I just ordered a Rollei SL66 with a stuck shutter in the hopes I can unjam it. Anyone have this problem and released it without sending it in for service?
Rollei SL66 stuck shutter
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'be careful out there' with this machine; I wouldn't touch it with a toothpick!
a happy owner sl66se
a happy owner sl66se
The interlocks are a bit unforgiving. I had a body that jammed but I don't remember exactly what was jammed. I unjammed it using a home made dark slide (for the magazine) that had a bit cut out of the corner to circumvent part of the interlock system. I can have a look through my old files if you'd like.
Once going, it has been a dream to use. I love it.
Once going, it has been a dream to use. I love it.
You might try to contact Dave Feely at Key Camera/Precision Camera repair in Colorado, He seems to be the go-to for Rollei SLRs.
I returned my own SL66 to the ebay seller because it came that way. There are a number of people in the US who will work on it (Harry Fleenor, of course; but others. I can't recommend this guy too highly: I bought my HB 500 c/m from him and he told me he does work on SL66s, though it takes him at least 2x as long to repair the same thing: http://box5760.temp.domains/~barnowl2/) He's only an hour's drive from Boston and he's a really great guy to hang with. He'd probably fix it for you while you wait.
There's apparently someone in France who is making and selling the same tool for the SL66 that HB owners use for a mirror lock. He supposedly advertises on the SL66 facebook page, but that's just what I've been told. I don't go on FB.
Good luck with this. I'm now reading Barry Thornton's brilliant The Edge of Darkness. Every wonderful photo was taken with his SL66, and I am totally envious. But I came to the conclusion that it is just too complex a camera with too few repair people and too few spare parts to own these days. Sigh.....
There's apparently someone in France who is making and selling the same tool for the SL66 that HB owners use for a mirror lock. He supposedly advertises on the SL66 facebook page, but that's just what I've been told. I don't go on FB.
Good luck with this. I'm now reading Barry Thornton's brilliant The Edge of Darkness. Every wonderful photo was taken with his SL66, and I am totally envious. But I came to the conclusion that it is just too complex a camera with too few repair people and too few spare parts to own these days. Sigh.....
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Received the camera and managed to free the shutter without taking it apart. The next problem I found is the 1 sec shutter doesn't always open, maybe 1 out of 10-15 releases. That's not a problem for me. The next problem I had was the film not stopping at 1, it would keep winding through the roll and the knob on the magazine would not stay in. There are a couple of levers in the film compartment and one wasn't moving when you activated the door lever. Gave it a little nudge and now that seems to be working. I will run a few dummy test rolls and try shooting a roll. There is also a problem when focusing, it catches as you focus at a few spots but if you back it up a hair it will continue to focus until the next lock. Without opening it up it feels like there maybe some debris in the focus rack or damaged gear if it's a nylon gear. The overall cosmetic condition is excellent so I think I may have found a bargain if I can successfully shoot a roll.
Great for you! Wish I had your courage and skills. You're going to end up with a fabulous camera!
Update. The shutter is now showing problems at several speeds so this may be going back soon. Too much to deal with without an expensive overhaul.
Sorry. I know you want to keep costs down and are a DIY kind of person, but maybe give Jim Kilroy a call at Barn Owl in Warwick MA. He might either talk you through it or give you an estimate which might be worth it for you.
None of my business, but I'm living my dream through you.
Is that Warwick Ma. or RI? I only come up with a restauraunt in Warwick RI
Warwick MA. Jim Kilroy's a really, really good guy.
barnowlcameras@gmail.com
If you found the Barn Owl Restaurant in Warwick MA, that was his, too. His camera business is out of him (nearby) home.
If you get around to fixing the common magazine problem I can post some details.
FYI. If you have one and you don't have a rescue tool to remove the back you can take the latch off the bottom of the back and it will come off, just be careful there is a spring in there but it's not a tiny one.
Hi John. Can you post a photo or drawing or your modified dark slide that you used for unjamming? A friend has a jammed SL66. Thanks, John.
I'll have a look through my old notes.
This was posted at photo.net years ago:
That is what I made up from some sheet metal (brass from a model train shop.) It worked for me.
Also, I copied this from the net somewhere. It might help but I haven't needed to follow it:
<start of quote>
SL66 "Jam Session" - how to jam a back on the body
Lauri Talve photo.net patron, Mar 29, 2007; 03:45 p.m.
Having recently bought and unjammed a Rolleiflex SL66E which had a back jammed on it I'll try to describe here why the back can jam on the body. No other detailed description seems to be available on the net. Pardon my english.
Some technical details to explain the problem.
- There is a pin on the film back, naturally pointing towards the body. This pin goes into an opening in the camera body when the back is attached.
-This pin moves outwards (towards the side with the winding knob) when the darkslide is pushed in and inwards when the darkslide is pulled out.
- when the shutter is released a lever moves into the outward side of the opening for this pin in the camera body. This lever prevents the outward movement of the pin and thus also the inserting of the darkslide (also when the darkslide is inserted and thus the pin is on the outward side, this lever can't move, and thus the shutter can't be released)
-the cogwheel in the body which takes care of the film transport and also the corresponding cogwheel in the back (you know the one with the finger next to it) rotate BOTH ways. Importantly, there is a stop position in both directions for the rotation of the cogwheel in the back.
-When you span the shutter (turning crank clockwise 270 degrees), the cogwheel in the back will rotate AWAY from the direction of the finger, reaching a stop position
- during this first 270 degrees turn of the crank the lever moves away from the outward side of the opening in the camera body
-when the crank is turned forward (counterclockwise 270 degrees) it rotates the cogwheel in the back in the direction of the finger, transporting the film to the next frame
last important point: - The film back can only be taken off from the body if the darkslide is pushed in ALL the way, because it only then actuates the mechanism which frees the release button of the back.
