Reversal Processing of C-41

Flowering Chives

H
Flowering Chives

  • 1
  • 0
  • 20
Hiroshima Tower

D
Hiroshima Tower

  • 2
  • 0
  • 26
IMG_7114w.jpg

D
IMG_7114w.jpg

  • 2
  • 0
  • 66
Cycling with wife #1

D
Cycling with wife #1

  • 0
  • 0
  • 62
Papilio glaucus

D
Papilio glaucus

  • 2
  • 0
  • 53

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
198,193
Messages
2,770,859
Members
99,574
Latest member
Model71
Recent bookmarks
1
Joined
Nov 23, 2007
Messages
712
Location
Washington D
Format
Multi Format
A few years back I used to have fun doing reversal processing of C-41 film using this method:

develop in whatever B&W developer I had lying around

wash

re-expose to light

develop in C-41 normally (tetenal or other )


The results weren't anything special, but it was fun

yesterday I decided to try a new twist:


developed the C-41 film in HC110 dil B

acid stop, then wash

re-expose to light

dry

re-spool into film cassette & drop off at local one-hour photo place

Well, the film was a positive with the usual orange-ish tint & the prints were negatives....but they were all blue/cyan with no other colors

So...what prevented colors from forming?

was it my acid stop or something else?
 
OP
OP
Joined
Nov 23, 2007
Messages
712
Location
Washington D
Format
Multi Format
negatives don't seem to have any color except the orange filter layer

some of the photos were shot through a variety of colored gels...but all the frames have exactly the same tint

it must be my developer choice, the acid stop, or aliens messing with me

I do recall reading that a component of B&W developers can inhibit dye formation...but don't remember what it was....I DO think I've used HC110 before....but I never used an acid stop

loaded up the camera with fresh film to try again

unless I have some epiphany I'll do it again with a water stop
 

Photo Engineer

Subscriber
Joined
Apr 19, 2005
Messages
29,018
Location
Rochester, NY
Format
Multi Format
The stop should make no difference. It was the printing process that was faulty. Also, use of HC-110 vs most any other B&W developer should make no difference unless you didn't develope all 3 layers equally and this is often difficult due to the thickness of the film.

The best first developer for this type of situation is E6 first developer at 100F for the required E6 development time. That will evenly (pretty much) develop all of the layers in C41 film as far as any cross process is able to.

PE
 
Joined
Mar 31, 2008
Messages
485
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Format
35mm
The stop should make no difference. It was the printing process that was faulty. Also, use of HC-110 vs most any other B&W developer should make no difference unless you didn't develope all 3 layers equally and this is often difficult due to the thickness of the film.

The best first developer for this type of situation is E6 first developer at 100F for the required E6 development time. That will evenly (pretty much) develop all of the layers in C41 film as far as any cross process is able to.

PE

When I worked in a pro lab some years ago, to make a B&W internegative directly from a colour negative, I would expose the colour neg onto a sheet of Ilford XP2 film, and push-process it two stops in E-6 chemistry. That saved me having to first make a B&W interpositive on Super-XX or T-Max, and a B&W internegative on Pro Copy. Dust was always a problem, and the one-step method gave reasonably good prints.

The reason was to make a large run, like 2000 5x7 prints, for press kits and the like.
 
OP
OP
Joined
Nov 23, 2007
Messages
712
Location
Washington D
Format
Multi Format
The stop should make no difference. It was the printing process that was faulty. Also, use of HC-110 vs most any other B&W developer should make no difference unless you didn't develope all 3 layers equally and this is often difficult due to the thickness of the film.


PE

Since the negatives also have a monochrome look...perhaps it was uneven development of the layers...

it was HC110 dil B @ 78F for 6 min
 

Photo Engineer

Subscriber
Joined
Apr 19, 2005
Messages
29,018
Location
Rochester, NY
Format
Multi Format
Geez Louise!

C41 is 3.25' at 100F and C-22 used to be about 20' at 75F! E6 MQ is about 7' at 100F. I think you seriously underdeveloped the film. Looking at those figures and some for different developers in the Kodak B&W handbook, I would say that 12 - 14 minutes would be more in order for HC110B. The E6 MQ is a fogging, high solvent (relatively so) developer and much more active than HC110B.

PE
 

nickandre

Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2007
Messages
1,918
Location
Seattle WA
Format
Medium Format
I tried that a while back and considered doing what you did. I got low contrast gross looking color image and said yay! and that was that.
 

Photo Engineer

Subscriber
Joined
Apr 19, 2005
Messages
29,018
Location
Rochester, NY
Format
Multi Format
C-41 films in E6 should give a low contrast positive color image with a mask.

Kodak actually made a film for E6 processing that did that. It gave a masked, low contrast, positive intermediate film.

PE
 
OP
OP
Joined
Nov 23, 2007
Messages
712
Location
Washington D
Format
Multi Format
OK...got the results I wanted on 2nd try

prints with color negative images w/o the weird mask


nothing super amazing, but it was a fun way to use up the old film that was sitting around
 

Rudeofus

Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
5,067
Location
EU
Format
Medium Format
The best first developer for this type of situation is E6 first developer at 100F for the required E6 development time. That will evenly (pretty much) develop all of the layers in C41 film as far as any cross process is able to.
E6 FD is an incredibly concentrated and powerful B&W developer, and using it for 6:15 at 38°C/100°F would certainly completely blacken any B&W film. You need quite a strong soup to replicate its behavior with typical B&W developers.

Did you use HC-110 dil B at room temp, or at 38°C/100°F ?
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom