Revere Platinum - WINNING!

One side is slightly smoother...I'm using that one. All Pd with a bit of Na2. No tween. 60% rh.

Pd only, no tween, no Na2, smoother side of the paper. Coat, air dry til dull, finish with a warm hair dryer til the paper is dry enough to not stick to the neg, but still has some moisture in it.

Kerik said:

Pd only, no tween, no Na2, smoother side of the paper. Coat, air dry til dull, finish with a warm hair dryer til the paper is dry enough to not stick to the neg, but still has some moisture in it.

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Thanks Kerik, are you using the 30x22 inch paper or the 44x30". Also are you still preparing your FO like this :

'~27% solution - 6.75 gm FO, 1.2 gm OA and 0.5 gm EDTA (tetra) to make 25 ml'

Anyone tried using fumed alimina or fumed silica on this paper.

I have been using Arches Platine, and wanted to try a replacement paper. (see graph at link for effect obtained using fumed silica on Revere Platinum.)

My understanding is that fumed silica is somewhat alkaline, while fumed alumina is somewhat acidic. Again, any thoughts appreciated, as I will probably order the silica and paper from B&S at the same time.

Thanks.

I use the aqueous solution of fumed silica from B&S as part of my normal workflow. I use the double weight paper only. I tried the powdered fumed silica and found that it was impossible to avoid residual brush strokes and therefore have settled on the solution.

Mind telling me the ratio of fumed silica to water, and whether you added any acid to adjust the ph? (Also, how much solution did you apply per your standard print and its size?)

Thanks,

Nick.

1 volume FS:3 volumes water. 30 gm of FS is ~500 cc therefore 30gm to 1500 cc water. Mix in a blender for several minutes. I have not corrected for pH.

The nice people at B&S gave me the recipe over the phone.

I use a 1x4 inch foam roller...wet but not dripping...and roll lightly in multiple directions for several minutes until roller marks are no longer apparent, air dry, humidify, paint on the Pt/Pd, air dry, humidify and then expose.

Hope that this helps,

Kent

That's fantastic. Thank-you for that information; it is handy to know.

I tested fumed alumina on Revere dry and got some improvement on Dmax but not the general problem I had with that paper with blotchy mid tones and missing highlights.
I found that fumed alumina can be easily mixed with ethanol and then diluted with water. Wet coating had the same effect as dry.

I just finished a test with the latest generation of Revere paper. I guess we could call it ver.3. Legion sent this latest version to me a few days ago. They seemed to have got all the problems ironed out now.The best way to describe it would be a close match to the good 'old' version of Platine, in fact it mirrors it very well. It coats well, clears well the Dmax is great. This is straight out of the box (no pre-treat w/ acid). With ammonium citrate the tones are neutral and with potassium oxalate the tones are very warm (red brown) at room temperature. There is very little sheen. I used a reference print of the old Platine to compare it with and used the same negative as well.All indications seem to be that this can now become a good, predictable paper for platinum. Hats off to Michael Ginsburg at Legion Paper for his determination to make this paper work. I'm sure Dana will be receiving this latest version soon.

Good. Very promising results. I really hope they got it right this time. I really really liked the first batch until I got down in my stock of this paper and started having problems with the "spots". The kids have some expensive paper to color on. Can’t wait to give the new paper a try if it has all the good of the old and none of the bad!

Can anyone compare it to the second version? Is it warmer wiyh room temp K oxalate?

John Sarsgard said:

Can anyone compare it to the second version? Is it warmer wiyh room temp K oxalate?

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There are more than 2 versions. I have two from B&S that are distinctly different, and a recent batch from Talas that is significantly better than both of those -- the paper is whiter, has a smoother surface, and the sizing is less likely to get blotchy when processing pt/pd. I don't use potassium oxalate so I can't comment on the image tone.

Revere Magnani version 3

Based on Stan Klimek's input, I was compelled to try what I will call version 3 of this paper. Talas has suspended sales of previous versions, and is waiting for this. They may have it by now. New York Central got their last shipment in the Summer, and I suspect it is version 2. Bostick and Sullivan has plenty of v3 in the heavy (300 gsm) version. I am almost out of v2, so it was time to find some v3 and test it.

When was the last time you saw a paper changed twice and get better each time? This one has! The front of the paper has less sheen and more texture than v2. The back is smooth by comparison. I looked at a sheet on the light table and saw none of the dark spots we saw with v1, and to a lesser extent, v2. I made a print on the front using a digital negative I printed last week on v2. Everything as much the same as possible. Even the same batch of ferric oxalate.

v3 is harder to coat. Dana at B&S told me to use a little Tween, but I forgot. I definitely will next time. Paper takes a LONG time to lose its wet sheen, and get dry enough to print. I wait for the sheen to go, then hang and blow with a fan. Took much longer than v2. Definitely Tween next time. Dry coated surface looked perfect. No anomalies of any kind. Clears very well. Dried down, just a hair warmer than v2, and I'm seeing just a slight bit more highlight detail than v2. That could be a red herring for all kinds of reasons.

My details: 60% rh. Coated with Pd and a small amount (1 drop out of a total of 50) Na2 2.5%. Developed in room temp (about 68F) potassium oxalate. Cleared citric acid, then two baths of EDTA + Sodium Sulfite.

I will try printing on the back next, for when I want less texture. I will definitely be using Tween. Dana is using 1 drop of 10% up to 8x10.

I will not need to change my digital negative curves or standard printing time.

Yippee! Try it.