Restoring my Kodak Mast View 8x10

Mahler_one · Jun 5, 2012

I am bringing my Kodak MV 8x10 back to original standards, and I have a few questions:

1. Was there cork on the slider bar that adjusts front shift and swing? If so, can you tell me where the cork was placed? Obviously the cork provides additional friction so as to keep the slider firmly in place.

2. I know that there was cork on the front standard...however, was the cork on the upright unmoving metal "standards", or on the sides of the lens board holder?

Much obliged for any help provided.

Elliot

DanielStone · Jun 5, 2012

cork/cork wouldn't allow for easy movements, so I doubt it.

I do remember cork on the front frame, but not on the standards themselves.

-Dan

doughowk · Jun 5, 2012

Elliot, mine only has cork on the front frame, not the standard. I also need to replace this cork since it doesn't provide enough friction to keep the movements in position. Let me know your progress, please.

Mahler_one · Jun 5, 2012

OK....my information from you and others suggests that there was cork on the front frame that holds the lens board. No information yet about any material on the front "slider"....Doug, Daniel, and any others....it was suggested, and I will follow such, that I purchase some very inexpensive thin sheets of cork with a self adhesive backing. Thin strips affixed to the sides of the front frame should supply(?) the required friction. The problems to be solved? Well, the front frame would slip and not easily "tighten" when the knobs were tightened against the frame. Very annoying to have to deal with a sliding frame that also would not always stay aligned correctly i.e., one side would be slightly higher than the other. The friction without the cork was usually enough for axis tilt....but not enough when carrying out front rise and fall.

BTW-Do either of you have problems with manually raising the frame for front rise....not talking about the vernier screw which makes small corrections easily. Every once in a while one has to raise the front frame more than anticipated-usually in taking photos of barns, etc., etc. With a heavy lens sometimes it is a bit of a struggle to push the frame up with my fingers! Hopefully the cork will keep the frame aligned so that raising the frame will be a bit easier.

Thanks for the help.

Elliot

DanielStone · Jun 7, 2012

Elliot,

because the KMV has no detent ball/pin to keep it centered, and the knob that loosens the frame to rise/fall also controls axis tilt, if there is no tilt required for the photograph, I used to simply run my fingers along the front standard to keep it parallel with it.

If tilt WAS required, I adjust for rise/fall FIRST, then apply tilt 2nd. If some extra tiny amount of rise/fall is needed AFTER tilting for scheimpflug, I'd just use the rise/fall screw for final compositional adjustment.

-Dan

Mahler_one · Jun 7, 2012

Hi Daniel:

I never need to loosen the knobs in order to accomplish axis tilt. Even without cork the friction between the metals keeps the plate stable. I wanted to apply the cork to have even more friction when using axis tilt, and to hope that the cork will allow the plate to be better secured when using the knobs.

Good suggestion about running one's fingers along the sides of the plate....I do the same basic action with the front "slider" when applying shift to be sure that there is no swing!

I have the cork ( about $2.00 at Michael's for a very large sheet with adhesive on the back ). Will cut and apply to the sides of the front plate. Report to follow.

Mahler_one · Jun 11, 2012

Recall that the large piece of thin cork with the adhesive back was purchased at Michael's for about two dollars. Cut to size, installed as Doug suggested on the sides of the front lens "plate". Needed to "work" the side standard a bit so that the edges of the standard fit over the edge of the cork...obviously the sides of the plate and standard must be next to each other with the cork between. I found that only the top half of each lens plate needed the cork. Then- perfect! The front plate has the additional friction that keeps the plate completely stable when tilting ( no real need to loosen the knobs very much Daniel ), and moreover there is no longer any sagging of the front plate to one side. Manual front rise needs a bit more effort ( would probably need a lot more effort if the bottom halves of each side of the plate had cork ) but the plate stays in place, and tightens down perfectly. Vernier rise and fall-no problem at all. Problem solved, and the difference in the use of the camera today was obvious. Set up in under a minute, etc., etc. What a pleasure not to have to worry about stability with heavier lenses mounted on the camera.

Thanks.

Elliot

carlj · Oct 7, 2012

Hi Elliot,

Hope your KMV restoration project is going well.

I've recently acquired a Master View and wondering about using rear swing. I can barely move the (round) "clamp lever's" that supposedly loosen the rear standard to allow swing, and when I do manage to nudge them loose towards the rear of the camera the standard remains firmly stuck in place. Does yours move at all?

Very helpful thread. Thanks.

Carl

Mahler_one · Oct 7, 2012

carlj said:
Hi Elliot,

Hope your KMV restoration project is going well.

I've recently acquired a Master View and wondering about using rear swing. I can barely move the (round) "clamp lever's" that supposedly loosen the rear standard to allow swing, and when I do manage to nudge them loose towards the rear of the camera the standard remains firmly stuck in place. Does yours move at all?

Very helpful thread. Thanks.

Carl

Hi Carl:

I have forwarded your query to Michael Smith who is an authority on KMV cameras. Let's wait for some advice before proceeding further and possibly making matters worse. My first inclination might have been to spray a small amount of silicon on the opposing surfaces and see if the action is freed up. However, best to wait for Michael. Let me get my camera out and take a look. Doug is an engineer and will also be able to help.

