Dunno, I guess I'm going to find out.What has been bothering me all the time is how do you know where the measurement is being taken? The instructions say that "aim to your subject". What if your subject is far away or is for example landscape?
The app I use also has spot capability (Light Meter Free in Google Play store). To be honest, the app was great, it was using a smartphone that ruined the process. It seemed my phone was always locked when I needed it (tappity tappity to unlock it) or the screen was washed out in bright sun, etc. But, the app itself worked great and gave me good results.My LuMu light meter on my Iphone has a spot metering ability.
Then you use the large format photographers trick (although I think they learned it from Edward Weston). Look at the light that's on your main subject and what's important to you in the shot, whatever it may be and however far away. Then look around for a similar value near you. It might be the grass (excellent middle value). a shaded area, the palm or your hand, etc. If you set your meter for that, there you go. Works every time.The instructions say that "aim to your subject". What if your subject is far away or is for example landscape?
Dunno, I guess I'm going to find out.
I don't see it as any different than the smartphone meter app I've been using. Which, btw, has resulted in mostly spot-on exposures. I'd stick with it if using it (app+phone) wasn't so tedious.
They do have the spot-meter version, which may address your concern, but I was trying to get away from a handheld device.
Then you use the large format photographers trick (although I think they learned it from Edward Weston). Look at the light that's on your main subject and what's important to you in the shot, whatever it may be and however far away. Then look around for a similar value near you. It might be the grass (excellent middle value). a shaded area, the palm or your hand, etc. If you set your meter for that, there you go. Works every time.
I’m interested to try Reveni’s spot meter.
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