Reversal process on paper with usage of reversal kit from foma, foggy prints

Hello,

I'm trying to contact print's my 4x5 negatives into paper as negatives using the reversal foma kit [Foma reveresal kit link]
I'm using dilution as mentioned in data-sheet [link]

I swap foma developer to Ilford MG in 1+9 dilution, bleach and clear bath as in kit.

My times for the process are as follow:
1. Develop (Ilford MG): 60-90s (paper is totally black as expected)
2. Rising: 60s
3. Bleach bath(foma B): 120-180s (I get out my paper without any blacks, after turning lights it's yellow tint)
4. Rising: 60s
5. Clearing Bath (foma C): 90-120s (paper is perfectly white, as would just get out from package)
6. Rising: 60s
7. Re-exposure: 60s under my bathroom bulbs
8. Develop: 60s (paper gets fogg and gray look as on image bellow)

9. Crying over my gray and foggy paper...

This is how my paper look like after, step 8 (develop after 2nd time)


Couple of times I get absolute fair whites, but I can't find out how it happened... seems for me totally random


Question:
What guys are your fought ?
What I'm doing wrong, why my prints getting this nasty fog ?

The paper itself is not foggy I tested it out and gives perfect whites when doing positive contact prints without bleaching.
All chemistry is fresh, with full attention to bleach bath, understanding it short period of life.


I will appreciate any feedback and comments,

Regards,
Patryk Janota.

Is the fog appearing during the second development? If so, this is probably due to undeveloped halide left behind after the first development. That could be insufficient first exposure, insufficient first development, insufficient clearing, or a combination of those.

I haven't reversed paper in a long while, but when I reverse lith film, I factor temperature into my development time, and calibrate my exposure with my development time to get zero density with the thinnest part of the neg. This is usually the clear film between frames. (This is the opposite of making a print, which I base on the highlights, which are the densest part of the neg.)

The other factor is the clearing bath. It can actually dissolve solver halides, which is important with making b&w slides, where it helps give clear highlights. With film, it has to be controlled as closely as development, but it might not be necessary to clear highlights in your case, so I'd try clearing just long enough to remove the stain left by the permanganate bleach.

The other thing to try is just switching on the room lights once the print is in the bleach, and leaving them on. You want to expose the halides to the fullest extent. Likewise, second development can be much longer, because you can't over develop.