Elliot

Michael A. Smith · Oct 7, 2012

The problem is just accumulated dirt. Take the mechanism apart and clean. If you cannot take the mechanism apart, just loosen those levers and tap the bak with a hammer to get it to move, then clean under it. This is a common problem, but it not a big deal.

Michael A. Smith

Mahler_one · Oct 7, 2012

Gentle with the hammer....:}...don't get frustrated!

I cleaned up the opposing surfaces on my camera as well. Once clean there was still some "chattering" and grabbing as the surfaces moved against each other. A small amount of silicon spray was a big help.

Thanks Michael. I knew you would have the answer...

Elliot

RalphLambrecht · Oct 7, 2012

doug, if you and elliot have one of these cameras ,i better start looking for one too!

Mahler_one · Oct 7, 2012

Hi Ralph!

When will you be back in Florida? I can come with the KMV and we can photograph together.

Elliot

StigHagen · Oct 7, 2012

Wonderful camera. I have two of them

carlj · Oct 7, 2012

Thanks All for the advice re. getting the rear standard to swing. I've tapped the levers gently (rubber mallet), still very stiff. I have the exploded 'manual' showing the parts details so I'll get to work getting in there and cleaning.

If I may ask another question (I don't know if it's perhaps also related to the sticky rear swing). I've noticed there's a bit of vertical play where the 'L-brackets' that carry the rear standard along the geared focusing tracks meet the groove along the outside edge of the focusing track, thus allowing the standard to rock a bit back and forth. It's unaffected by locking down the rear focus knob. Admittedly, it's not much play, doesn't effect the ability to focus or image quality as everything is stable after the film holder has been inserted, etc. Could it be a problem (windy conditions, say)? Sorry if I haven't described what I'm seeing/hearing very well, but wondering if this is normal?

BTW, mine also came with a 5x7 reducing back and a half dark slide for making 2 4x10 exposures on a single sheet of 8x10, which I'm very curious to try soon.

Again, thanks.

Carl

Mahler_one · Oct 7, 2012

Hi Carl:

Can you be a bit more specific in what you mean by vertical play? The focus lock would prevent the standard from moving forward or backward of course. I gather that when the focus knob is locked that the camera does not move when the holder is inserted, and everything is in focus. Consequently one suspects that everything is in order. However, once more, Michael A. Smith is certainly the expert in all aspect of the KMV camera. Hopefully he will be able to answer your question..

Ellit

Michael A. Smith · Oct 7, 2012

I believe I understand exactly what you mean by the vertical play. That is one of the two spots on the camera where there can be wear. We have had duplicate parts made, but we need to keep them for ourselves as we have five or six Kodak Master View cameras. (One cannot have too many and most of those participating in this thread got their KMVs after seeing ours in a workshop.)

But if after you set up, lock everything and insert the holder, there is no movement, don't worry about it as there is no need to do anything.

Michael A. Smith

RalphLambrecht · Oct 8, 2012

elliot,
i got tickets to go home on jan 09 2013. see you then!

StigHagen · Oct 8, 2012

I have the same problem with one of my cameras, it rocks back and forth even if the focus is locked. I found it was the sliding focusing parts that is worn down. I also worried about this. I have another one that is like new condition, here the focusing is very smooth and no rocking back and worth. You may guess what camera I am using. If these parts are available to fix this Im interested

carlj · Oct 8, 2012

Hi Elliot,

I'm going to follow Michael's advice and not worry too much about it. Maybe not the best choice of words, but by 'vertical play' I was trying to describe how the rear standard can move (pivot) very slightly (I'm talking probably less than a mm but still enough to be noticeable) even after focus lock because the L-bracket attached to the rear standard does not fit snugly into the groove along the outer edge of the focusing track. Perhaps it's wear-and-tear or it was never a snug fit to begin with (assuming there's no other adjustment that would lock it down). However, in practice it's not a problem because the focus is set when the back is 'at rest', which it always returns to, despite the aforementioned play, when the film holder is inserted.

Again, it hasn't had any effect in the field just seemed a little odd as all other adjustments lock down tight.

I do appreciate all your help.

Thanks!

Carl

Mahler_one · Oct 8, 2012

Hi Carl: Appears to be the best approach. Surely Michael would know.

Best of luck.

RalphLambrecht · Oct 8, 2012

elliot and carl,
it's about time an engineer will join you and fix all thesw mechanical problems!See ya soon.

doughowk · Oct 8, 2012

My KMV is relatively tight which is good considering its almost as old as me. I couldn't find a KMV 5X7 reducing back, but was able to use one from a B&J. Been using the 5X7 format more so than 8X10.
Ralph, hope we Floridians can get together once you arrive this Winter.

StigHagen · Oct 9, 2012

How do you clean the camera? Just water or alcohol?

StigHagen · Oct 17, 2012

Do somebody have a link for the cork? I checked Michael's website but did not find it.

Restoring my Kodak Mast View 8x10

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency