Ricoh KR10.

[PaperNoire]

So I'm thinking about getting a Ricoh KR-10. The (first?) edition, (as in, not the Super or any of the other ones that came after the KR-10 first edition (?) thing), and was wondering if anyone who owns one / has owned one could give me a pros/cons style review, without telling me which other camera I should buy instead (sorry, just wondering about the KR-10 right now!)

 

[wombat2go]

Hi Paper
Yes I have a KR-10, a KR-5 Super2, and a XR-2

My favorite camera of the Ricohs is the KR-5 Super2, because it is the newest, while it is the smallest, simplest most basic manual shutter only camera, with LED exposure indication so I like to use it

The problem I have with the KR-10 is that the black
match needle is almost invisible in lower light, right when it is needed for manual exposure.
It is shrouded from the main vf.
These days I can't use it for that reason, but I have had it for many years and it also was a problem when my eyes were younger.
If you want to use auto mode, this is not such a problem.

Now the XR-2 is an older camera but similar to the KR-10 having an auto mode as wall as manual shutter.
It had more features than the KR-10, including an eyepiece shutter for long exp, a DOF button, and a lock release for the iso/ev wheel.
( on the KR's it is easy to accidentally bump the iso wheel off its setting)
The XR-2 has a larger green transparent needle that protrudes out into the vf, a lot easier to see.
So after the KR-5, I would recommend the XR-2 before the KR-10

 

[BMbikerider]

My lasting impression of the Ricoh models (My ex KR10) is the crashingly loud shutter operation. It doesn't cause vibration it is just LOUD!

 

[2bits]

I have the KR-10 and the XR-2, and I highly recommend the XR-2 over the KR-10.

 

[pen s]

I have a Sears KS500 with it's 50mm f2 lens and am impressed with this simple SLR. Checking for instruction books I see it is a KR-5 marked and sold through Sears. The only operational problem is that I left eyed so the advance lever stand-off pokes me in the forehead, and I cannot leave the lever in as it locks the shutter button and turns off the meter! Otherwise a great knockabout 35mm SLR that was only $5 at a camera show/sale.

 

[elekm]

I only have the KR-10 Super, and I agree that the shutter is very loud. I've always felt it was louder than it needs to be. It might be because of the prolific use of plastic throughout. At the least, no money, development or materials went into damping the shutter.

The meter display on the right side of the viewfinder is entirely electronic, which includes a dark gray (probably about 80% black) bar set against a shutter speed scale against a light gray background. In daylight, the "needle" is easy to see. In darker conditions, it's a bit of a struggle.

My camera is in very good condition, and it's a nice backup K-mount body. You just wouldn't want to use it where discretion is needed.

 

[Truzi]

Sorry, I can't speak for the KR-10. I've the Sears KS-2 (Ricoh XR-7) and I do like it. I've been considering an all-manual model that takes the k-mount lenses as a backup. Ricoh's are quite capable cameras.

This page won't give user experiences, but you may find some of the information interesting:
http://www.drricoh.de/SLR/

If it is similar to mine, the only real complaint I have is that the meter is LCD and there is no back-light, so it can be difficult in low-light situations. Also, expect the foam light seals to have degraded by now and be in need of replacement, and little bits of the foam can stick to the shutter and cause issues. I cleaned mine well, and used felt and wool yarn as replacement light-seals.

A lot of the Ricohs of that era are similar, and I may have a KR-10 for parts somewhere, but haven't used it.

 

[Roger Cole]

I had an XR2 for years. Loved it. The rewind knob broke, and it would cost more to repair than another one, so I bought another off eBay - and the seals went bad. I got a kit to replace them but didn't dare it (anybody do it CHEAP? Like less than I paid for the camera? If I supply the seals?)

It's definitely built consumer grade but is just such a well thought out, fully featured and nice handling little camera. In some ways I even preferred shooting with it (when it worked) to my LX, if for no other reason because the XR2 has AE memory lock.

 

[Nathan Riehl]

I have a KR-10. It's simple. That's all I can say. I haven't had many experiences with it. I have a Vivitar 28-105mm F/2.8-3.8 and an Auto Sears 50mm f1.7 MC. I have it laying around, so honestly, I'd sell the kit. I just feel like I don't stray from the Nikon F-Mount system enough to have another set. K-Mount lenses are fantastic, but I'd rather just have more F-Mount lenses to use with my Nikon bodies. If I had the same lenses I have for K-Mount in F-Mount, I'd be happy as can be.

