-so-great parts availability. Why not get a working camera for that price? Lots of professional grade 6x6 and up options at that price: a TLR rolleiflex, Mamiya C330, a bargain on a Hasselblad 500C w/ 150mm lens, bronica S2a, bronica SQ
OK, that is something I would do... although I'm not sure how much I'd spend for a non-working SL66 - depends on it's condition.
However, a local repair tech that has worked on them (Hasselblads, Rollei's, and all sorts of mechanical MF bodies) warned me against one, he said it was the most pain-in-the-ass body to work on. (Mamiya RB's were the easiest) As a result, I have not picked one up yet.
Let us know how it goes, I'd be interested... and may follow your lead!
The SL66 is a wonderful machine, but notoriously difficult to work on, with more then 1000 different parts.
Have a look here at its inerts.
http://www.sl66.com/pg/sl66_open.shtml
So far I have only dared to repair 2 non-functioning backs. I did have a peak inside the right side of my SL^^ ones. Closed the side very quickly and send it to Jürgen Kuschnik, who unfortunately since past away.
The Hasselblad repairman I use also is authorized to repair Rollei SL66 and he recommended the Hasselblad over the SL66 et al.
The repair tech I knew was quite frank about all the cameras. He did not like them because they were a pain to work on, it took 3 time longer to service than a 'blad, but you could not charge 3x the price. From a user standpoint, it's a really nice, reliable machine.The Hasselblad repairman I use also is authorized to repair Rollei SL66 and he recommended the Hasselblad over the SL66 et al.
That does look like a pain. Layer upon layer of gears and levers.The SL66 is a wonderful machine, but notoriously difficult to work on, with more then 1000 different parts.
Have a look here at its inerts.
http://www.sl66.com/pg/sl66_open.shtml
So far I have only dared to repair 2 non-functioning backs. I did have a peak inside the right side of my SL^^ ones. Closed the side very quickly and send it to Jürgen Kuschnik, who unfortunately since past away.
The Hasselblad repairman I use also is authorized to repair Rollei SL66 and he recommended the Hasselblad over the SL66 et al.
The camera was sold, so I guess I was saved.
The camera was sold, so I guess I was saved.
I guess he would, being a Hasselblad repairman. I also guess a Hasselblad is easier to repair. As a user tool I think the SL66 surpasses a Hasselblad quite handily.
I already have one.Buy a working Hasselblad instead.
The Sl66 body isn't the price issue. It's the lenses.
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