Road Trip - Oregon, Washington & Montana

BradS · Jul 1, 2019

My youngest son turned 18 this year. He's headed off to college in the fall. We're taking a two week road trip this summer - the second and third weeks of July.

I've traveled most of this route before but it has been over twenty years since I've been up that way.

We'll stay along the coast from the San Francisco bay area to Astoria and then head inland along the Columbia river. We'll turn north east near Hood River and travel north east to the corner of Washington state, pop up into Canada to jump over Idaho and drop down into Montana near Glacier Nat'l park.

I've made some pretty loose plans for routes and sights...but, would love to hear your suggestions and local insights. Especially regarding restaurants and cafes...but all the rest too.

Thanks in Advance.

(Oh, and the gear...we always have to talk about the gear....huh. I'm packing light. A Nikon F2, three lenses, 24, 50 and 105, and a handful of filters. My son has said he's taking his Spotmatic and 55/1.8 )

BAC1967 · Jul 1, 2019

On the Oregon coast a few of my favorites are: Cape Arago https://oregonstateparks.org/index.cfm?do=parkPage.dsp_parkPage&parkId=66
Get some clam chowder in Charleston, OR
Winchester Bay is nice, another small fishing village like Charleston.
Check out the dunes between Reedsport and Florence.
Heceta Head lighthouse and Yaquina Head lighthouse are nice.
The Wreck of the Peter Iredale https://oregonhistoryproject.org/articles/historical-records/the-wreck-of-the-peter-iredale/.
Lots of great places to see on the Oregon coast.

When you cut up into Washington head to Palouse Falls https://parks.state.wa.us/559/Palouse-Falls. Stay on the back roads through the Palouse in Washington, that's the best way to experience it.

I guess your trying to avoid Idaho.

Sirius Glass · Jul 1, 2019

The Columbia River Gorge was formed by Ice Age Lake Missoula. http://www.glaciallakemissoula.org/virtualtour/lakemissoula.html The lake broke through several times and the destructive actions and land form changes can be found once you know what to look for. Dry Falls is a good place to start.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_Falls
https://parks.state.wa.us/251/Dry-Falls

Also the story of the Nez Perce. https://www.britannica.com/biography/Chief-Joseph
So Big Hole Montana is worth a visit.
https://www.nps.gov/biho/index.htm
https://www.nps.gov/articles/725543.htm#4/34.45/-98.53

Of course Glacier National Park and the Road to the Sun. Book the Red Bus tour well in advance.
https://www.nps.gov/glac/index.htm

Theo Sulphate · Jul 1, 2019

As you probably know, Crown Point offers a great view, if not the best view, of the Gorge. You can get to the road there from Troutdale, OR.

The Palouse, mentioned above, is a must-see.

In general, mid-day flat lighting is the worst for places like this. Early morning or a few hours before sunset, and sunset is best.

BradS · Jul 1, 2019

BAC1967 said:
On the Oregon coast a few of my favorites are:
Cape Arago https://oregonstateparks.org/index.cfm?do=parkPage.dsp_parkPage&parkId=66
Get some clam chowder in Charleston, OR
Winchester Bay is nice, another small fishing village like Charleston.

Ah, excellent. I like clam chowder and small fishing villages. Thanks.

BAC1967 said:
Check out the dunes between Reedsport and Florence.
Heceta Head lighthouse and Yaquina Head lighthouse are nice.
The Wreck of the Peter Iredale https://oregonhistoryproject.org/articles/historical-records/the-wreck-of-the-peter-iredale/.
Lots of great places to see on the Oregon coast.

We're planning to camp in the Siuslaw Nat'l Forest just north of Reedsport...and, we're both interested in old light houses and light ships...will add Haceta head to the list. Yaquina head too. I remember the Peter Iredale...

Yeah, too many places, I feel like I could easy spend the summer just hiking and eating along the coast.

BAC1967 said:
When you cut up into Washington head to Palouse Falls https://parks.state.wa.us/559/Palouse-Falls. Stay on the back roads through the Palouse in Washington, that's the best way to experience it.

Will check it out. My son wants to visit the Hanford reactor site and the University in Pullman so, that's kinda helping determine our route through Washinton.

BAC1967 said:
I guess your trying to avoid Idaho.

