required shutter speed when tripod mounted

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hoojammyflip

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Some thoughts on tripod vibration and shutter speed:

Having seen the Charlie Kim studies on the Markins site my interest was piqued...after a bit of arithmetic, I realised the oscillations shown for the tripods mean that the resolution of the system is limited to 25lp/mm, ie contrast at 40lp/mm is 0%, so all my concerns about lens performance, enlargement limits etc are severely capped. Simply, 1/(2.amplitude)=resolution limit, for the scenario where the length of the lens is the same as the focal length (its worse for teles). Without mirror lock up, the oscillations are 0.02mm -> 1/0.02/2=25 (the factor of 2 is there because line pairs only need to overlap by half their width to achieve zero contrast, full overlap produces spurious resolution)

http://www.markins.com/charlie/report.html

If you want a tripod to reveal the capacity of a lens, it strikes me that the movement on the film should be less than the diffraction limited resolution/2. This means that the MTF curve for the lens will sit beneath the limits imposed by tripod vibrations. This can be achieved by one of two means a) reduce the amplitude of oscillation b) reduce the time the shutter is open, so that only a portion of the vibration cycle is recorded on the film. As a) is shown to be very difficult unless “bolted to a rock”, b) seems the viable alternative. Using simple harmonic motion, I came up with the following formula for obtaining the shutter speed t required for diffraction limit resolution to be seen:

Arcsin(fstop/1500.1/2.1/A)/w=t

In the Markins report, the amplitude of the vibration, A was 0.02mm without mirror lockup, and the frequency w was 10Hz. This is using a decent tripod and ball head and a 250mm focal length. This gives a shutter speed, t of 1/500s at f8, WHEN TRIPOD MOUNTED! This produces a vibration creating zero contrast at a frequency of ~200lp/mm which is the same as the diffraction limit at f8. If the vibration is allowed to go full cycle, ie shutter speed is 1/10s, then the resolution drops to A which produces 1/0.02/2=25lp/mm. [note: if you are going to put numbers through this, w needs multiplying up by 2.pi so its in rads.s-1 instead of Hz, also note that this is for a 250mm lens, so it works out as a "1/(2.focal length)|tripod mounted" rule, iff the relationship with focal length is linear]

You could substitute A for f_length/10000, where focal length is /mm. Handheld, w=3 and A =0.15 which produces t of 1/1000s "1/(4.focal length)|not tripod mounted" rule.

Once the shutter speed is so slow that the period of oscillation of the tripod is less than the time the shutter is open, then the full swing of the front element is recorded on the film and the absolute amplitude of the vibrations dictates the resolution limit of the system.

Unfortunately, the frequency of oscillations actually increases with a stiffer tripod set up. This is why there is only a factor of 2 difference between the speed required for handheld vs tripod mounted. The increase in frequency needs to be outpaced by the decrease in the amplitude of the oscillation. This makes me wonder whether instead of increasing the rigidity of my ball head, I’d be better off trying to reduce the frequency of oscillation by increasing the mass of the lens and camera, and by damping the connection between the camera and ball head. Indeed, I read in an old Zeiss camera review that for ultimate resolution, a hydro damped head which is not locked off outperforms a rigid setup. Indeed, maybe this report is what has sparked this thought-experiment.

One major caveat to all of this is that the test was done with a Hasselblad...where I guess the shutter is heavier than my ME Super’s, yet the mass of the two is not very dissimilar. From these numbers, I can see why people would complain about shutter vibration and look to heavy tripods.
 
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Steve Smith

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People appear to be able to make perfectly good photographs even hand held at shutter speeds around 1/60 or even lower so perhaps you are thinking this through a bit too technically!


Steve.
 

hpulley

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At the wrong shutter speed a tripod can be worse believe it or not because hand-held shots damp out a lot of the vibrations. At resonance frequencies tripods can be decidedly poorer for sharpness. If I'm going to shoot at 1/500 I'm going to do it hand held that's for sure. My main 35mm body is about 1.5kg with batteries so it isn't a weight issue and in fact I find a heavy camera is better for sharpness, especially since mine does not have a moving mirror and even the aperture closes down before the shot so the shutter is the only movement other than me.
 
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hoojammyflip

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you'd expect a heavier camera body to be better for vibrations, as long as the shutter has the same mass, as it will move more slowly for the same level of momentum
 

Q.G.

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It's why, believe it or not (and it's too bad that many don't) you must not fasten everything on a tripod as tight as possible. Fluid heads show the way: the ability to move allows a much steadier set up.
The energy in a tight setup can go nowhere, and the camera starts to resonate like a tightly wound string. The point where it is fixed tightly will act as a resonator, reflecting the vibrations back to where they came from. And with nothing dampening (is that a word?) the vibrations, it will keep vibrating for a long time.
Allow the energy to dissipate, spend itself by moving the joints fractions of thousandths of milimeters, working against the inertia of the tripod parts (or of the fluid in the case of fluid heads) and the vibrations will be much smaller and the thing will come to a rest very soon.
 

Sirius Glass

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The OP is over thinking this subject. Go out and shoot film. Use hand held when warranted; use a tripod when warranted. Both have been used successfully for years.

