Rollei Colorchem c-41 kit questions

Just received my first Rollei Colorchem c-41 kit (2.5 L) and am having a devil of a time understanding the very cryptic directions. I've done my own E-6 in the past so I'm not new to the color process.

There was a post not too long ago on this forum but it didn't answer some of my questions, and I've Googled the issue and not found anything else. I also can't find a link to Rollei or Maco for support.
My biggest concern is that unless I'm misunderstanding the directions (likely) there isn't enough blix to bleach/fix the 16 rolls the color developer is said to process.

The directions say: "The bleach-fixer can used (sic) twice. For additional processes the bleach-fix is changed 50% of the bath with fresh solution."

I'm developing 120 film in a single reel tank that requires 600 ml to cover. If I follow these directions I would mix a 2,500 ml (2.5 L) working solution and would reserve 1,250 ml of that to replenish the used solution as I go along. I would develop 4 films using a combination of 1,250 virgin and once-used solution per the instructions, i.e. using it twice, then for films 5 - 10, I would discard 50% of each tank full (300 ml) and replace it with 300 ml of the reserved virgin solution, and fix two rolls with each replenished batch. Doing this would only get me through 10 films rather than the 16 Rollei advertises. The directions for the developer, however, do get me through 16 rolls.

Obviously I'm missing something here - a not unusual occurrence for me!

Also I'm wondering whether I should be getting more out of the working solution. Since I'm developing only one roll of 120 at a time and it is common to develop 2 135 rolls at a time, could I stretch the developer to get more 120 rolls out of it? Since there's not a lot of difference in surface area of 135 and 120 I doubt it but thought I'd ask.

Thanks

All these instructions sort of assume that you have a roller processor and use 135 format film, and their instructions can't possibly work with single 120 format roll film in an inversion tank. As you may have noticed from other threads, BLIX is a complicated issue, and the foremost experts are quite convinced that BLIXes don't create silver free color film.

Here's what I recommend you do:

1. Don't mix the whole kit, unless you really have enough rolls of film to develop at once. 500ml is plenty for 6-8 rolls of 120 film. After taking out parts of the concentrate, make sure you put inert gas into all bottles with content that's sensitive to oxidation.
2. Each run dilutes your chems from carry over water, so do as few runs as possible. If you can, spool two rolls of 120 film onto one spindle, and develop 2 rolls of 135 films at once.
   
3. Reuse that batch of BLIX, and extend BLIX times for each consecutive run. Tetenal's instructions give a hint how much to extend BLIX times, use these as the lower limit.
4. Think about converting your BLIX kit into one with separate bleach and fixer, as shown in my (there was a url link here which no longer exists).

Rudeofus said:

All these instructions sort of assume that you have a roller processor and use 135 format film, and their instructions can't possibly work with single 120 format roll film in an inversion tank. As you may have noticed from other threads, BLIX is a complicated issue, and the foremost experts are quite convinced that BLIXes don't create silver free color film.

Here's what I recommend you do:

1. Don't mix the whole kit, unless you really have enough rolls of film to develop at once. 500ml is plenty for 6-8 rolls of 120 film. After taking out parts of the concentrate, make sure you put inert gas into all bottles with content that's sensitive to oxidation.
2. Each run dilutes your chems from carry over water, so do as few runs as possible. If you can, spool two rolls of 120 film onto one spindle, and develop 2 rolls of 135 films at once.
   
3. Reuse that batch of BLIX, and extend BLIX times for each consecutive run. Tetenal's instructions give a hint how much to extend BLIX times, use these as the lower limit.
4. Think about converting your BLIX kit into one with separate bleach and fixer, as shown in my (there was a url link here which no longer exists).

Click to expand...

Thanks Rudeofus. Appreciate the help. trying to load 2 120's on a reel will be a job but I'll see if I can manage it.

Yes, loading two rolls at once is a daunting task, and I highly recommend you do some dry runs before you do this with precious negatives.

It is simple to load two 120 films on to the same Paterson reel. Just load the first normally, then use your finger to push the film along into the core of the reel until it stops at the end. Then load the second film normally.

You need to avoid rotary agitation, as the film is likely to wander and may overlap.

Some people approach it slightly differently - they have success taping the end of the first roll to the beginning of the second after the first roll is loaded, and the second is started. If you can do that it is a better way to avoid overlap.

It may help to use a pre-wet. It seems to me that film is at its slipperiest when it is in developer.