 

[albcamp]

I have a dozen different Ricohs. My favourite user is the XR2S. Totally subjective, I'm sure. It just fits my hands nicely. Aperture priority and manual are all I need.

 

[blockend]

I got a kit to replace them but didn't dare it (anybody do it CHEAP? Like less than I paid for the camera? If I supply the seals?

You've probably been told this before, but replacing seals is incredibly easy. It demands patience rather than skill, I change them on old SLRs as a matter of course.
Scrape the old gunk out with something like a cut down cocktail stick, clean the remains with a thinner - it doesn't have to be clinically clean, the new foam will seal the remains in place (I use methylated spirit, but nail varnish remover would do), and work the new seal slowly along from one end, remembering to cut a gap for the frame counter top left. An experienced hand could probably do one in twenty minutes at a push, but put some soothing music on, pour a glass of something nice, and take an hour thinking beautiful thoughts about restoring a camera from the junk pile. Some foam is so perished you can miss the removal stage and lay the new stuff on top. Don't use force at any stage, and you'll wonder why you never did it before.

 

[Roger Cole]

You've probably been told this before, but replacing seals is incredibly easy. It demands patience rather than skill, I change them on old SLRs as a matter of course.
Scrape the old gunk out with something like a cut down cocktail stick, clean the remains with a thinner - it doesn't have to be clinically clean, the new foam will seal the remains in place (I use methylated spirit, but nail varnish remover would do), and work the new seal slowly along from one end, remembering to cut a gap for the frame counter top left. An experienced hand could probably do one in twenty minutes at a push, but put some soothing music on, pour a glass of something nice, and take an hour thinking beautiful thoughts about restoring a camera from the junk pile. Some foam is so perished you can miss the removal stage and lay the new stuff on top. Don't use force at any stage, and you'll wonder why you never did it before.

Based on the instructions that came with the kit and looking at the camera I can't even tell where they all go!

 

[Truzi]

Roger, here are a couple links that may help. They are not for a Ricoh, but the concept, and placement of the seals, should be the same. It is on my Sears KS-2 (Ricoh XR-7).

http://mattsclassiccameras.com/light_seals/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PnwT-cdydJA

It's important to mask off the area near the shutter so as to not get any debris in there.
I used toothpicks (wooden and plastic) to scrape out the old foam, and a bit of solvent on Q-tips to clean things a bit. I did not use a kit, or even foam, though may revisit my repair in the future.

For the channel (groove) in the body I used wool yarn. I cut a thick piece of felt for the area where the rear door is attached to the hinge. If you see no foam there, you're likely to see residue in the spot it used to be.

The less-brilliant thing I did was to use rubber cement to hold the yarn and felt in place. I applied it in the channel with a toothpick. Many kits have self-adhesive foam, so that should not be an issue. The reason I used rubber cement is that it can be removed easily if I did something wrong or decided to re-do it. I cleaned up the mirror-box area, but did not replace anything there yet.

So far I've had no problems.

 

[blockend]

You may not need adhesive foam. I use sticky and plain and once you get either in the channel properly, they aren't going anywhere once the back has been closed a few times. Same with string or wool, closing the back compresses it. Just make sure it isn't so thick as to strain the hinge, or hairy to mess with the shutter. Camera seals are not an exact science, hence the use of a lousy material like foam to make a light tight seal. Mirror foam is slightly different, I would use an adhesive version first time round but double sided tape will do the same job.

If you apply the wrong piece of foam in a channel, just butt another section up against it and cut to length. I replaced a few camera seals with the remains of other kits, short lengths strung together like sausages and they're completely tight.

 

[PaperNoire]

I have a Vivitar 28-105mm F/2.8-3.8 and an Auto Sears 50mm f1.7 MC. I have it laying around, so honestly, I'd sell the kit.

If you're interested in selling the camera and lenses (I would prefer to just get the 50mm with it, but alas, if you do want to get rid of both) - then PM me pal, I reckon something could be arranged

That is, if you can find it, and perhaps give it a little test? Cheers.

And thank you to everyone who's replied, always appreciate the awesome advice you get here