All right.
Now, to JAM a back on SL66 , do this:
1. take a picture
2. Turn the crank 270 degrees clockwise ONLY and leave it pointing up
3. insert darkslide and take off the film back
4. turn the crank counterclockwise 270 degrees to the starting position
5. attach the back and take out the darkslide
6. release the shutter
NOW YOU HAVE A JAMMED SL66!
- you can't turn the crank (because the cogwheel in the back is at stopping position, and can't be rotated any longer in that direction)
- you can't insert the darkslide (because the lever in the body now prevents the movement of the pin of the back)
- you can't take off the back (because the darkslide is not in)
Now, how to UNJAM this (supposing everything else works):***see correction below
1. push in the double exposure lever, now you can turn the crank and span the shutter but turn it clockwise ONLY: now you can again insert the darkslide and take off the back, then turn the crank counterclockwise and attach the back - that's it. Unjammed.
2. alternatively, use a special darkslide with a special cut in its one corner: this slide can be pushed in past the pin, so the back can be taken off
This description is based on the SL66E. I don't know whether this applies to SL66 and other versions of this camera.
disclaimer: All here is written with the best intentions. I take no responsibility at all if someone following these instructions causes any damage.
Answers
Lauri Talvephoto.net patron, Mar 29, 2007; 04:18 p.m.
***CORRECTION: Now, how to UNJAM this (supposing everything else works):
1. push in the double exposure lever, now you can turn the crank: now you can again insert the darkslide and take off the back. Then, alternatively, you can rotate the wheel on the back in the direction of the finger until it stops, or turn crank back to starting position, release the shutter and turn the crank 270 degrees. Now attach the back, and take out the darkslide and turn the crank back to starting position.
2. alternatively, use a special darkslide with a special cut in its one corner: this slide can be pushed in past the pin, so the back can be taken off
That is what I made up from some sheet metal (brass from a model train shop.) It worked for me.
Also, I copied this from the net somewhere. It might help but I haven't needed to follow it:
<start of quote>
SL66 "Jam Session" - how to jam a back on the body
Lauri Talve photo.net patron, Mar 29, 2007; 03:45 p.m.
Having recently bought and unjammed a Rolleiflex SL66E which had a back jammed on it I'll try to describe here why the back can jam on the body. No other detailed description seems to be available on the net. Pardon my english.
Some technical details to explain the problem.
- There is a pin on the film back, naturally pointing towards the body. This pin goes into an opening in the camera body when the back is attached.
-This pin moves outwards (towards the side with the winding knob) when the darkslide is pushed in and inwards when the darkslide is pulled out.
- when the shutter is released a lever moves into the outward side of the opening for this pin in the camera body. This lever prevents the outward movement of the pin and thus also the inserting of the darkslide (also when the darkslide is inserted and thus the pin is on the outward side, this lever can't move, and thus the shutter can't be released)
-the cogwheel in the body which takes care of the film transport and also the corresponding cogwheel in the back (you know the one with the finger next to it) rotate BOTH ways. Importantly, there is a stop position in both directions for the rotation of the cogwheel in the back.
-When you span the shutter (turning crank clockwise 270 degrees), the cogwheel in the back will rotate AWAY from the direction of the finger, reaching a stop position
- during this first 270 degrees turn of the crank the lever moves away from the outward side of the opening in the camera body
-when the crank is turned forward (counterclockwise 270 degrees) it rotates the cogwheel in the back in the direction of the finger, transporting the film to the next frame
last important point: - The film back can only be taken off from the body if the darkslide is pushed in ALL the way, because it only then actuates the mechanism which frees the release button of the back.
All right.
Now, to JAM a back on SL66 , do this:
1. take a picture
2. Turn the crank 270 degrees clockwise ONLY and leave it pointing up
3. insert darkslide and take off the film back
4. turn the crank counterclockwise 270 degrees to the starting position
5. attach the back and take out the darkslide
6. release the shutter
NOW YOU HAVE A JAMMED SL66!
- you can't turn the crank (because the cogwheel in the back is at stopping position, and can't be rotated any longer in that direction)
- you can't insert the darkslide (because the lever in the body now prevents the movement of the pin of the back)
- you can't take off the back (because the darkslide is not in)
Now, how to UNJAM this (supposing everything else works):***see correction below
1. push in the double exposure lever, now you can turn the crank and span the shutter but turn it clockwise ONLY: now you can again insert the darkslide and take off the back, then turn the crank counterclockwise and attach the back - that's it. Unjammed.
2. alternatively, use a special darkslide with a special cut in its one corner: this slide can be pushed in past the pin, so the back can be taken off
This description is based on the SL66E. I don't know whether this applies to SL66 and other versions of this camera.
disclaimer: All here is written with the best intentions. I take no responsibility at all if someone following these instructions causes any damage.
Answers
Lauri Talvephoto.net patron, Mar 29, 2007; 04:18 p.m.
***CORRECTION: Now, how to UNJAM this (supposing everything else works):
1. push in the double exposure lever, now you can turn the crank: now you can again insert the darkslide and take off the back. Then, alternatively, you can rotate the wheel on the back in the direction of the finger until it stops, or turn crank back to starting position, release the shutter and turn the crank 270 degrees. Now attach the back, and take out the darkslide and turn the crank back to starting position.
2. alternatively, use a special darkslide with a special cut in its one corner: this slide can be pushed in past the pin, so the back can be taken off
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