old thread but still:
I have 3 Revueflex SD-1: shutter works fine without battery inserted.
Why three of the same: easier to change camera/lens as a whole than changing lenses on a single body ...
These bodies are so cheap and light as to consider them als "slr lens caps" ...
I thought this as well but then I bought my CS (for ten bucks) which is by no means a high end camera, and it seems solid enough with a fully functional light meter.You can and should do better than this.
It’s not the worst M42 camera ever, but any of the Fujicas, one of the earlier higher end Chinons (Memotron with 2000 speed shutter for instance) in good condition or the Zeiss Ikon or Voigtlander version of the TM are amongst the best and most reliable choices.
The lower end Chinons, eastern block cameras, and Vivitar/Cosinas, while they have good aspects and a certain charm, all have a chintzy feel to them, have generally badly aging light meters and are just not worth the money saved for a better model.
I have two (guess where the second came from?).I thought this as well but then I bought my CS (for ten bucks) which is by no means a high end camera, and it seems solid enough with a fully functional light meter.
After 1978 the Fujicas got their X.bayonet, and these lenses are not the most common ones.It’s not the worst M42 camera ever, but any of the Fujicas, .... are amongst the best and most reliable choices.s
The Fujicas are among the very last “worth talking about” M42 cameras.After 1978 the Fujicas got their X.bayonet, and these lenses are not the most common ones.
It is my experience that some cameras respond extremely well to the PX625A alkaline replacement battery. You just have to be able to set the film speed with an external meter because they're all different in regards to how much a full alkaline battery will offset the meter from the correct exposure. Most underexpose by a stop-and-a-half with a new battery and overexpose on a flat battery.Or the branded export and/or own-brand versions of the Praktikas.
Just all of them have either no meter or are requiring the mercury battery for metering only - except for the last version MTL-5B which works with LR/SR-44 batteries.
If the OP is interested in the version with Pentax-K mount it is called the Chinon CM-4 but it is much more rare and it might be smarter to go for the Chinon CE-4 which is virtually identical except having aperture priority, shutter times from 1/1000 to 4s but requires a battery to operate the shutter. Just keep the camera in manual mode.
As for Prakticas, I don't recommend the TL3 Super, since it's a flimsy camera with a horrible sound, low top speed and one of the worst viewfinders I've ever seen on a 70's SLR
Still an awful viewing screen. I have no doubt it's better than earlier Prakticas. My other Prakticas were FX series so it'd hardly be a fair comparison, but I can imagine how bad they were on the late 60's models.I am confused as all Praktica L-series cameras have got the same chassis and basically the same shutter. But the Super TL got an upgraded viewing screen.
Doesn't it simplify the manufacture to omit the top speed? Surely even on a metal blind shutter making the smaller slit for 1/1000th takes tighter tolerances and thus makes a higher part rejection rate.That some Praktikas of the L-series got a 1/500sec and others a 1/1000 to me is just a marketing idea by Pentacon to stagger their portfolio, but there are Praktica experts here who would know details better.
If you mean Copal, they finished it in the early 60's. Nikkorex F ran alongside the Nikon F with a brand name Copal Square.CZJ finished eveloped and started using thier famous metal shitter from the early 1970ies until 1990 or so.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?