I've read that you are supposed to rate this stuff at ISO 25 with a Hoya R72 filter. I've also read that this is bullshit.
I know that the exposure for infared film does not properly correspond to a standard light meter reading, instead depending on the amount of IR light availible...
So, can you tell me a Sunny-16 type rule for using this film with a R72 in direct sun/mixed with shade? And also, anyone got the dev times for Rodinal?
I never use Rollei IR, because it isn't as IR sensitive as Efke, but anyhoo... As far as Efke, I use the following technique. I set my camera's TTL meter (I have a canon rebel) to ISO 6-10, depending on the amount of sunlight. I then meter with the R72 off the lens, and lock in the exposure. Then I attach the R72 and shoot, usually followed by another shot of the same scene but one stop over exposed. This should get fairly decent results for any TTL meter, and its pretty repeatable, which is what you want for infrared anyways. Now, if you happen to have a handheld meter, its a whole different ballgame, one that I do not play. Now, remember how I said that Rollei isn't as IR sensitive as Efke? This means that you may want to start off with the one stop over exposed and then go to two stops. The best advice for any IR film is buy several rolls and experiment for yourself with your light/exposure conditions and your processing conditions.
Oh, and in good sunlight, 1/10-1/2 second @ f/16 should be in the ballpark more or less....
If you look at my APUG Gallery photos, you will see two shots using the Rollie Infrared film and a Hoya R72 filter. One was metered at EI 12, and the other at EI 3.
Both were shot in an area with high foliage overhead. Both were metered using a reflection hand meter.
Here is a download of the 2nd photo (Forest 2 - EI of 3):
With an R72 I would count on a ~6-8 stop exposure factor.
In the spring (soon!), when the air tends to be quite dry, and foliage is bright and fresh, you will note that you can probably get by with about 5 to 6 stops of compensation. It is that combination of dry air and fresh foliage that is magic. When the humidity arrives, you can forget that and may soon find yourself needing longer exposures. In my area (Virginia), April is *the* IR month, everything is perfect!
Just bracket, and bracket widely. You can forget bracketing +/- 1 stop, that won't do anything. Bracket +/- 2 stops at least.
P.S. These days I am using Rollei superpan more than the other films. I treat it identically to the Rollei IR and shoot it with filters as deep as the #87.
P.P.S. I do quite a lot of IR shooting and am happy to help out anyone who comes down to Charlottesville.
Starting bracketing around iso 12 is a good starting point for this iso 400 Rollei IR film. Indeed the result is depending on the amount IR light in the atmosphere which you can normally not measure with a meter.
But your compensation for this filter should be around 5 f stops.
Here an example made with the Yashica Mat 124-G with bay I Heliopan RG715nm filter. The Hoya 72R is 720nm.
If you look at my APUG Gallery photos, you will see two shots using the Rollie Infrared film and a Hoya R72 filter. One was metered at EI 12, and the other at EI 3.
Both were shot in an area with high foliage overhead. Both were metered using a reflection hand meter.
Here is a download of the 2nd photo (Forest 2 - EI of 3):