It does seem that way but, there just doesn't appear to be any convenient road (through Idaho) between the Coleville NF and Glacier NP...
so, like....Canada, eh?

Thanks for the insights.

BradS · Jul 1, 2019

Sirius Glass said:
The Columbia River Gorge was formed by Ice Age Lake Missoula. http://www.glaciallakemissoula.org/virtualtour/lakemissoula.html The lake broke through several times and the destructive actions and land form changes can be found once you know what to look for. Dry Falls is a good place to start.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_Falls
https://parks.state.wa.us/251/Dry-Falls

Also the story of the Nez Perce. https://www.britannica.com/biography/Chief-Joseph
So Big Hole Montana is worth a visit.
https://www.nps.gov/biho/index.htm
https://www.nps.gov/articles/725543.htm#4/34.45/-98.53

Of course Glacier National Park and the Road to the Sun. Book the Red Bus tour well in advance.
https://www.nps.gov/glac/index.htm

Ever since the first time I saw it, I was captivated by the Columbia river (gorge). It is an almost spiritual feeling so, this is really excellent. Now, I have more research to do.

Thank you!

BradS · Jul 1, 2019

Theo Sulphate said:
As you probably know, Crown Point offers a great view, if not the best view, of the Gorge. You can get to the road there from Troutdale, OR.

The Palouse, mentioned above, is a must-see.

In general, mid-day flat lighting is the worst for places like this. Early morning or a few hours before sunset, and sunset is best.

Ah, yes, crown point. I think they have tripod holes there for us...

Here in California, it seems like "golden hour" only lasts about ten minutes...

Thank you.

BradS · Jul 1, 2019

Just checked the map...Palouse Falls is right along our route between Hanford and Pullman!

ahtoxa · Jul 1, 2019

Hanford site tours are fantastic, just make sure to book a date: https://manhattanprojectbreactor.hanford.gov/
Roads around Palouse offer fantastic views of rolling hills, just avoid major highways that are pretty boring. Both Kamiak and Steptoe buttes give an elevated point over vast (and beautiful) farmland

BAC1967 · Jul 1, 2019

BradS said:
Will check it out. My son wants to visit the Hanford reactor site and the University in Pullman so, that's kinda helping determine our route through Washinton.

I went to WSU, graduated in 1989, great college town. Make sure you go to Ferdinand's and get some ice cream. It's run by the school, everything is made by students including the award winning Cougar Gold cheese. You should get a tin of their cheese there as well. https://creamery.wsu.edu/ferdinands-ice-cream-shoppe/about-ferdinands/

Vaughn · Jul 1, 2019

Cougar Cheese -- hard milking those cougars...they go thru a lot of students that way, but it adds a nice flavor to the milk. (BIL went to WSU and the cheese is wonderful).

What plans do you have for the redwoods? That's my turf if you want specific info. If you need a place to stay (just 5 miles inland on Hwy299), let me know. My place is a bit of a mess, but I have a couch and a backyard to camp in.

Last time I photographed at Dry Falls in July it was well over 100F. Image below (4x10 carbon print). At least it was too hot for the rattlesnakes to be out.

PS -- I'll be heading up to Washington State (west of the Cascades) on about July 15th.

BradS · Jul 2, 2019

Vaughn said:
Cougar Cheese -- hard milking those cougars...they go thru a lot of students that way, but it adds a nice flavor to the milk. (BIL went to WSU and the cheese is wonderful).

What plans do you have for the redwoods? That's my turf if you want specific info. If you need a place to stay (just 5 miles inland on Hwy299), let me know. My place is a bit of a mess, but I have a couch and a backyard to camp in.

Last time I photographed at Dry Falls in July it was well over 100F. Image below (4x10 carbon print). At least it was too hot for the rattlesnakes to be out.

PS -- I'll be heading up to Washington State (west of the Cascades) on about July 15th.

Thanks Vaughn. The California leg of our trip is still unsettled. I'll stop for maps at the BLM office in Arcata but, not sure if we'll stay the night in/near shelter cove or up near Crescent City. Will keep you in mind.

Any good restaurant / cafe recommendation?

Vaughn · Jul 2, 2019

Cool, not too many people venture out to Shelter Cove (a long way out and then one has to turn around and come back the same way) -- there might be a restraunt out there, it has been years since I was there.

