RH Design Analyzer Pro - Calibration issues

[Jessestr]

Used a durst M670 with the suggested Ilford grades in the calibration manual for Durst. Max 170 (color head)

So I got my analyzer pro and tried to calibrate it, did about 6.5 hours to do it and the values were so strange compared to the suggested settings.

I used the latest calibration manual with the stouffer wedge and I cleared the offsets so I started from 0 offset on every full grade.

So I measured with the head at full height, no negative, no filter and smallest aperture (f45) and had to put it open to get an exposure between 10-20 seconds. This gave me 11 seconds on f11 grade 2 (on the screen)

So to start measuring exposure offset for 00 I put the analyzer on 00 (and also the enlarger) and the time decreased automatically. Then I started the teststrip mode, first exposure, not covering anything, second exposure covering 1/7th of the strip etc etc..

(see attachment) Got a teststrip... Was too dark, so I had to stop down the lens to f16 (note -1 stop). Then I got a teststrip that looked like the D=0.0.4.. However there were always slight differens, or not always perfect looking like it. So from grade two I switched to 1/12th instead of 1/4th for 00, 0 and 1. (note: I didn't always did the last test exposure, since it was too dark anyways).

So I had to stop down my lens quite a bit when I was increasing the grades:
0, 00 and 1 = -1 stops (measured at 1/4th)
2, 3 = -2 stops (measured at 1/12th)
4, 5 = -3 stops (measured at 1/12th)

The exposure offsets
0, 00, 1 = -21
1, 2 = -27
4,5 = - 39

You can see my calculations at the right side of the attachment. As you can see, my offsets got quite ridiculous. Still however I continued and did the gradation control too. which I had a range from 60-15 (00 to 15) which is also ridiculous.. (I also had to put the column down because I was getting 130-200 second times to get the wedge dark at number 2 even at f5.6 and grade 00 which is wide open for my lens)

I made a few testprints and they were bad (ofcourse). So I put in channel 2 the settings that are suggested for the paper and made a testprint and almost looked okay instantly. However, it should be finetuned.

What did I do wrong? Should I have started with the default values delivered with the calibration manual or? It's really confusing since I read the manual so many times before I started and during the process. Strange thing is I had to stop down for EVERY exposure and every exposure was -3 off centre...

 

[R.Gould]

There is lots of help om the RH designs website, I don't know how it works with a color head, but for the papers I use.(Adox MCC 110) I use the calibration settings for the now defunct Agfa MCC paper, which to all intents and purposes is the same paper. The analyser comes set for MGIV, so my suggestion is to look at using the settings for various settings that come with the Analyser,I find they work well, You may have to find the calibration settings for the new MG Classic, but a good starting point is the ISO (R) figres that come with the paper, for Instance I used the published ISO figres for Foma Varient paper. plus the the second set for Fomatone paper, and it worked for me, same for MG Classic used the ISO from the sheet for the contrast and the Offset for MGIV FB, had to make a bit of adjustment to offset, but it works fine. The Analyser/pro is a fine bit of kit and when you get it set up it will save you a lot of paper. 99%of the time I get a fine print first time using, the other 1% it needs very slight adjustment
Richard

 

[Jessestr]

There is lots of help om the RH designs website, I don't know how it works with a color head, but for the papers I use.(Adox MCC 110) I use the calibration settings for the now defunct Agfa MCC paper, which to all intents and purposes is the same paper. The analyser comes set for MGIV, so my suggestion is to look at using the settings for various settings that come with the Analyser,I find they work well, You may have to find the calibration settings for the new MG Classic, but a good starting point is the ISO (R) figres that come with the paper, for Instance I used the published ISO figres for Foma Varient paper. plus the the second set for Fomatone paper, and it worked for me, same for MG Classic used the ISO from the sheet for the contrast and the Offset for MGIV FB, had to make a bit of adjustment to offset, but it works fine. The Analyser/pro is a fine bit of kit and when you get it set up it will save you a lot of paper. 99%of the time I get a fine print first time using, the other 1% it needs very slight adjustment
Richard

Thank you.

Should work with color heads. The settings for the color head are in the manual. I read something about the ISO (R) thing.. but don't understand it fully. I'm not native English and some parts are written in a way that I don't fully understand. I'll check it again. I'm using Adox MCP .. and planning to get Adox MCC too to get into fiber. Also planning to change my developer... so I will have to recalibrate upon changing developer too right?

 

[R.Gould]

If you read the paper that comes with most papers you will find a list of iso numbers, one is isp(P), which you don't use. use the ISO(R) list for the settings. For the Adox settings just use the Agfa calibration, same the paper was re created by adox when Agfa went bust a few years ago and is for this purpose the same paper, I use the Adox fibre and all I did was put in the agfa calibration and it works fine for me, so use the MCP figures for now and when you get into the Fibre paper put in the MCC figures in a different channel, should work fine, at least give you a good starting point, For more info go onto the RH Designs website where there a figures for a load of different papers, some sent in by other users, videos to help you get the best out of the machine Ect, as far as changing calibration when changing developers.no need, I use at least 2 different developers, one Fotospeed WT10 for warmtone and Firstcall paper developer (Re branded Rollei developer at half the price) for neutral tones, never had to alter the Analyser,the developer makes no difference to the exposure, I have been using the analyser for a lot of years,mine is an older version than yours but it is the best investment in the darkroom that I ever made. so, to round it up, use the settings provided by RH Designs and go from there www.rhdesigns.co.uk

 

[Jessestr]

Found out that my user setting for test strip was in separate instead of incremental... Didnt know about this. This solved my problem. Still got big offsets (-18,-15 etc) but they work quite nice

 

[Ome Kees]

Offsets in the -30's are not uncommon for this apparatus.

 

[Rolfe Tessem]

Once calibrated, this device is awesome. It has already saved me untold amounts of paper...

Rolfe

 

[LarsAC]

If I remember correctly, you want to find the first off-white area to determine the offset.

First patch on your teststrips look quite dark already compared to mine. Do you get bright highlights on your positives?

My understanding of the system is, that the darkest spot measured on the negative will yield a print tone like the patch used to determine the offset.

Lars