I had a liter of PC-TEA stock that I wasn't using for film and one night when I didn't feel like mixing a more standard print developer for some quick tests, I mixed it 1+20 and it worked quite well. The stock was about a year old. The developer was still working the next day. For mw, such a developer has the advantage that I can use my very hard faucet water and not get cloudiness.
I have taken to throwing in a tablespoon of sulfite to the half gallon. I don't know if it does anything but maybe keep the solution from turning too brown for a little longer.
Rodinal was recommended as a Paper developer, as well as for plates and films, some years ago. If I can find the Agfa book I'll give the dilution,
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Ilford Certinal was also used as a paper developer, as were other Rodinal clones like Kodinol.
On that basis para-Rodinal should work. Essentially using Paracetamol (Tylenol) as the developing agent. Again you would need to add Bromide.
Ian
I've spent the past couple of days searching and seems like there's nothing as far as formulas go.
Here's my wishlist... an ascorbic/phenidone or dimezone developer in PEG that would last a long time that I could get something like 10ml and dilute into 1L. I know I'll need a second set of dry ingredients like borax and the like.
Has anybody done something like that? I know of at least one commercial product, the ars-imago PE paper Eco developer in 1L. Ars-imago says that it'd last 1 year from the manufacturing date and once opened it'd last 3 months. Dilution is 1+9. Ideally I'd love for the concentrate to last more than 3 months once opened.
Does anybody have a formula for something like that? Or a variation of something like PCTEA but for paper?
Either D-72 (MQ) of ID-62 (PQ) stored in a wine pouch keeps 1 year, time enough to use 1 litre or even 2 litrre if reasonably active printing.Ideally I'd love for the concentrate to last more than 3 months once opened.
para-Rodinal should work. Essentially using Paracetamol (Tylenol) as the developing agent.
They are simple but I don’t have hydroquinone.
Also due to toxicity and disposal.
Nothing wrong with going ECO and I use XT-3(Xtol) myself, but most of the chemicals used now in photography are not that bad. Some of the old timers here remember a certain fellow always saying that many of the cleaning products you have under your kitchen sink were much worse than most photo chemicals we use today. Still pays to play it on the safe side if you can. All I know is that my chemical shelf will probably never be void of hydroquinone.I’ve been using Ilford PQ developer for years and just recently decided to switch to mixing my own. I thought might as well go Ascorbic acid all the way, I already use XTOL and figured why not? So purchased all the stuff I needed and I’m sorta tied to ascorbic/phenidone/Dimezone for some time now.
Rodinal oxidizes quickly so it won't last long in a tray.
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