Sea Grill in Eureka is good for sea food. The Cafe Waterfront is a nice breakfast place...instead of toast, get their coffee cake. The Samoa Cookhouse (across the bay from Eureka) is a limited-menu, all-you-want-to-eat, logger-style place. Lots of historic timber-related photographs on the walls. Best for breakfast...especially if they are serving French Toast. I have family that visit and they always want to eat breakfast there.

I do not know much about Crescent City eateries, but if you like pub food SeaQuake brewery/Pub is said to be good -- as is Lost Coast Brewery in Eureka and the Eel River brewery in Fortuna. Not as special for those who do not like beer -- or too young to drink.

I do not eat out much, so my knowledge is limited. Arcata has a new restraunt called Campfire -- good meats, but not cheap and noisy.

Lauripins just north of Trinidad is an excellent place and the Moonstone Grill south of Trinidad is great -- get a window seat over-looking the Pacific. Both are on the pricey side for Humboldt County...probably considered average priced in the big city.

Sirius Glass · Jul 3, 2019

If you can fit it in visit Craters of the Moon National Park in Idaho. Take the time to walk the trails and see the lava flows and how plants are taking back the land.

https://www.nps.gov/crmo/index.htm

BradS · Jul 3, 2019

Sirius Glass said:
If you can fit it in visit Craters of the Moon National Park in Idaho. Take the time to walk the trails and see the lava flows and how plants are taking back the land.

https://www.nps.gov/crmo/index.htm

Ah...yes! another "spiritual place"
Thank you. I had completely forgotten about this place.

1kgcoffee · Jul 4, 2019

If you’re heading up the coast there are some beautiful spots just north of nehalem bay for photographic opportunity. Beautiful cliffs, beach alongside picturesque little town. I stayed at a very affordable campground near bar view jetty just south of there. But good luck finding space this time of year. You must stop at cannon beach on the way up to Astoria. Super expensive ritzy area but beautiful nonetheless. South of nehalem bay you have national parks containing sand dunes with some neat hiking trails.

I regret not making it out to Bend.

Astoria is neat it’s worth a trip up to the lighthouse.

If you head east from Portland along the Columbia it’s goes from lush and green to arid. The transition is spectacular and the river valley is something special. I would definitely recommend exploring around Dalles.

In Montana you have glacier national park which has lakes and mountains and something like switzerwland.

Idaho is nice but I think you’ll find better in Oregon and western Montana.

You could easily spend the whole two weeks in Oregon but where you are planning to travel is like going hunting in a zoo. You will not be disappointed wherever you go. I would probably go in a loop either up to montana passing through bend then back along i84 from Spokane maybe shooting up to Olympic national forest before heading back down along the coast. Have fun

Vaughn · Jul 4, 2019

Shore Acres State Park south of Coos Bay/Charleston is another great Oregon spot -- quick walking access to great coastline.

BradS · Jul 4, 2019

Vaughn said:
Cool, not too many people venture out to Shelter Cove (a long way out and then one has to turn around and come back the same way) -- there might be a restraunt out there, it has been years since I was there.

Sea Grill in Eureka is good for sea food. The Cafe Waterfront is a nice breakfast place...instead of toast, get their coffee cake. The Samoa Cookhouse (across the bay from Eureka) is a limited-menu, all-you-want-to-eat, logger-style place. Lots of historic timber-related photographs on the walls. Best for breakfast...especially if they are serving French Toast. I have family that visit and they always want to eat breakfast there.
....

My son and I both put shelter cove (along with punta gorda and cape mendocino) down as one of the places we wanted to see. I'm really looking forward to getting away from the "host of humanity" here in the sf bay area.

Vaughn said:
Shore Acres State Park south of Coos Bay/Charleston is another great Oregon spot -- quick walking access to great coastline.

Noted. Thanks Vaughn.

BradS · Jul 4, 2019

1kgcoffee said:
If you’re heading up the coast there are some beautiful spots just north of nehalem bay for photographic opportunity. Beautiful cliffs, beach alongside picturesque little town. I stayed at a very affordable campground near bar view jetty just south of there. But good luck finding space this time of year. You must stop at cannon beach on the way up to Astoria. Super expensive ritzy area but beautiful nonetheless. South of nehalem bay you have national parks containing sand dunes with some neat hiking trails.

