I agree with @StepheKoontz that untaping and retaping the film start is the only reliable way to have the numbers count up (as designed) and get the roll to lie down tight on the spool. That said, I've never used a device that that in the OP -- when I respool, I do it from hand to hand, in a changing bag or on a darkroom counter.
Ditto, and I find that if the spoils are always as close together as possible and tight then the chance of film bunching is really low.
The jig is a clever tool, though.
The jig may be more helpful for 116?
I have re-spooled a couple but the last 2 or 3 I just clip the outer most rings and holding it vertically sanded down about half the thickness of both ends. I use a 620 spool as a gauge. It takes about 5 minutes and don't have to worry about the bump or getting dust on my film from the changing bag. Some say the dust from sanding will get in there but if light can't I don't know how dust can, but I am new to this so others will most likely explain why I shouldn't.
If you have 116 and need it on 616 spools, or vice versa, I don't know why you'd need such a jig, any more than moving 120 to a 620 spool. If you have a 116 camera and you're trying to roll 120 film into the backing paper, you have a more complicated job anyway -- you need to start rolling the tail of the 116 backing, stop at the (tactile marked) end point of 120 film (shorter than 116 -- so you have to also mark the backing so you can see through the red window that you're done), unroll the 120 enough to untape and capture the head end of the film (centered!) under the 116 backing, then roll, handling two spools and a roll of backing without tangling or dropping the whole mess on the floor, until you get to the end of the 120 film, which you tape, centered, on the 116 backing before rolling up the 116 leader and taping down or rubber banding the leader start.
If you're starting from 70mm film, it's much easier, just like rolling 35mm into 828 backing. Cut correct length, roll up 116 tail to the end mark, capture the 70mm film end, roll to the other end of the 70mm strip, tape, and finish rolling up. Sprocket holes in the edges of your images, but WAY easier (got a 70mm film reel?).
I don't sand my 120 when I clip it -- on the rare occasions when I can't make a roll fit due to the couple mm extra length, I respool. The sanding dust is plastic, and strongly inclined to pick up a static charge from the sanding friction; it will then stick to everything -- until it doesn't. That lets it get places it shouldn't (like inside the camera via the backing or spool), places where light can't go, and there's no practical way to get rid of all of it.
I make sure it's clean before putting it in the camera. I have to sand the ends or it's too tight for the Medalist II, never tried any other 620 camera.
It just came to me that modern-day Apple Computer and its multiple connector styles is not unlike Kodak and its film format tweaks.
A couple of things.
First, some folks have a difficult time with changing bags, so, if you're one of them, build a changing box, with two lint free sleeves from a dark pullover, and some blackout curtain fabric, lining the inside or out of the sleeves.
One, you can make the light tight box in an hour or two, and you can choose to make it small or larger enough to process 4" x 5" film in three or four Kodak hard rubber tanks on a table/countertop.
You can, of course, also respool or/and, cut new film into smaller formats with a specialized trimmer off Bay.
Two, instead of sanding spools, makes ng static dust and general trouble for your camera and film, make a small wood frame that will allow you to put a fresh spool between the two sides and has a strong handle crank, like on an oldwold well, to turn the spool with
Once this is made, take a good steel hand scrapping card wide enough to easily span the topwtop of the spool holder and little by little, saw two parallel slots to allow the level lower edge of the card to finally find the final, correct trim depth needed for the modified spools.
These metal scrapers have very sharp burr edges that will act as shearing tools and allow plastic to be removed in thin scrapings, as you spin the spool and press down (or use a tight spring to force down) on the top of the card until the full depth of cut is made and no more plastic can be trimmed away.
You'll have to put the correct angle burr on the card, but two wide edges can be given four cutting surfaces, between simple filing down the edges for fresh burrs to be made at the correct angles for best results.
Basically this is a hand lathe, with a double cutter/trimmer, which is all you need to avoid putting abrasive sand and powdered plastic dust plus static anywhere bear your film, camera, etc
There are as many way of doing this as you can come up with, but this is my suggestion to start with.
Cheers and Good Health to all.
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