Steve
 

Steve Smith

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largely

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It's why, believe it or not (and it's too bad that many don't) you must not fasten everything on a tripod as tight as possible. Fluid heads show the way: the ability to move allows a much steadier set up.
The energy in a tight setup can go nowhere, and the camera starts to resonate like a tightly wound string. The point where it is fixed tightly will act as a resonator, reflecting the vibrations back to where they came from.
And with nothing dampening (is that a word?) the vibrations, it will keep vibrating for a long time.
Allow the energy to dissipate, spend itself by moving the joints fractions of thousandths of milimeters, working against the inertia of the tripod parts (or of the fluid in the case of fluid heads) and the vibrations will be much smaller and the thing will come to a rest very soon.

Yes, it's a word. It describes the act of making something damp (slightly wet) as your mom did with clothes prior to ironong.
The word that describes the restriction of excessive movement is DAMPING.

Larry
 

RalphLambrecht

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I always use a tripod, but then again, my exposure times are usually several seconds long. If the vibration is short, it has no impact, because the main exposure happens with a tripod already at rest again. The longer the exposure, the better the resolution? What a concept.
 

removed account4

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i have a tripod that rolls on casters and looks like a tree.
i never make any photographs without attaching my camera to that, especially
when i am shooting on the street. i have found that if you have your camera on a 6-foot rolling
tripod people never pay any attention to you.
i would make a photograph of it and post it here,
but i can't photograph IT without a tripod under my camera.
 

Q.G.

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Yes, it's a word. It describes the act of making something damp (slightly wet) as your mom did with clothes prior to ironong.
The word that describes the restriction of excessive movement is DAMPING.

Larry

Thanks!
It's one of those things that i will always get wrong, i think.

But i'm glad you knew what i meant.
Just like i know what you mean when you say "ironong", by the way.
:wink:
 

Sirius Glass

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i have a tripod that rolls on casters and looks like a tree.
i never make any photographs without attaching my camera to that, especially
when i am shooting on the street. i have found that if you have your camera on a 6-foot rolling
tripod people never pay any attention to you.
i would make a photograph of it and post it here,
but i can't photograph IT without a tripod under my camera.

I bet that is great for long hikes, since you can roll it instead of carrying it. :whistling:
 

Sirius Glass

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I always use a tripod, but then again, my exposure times are usually several seconds long. If the vibration is short, it has no impact, because the main exposure happens with a tripod already at rest again. The longer the exposure, the better the resolution? What a concept.

Ralph, when you state that you always use a tripod, perhaps you should also state that you do studio photography as opposed to street or nature landscapes [read: hiking in the Sierra Nevadas].

Steve
 

RalphLambrecht

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Ralph, when you state that you always use a tripod, perhaps you should also state that you do studio photography as opposed to street or nature landscapes [read: hiking in the Sierra Nevadas].

Steve

I always use a tripod, even when taking the attached images (God's studio), but I admit, I don't do street photography.
 

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removed account4

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I bet that is great for long hikes, since you can roll it instead of carrying it. :whistling:

it isnt' bad,
i usually go on long hikes with a hummer pulling it for me,
( or a golf cart ) ... as i said, use it mostly for street work, and everything for that matter ...
since i used to be a skater i realized it is even more fun riding it down a hill
... i do THAT more than i do the nature hikes

it kind of looks like this
http://www.calumetphoto.com/eng/pro...ra_stand_with_double_arm_and_ucb_base/cb2364k
 
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hpulley

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Again the silly thing is I only shoot 35mm and sub-35mm but I often hike with a 40lb/18kg pack so I could probably haul an 8x12 view camera with tripod if I really felt like it... instead I take 5 camera bodies and a bag of lenses from ultra wide angle to macro to telephoto as I never know if I'll be doing landscapes, waterfalls, animals, moss, insects, flowers, hikers, or what. Maybe that's part of my problem, I need to think "I'm going to take a picture of that waterfall" and not get distracted by eagles on the way...
 

Peter Black

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The late, great Barry Thornton said in one of his books that you should spend as much on a tripod as you would on a lens, since the tripod could be the deciding factor on how sharp the shot actually is. I've never managed to spend that kind of money on something like a Gitzo, but I feel my Manfrottos should be up to the task.

As for having the discipline of actually carrying them and setting them up? Well no, and that's one of the reasons I've just got rid of my Fuji GSW690III and will use my LF instead since there's no argument about needing a tripod for the LF. But hey, tripods, monopods, stabilised lenses -- I've got them all!
 

2F/2F

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I'd say that the required shutter speed for tripod use is a shutter speed that makes it worth the effort to set up the tripod in favor of a better exposure and/or a sharper print. You can figure this out via experience printing your negs, as long as you keep track of your exposures. I have never had a shake issue at any shutter speed on any tripod, FWIW. However, I do use MLU whenever it is available when shooting in ambient light, and it is rare that I use a focal plane shuttered camera on a tripod (my Mamiya 645 would be the only time, and I mostly use it hand held, using the RZ if I am going to bother to set up a tripod). When shooting in studio with flash (again, rare), I do not bother with MLU.
 

michaelbsc

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The late, great Barry Thornton said in one of his books that you should spend as much on a tripod as you would on a lens, since the tripod could be the deciding factor on how sharp the shot actually is...

Seems to me that Maris said in a post some years ago "The sharpest lens in your bag is the tripod."
 
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