I regret not making it out to Bend.

Astoria is neat it’s worth a trip up to the lighthouse.

If you head east from Portland along the Columbia it’s goes from lush and green to arid. The transition is spectacular and the river valley is something special. I would definitely recommend exploring around Dalles.

In Montana you have glacier national park which has lakes and mountains and something like switzerwland.

Idaho is nice but I think you’ll find better in Oregon and western Montana.

You could easily spend the whole two weeks in Oregon but where you are planning to travel is like going hunting in a zoo. You will not be disappointed wherever you go. I would probably go in a loop either up to montana passing through bend then back along i84 from Spokane maybe shooting up to Olympic national forest before heading back down along the coast. Have fun

Thanks.

I bought a book about the oregon coast....
William L. Sullivan, "100 Hikes / Travel Guide: Oregon Coast & Coast Range"

It is very hike centric - which is nice - but as I read it, I realize there is much to see and do on the coast and the climate on the coast this time of year will be more agreeable than inland...not happy to hear about crownds...but, we'll see how it goes.

Vaughn · Jul 4, 2019

BradS said:
My son and I both put shelter cove (along with punta gorda and cape mendocino) down as one of the places we wanted to see. I'm really looking forward to getting away from the "host of humanity" here in the sf bay area.

The Lost Coast drive via the road to Shelter Cove to Honeydew, Petrolia (site of California's first oil well), Cape Mendocino and Ferndale is definitely away from the 'host of humanity'! The section of coast you'll be driving along was raised 3 feet during one of our larger recent quakes. Normal summer conditions along the coast there is strong winds from the north. The road can be rough, but passable for all vehicles. If you are camping and the time is right, there is a BLM campground (bring water just in case) at the mouth of the Mattole River (the Mattole Campground) down Lighthouse Road just before you get to Petrolia. There is another larger BLM campground between Honeydew and Petrolia (A.Way Campground) along the Mattole River...should still be good swimming.

PS...The Punta Gorda Lighthouse is a good dayhike from the Mattole Campground -- mind the tides and the wind! Taken by my son, Bryce, at about 18 yrs of age:

Photo Engineer · Jul 4, 2019

Try stopping by the Formulary as you go south from Glacier Park.

PE

Sirius Glass · Jul 4, 2019

Photo Engineer said:
Try stopping by the Formulary as you go south from Glacier Park.

PE

Buy your chemicals and save on shipping, especially on the liquid chemicals like Pyrocat HD in Glycol and TF-4/TF-5.

Photo Engineer · Jul 4, 2019

Well, I meant the people. They are nice and they have a great B&B.

PE

Sirius Glass · Jul 4, 2019

Photo Engineer said:
Well, I meant the people. They are nice and they have a great B&B.

PE

That too. And great opportunities for photographs.

DREW WILEY · Jul 11, 2019

Lewis & Clark Hwy across Idaho and into Montana - a bit slow but wooded; few facilities. Avoid the Freeway through Boise; it's about as interesting as Hwy 99 to Bakersfield, and just as hot. Going clear to Glacier NP and back is doable, but a lot of LONG days just driving. So I don't really recommend going that far and back on your schedule. There is plenty to see going up the coast to Astoria, over to the Gorge and into eastern Oregon John Day country, the Blue and Wallowa Mtns, perhaps a peek nearby at the Snake River and Hell's Canyon. The Palouse is across the Columbia in SE Washington. The drive up Steens Mtn in SE Oregon is magical if you want to come back to Calif at Goose Lake and then toward Mt Lassen. Steens Mtn is where the Nez Perce gathered for their big rendezvous. My Great Grandfather lived with the Nez Perce after he lost an arm to a cannon ball in the Civil War. He was the authentic character behind the Dances With Wolves novel; but that's a long story, highly altered for sake of the novel and movie, of course. Then he pioneered Bay City on Tillamook Bay where the cheese factory is. My Grandmother lived right down the road amidst thousands of acres of old growth temperate rain forest. I spent summers there; wonderful and wet, wet, wet. Seafood? We caught it ourselves, abundantly. Cheese was free because she was a partial heir to the operation. They milk holstein cows there, not pumas.

Road Trip - Oregon, Washington & Montana

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