Restoring case for Minolta Autocord

[punkzter]

I need to restore and restitch the case that came with my Minotla Autocord.

It's my understanding that I need to first condition the leather. I've never done this before, and wanted to make sure that I'm doing it right. Is there a brand of leather conditioner that anyone can recommend?

Also, here is a link to the photos of the case:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/dKfVY0C0j2S4Ltyo2

I'm assuming that the red section on the interior of the case does not get leather conditioner applied?

What about the lighter colored section in the interior, it looks like unfinished (?) leather? Do I apply the leather conditioner to that?

 

[Helios 1984]

Humm I believe the conditioner is to be applied on the outside only. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[John Koehrer]

Conditioner goes only on the outside. Some use Pledge, others Neetsfoot still others paste wax. Speaking ONLY of Neetsfoot, it's applied
allowed to soak into the leather and buffed out. I've only used it with partial success or partial failure if you prefer. Shrug!

 

[Helios 1984]

I'm restoring the leather case of my Topcon 35-L, after dumping the old velvet and un-stitched the leather parts, I've applied conditioner 4-5 times to revive the rock solid leather and it regained some flexibility.

 

[AgX]

From own experience as from contemplating I am most sceptical on leather curing compounds, both on the effect on the leather as on the camera.
Meanwhile scientific research confirms my scepticism. One study even rejects all tested compound used in professional restauration. I admit these studies have stronger requirements than a camera collector would have.

On the other hand I myself got leather photo goods where I am afraid to use them heavily in fear of harming them further. And I would love to have a working compound.

 

[Larry the sailor]

I've worked with leather for 40 odd years, both professionally and for fun.
Properly maintained good leather can last several lifetimes. But, once it is allowed to dry out and become brittle there is only so much you can do with it.
Lexol Leather conditioner is one of my favorite products. It's easy to use and won't generally leave an oily residue. Pure Neatsfoot oil is easy to over do and will tend to leave an oily feel to leather. Beeswax is also a good product to use.
When trying to "restore" old and dry leather go slow with the conditioners, apply a little at a time and let it soak in.

 

[Patrick Robert James]

I don't have 40 years redoing leather like Larry the Sailor, but I have found Lexol to be great with leather. With the requirements of just getting the case back in reasonable shape, that would be my choice. Personally, I would restitch the case before I conditioned it just to keep the conditioner off the lining. Another alternative I have found to work well is pure Aloe.

 

[pentaxpete]

I have the vary same problem !! i was given a 1960's Minolta Autocord all filthy dirty, case fell apart as stitches gave way -- I cleaned up camera inside and out -- all lens and mirror surfaces now like new but case in bits !

 

[faberryman]

I need to restitch my Autocord case as well!

 

[mgb74]

FWIW, you may want to see what those who restore antiquarian books use. I remember reading about a product, but can't remember what it was.

 

[Lajos]

I have the vary same problem !! i was given a 1960's Minolta Autocord all filthy dirty, case fell apart as stitches gave way -- I cleaned up camera inside and out -- all lens and mirror surfaces now like new but case in bits !

Hi,
My autocord mirror is in bad shape have to replace it. My stupidity is I took off all the 3 screw and removed the mirror. All settings gone. How can I put the new mirror into good position?

 

[Dan Daniel]

Hi,
My autocord mirror is in bad shape have to replace it. My stupidity is I took off all the 3 screw and removed the mirror. All settings gone. How can I put the new mirror into good position?

The mirror self-indexes. No tricks or shims or spacers. The bottom of the mirror goes in the slot and rests against the top/front surface of the slot. When you screw down both side tabs, their bottom surface is what the mirror should rest against. Tighten these screws fully so the tabs sit flat. There should have been a cross-shaped piece of spring brass behind the mirror- this part is to apply slight pressure to the back of the mirror keeping it set up against the three reference surfaces.

 

[Lajos]

The mirror self-indexes. No tricks or shims or spacers. The bottom of the mirror goes in the slot and rests against the top/front surface of the slot. When you screw down both side tabs, their bottom surface is what the mirror should rest against. Tighten these screws fully so the tabs sit flat. There should have been a cross-shaped piece of spring brass behind the mirror- this part is to apply slight pressure to the back of the mirror keeping it set up against the three reference surfaces.

Thanks! I didn't realise that first. Easy

 

[Ferdi]

http://www.stereoscopy.com/cameras/re-stitching.html