If it takes 300ml to process a roll of film, you take 300ml of fresh Xtol, process that roll, and you get 300ml of fully seasoned Xtol. First of all, is this right?
No. Seasoning involves reaching a steady state regarding both chemical capacity and development byproducts like bromides. Developing a roll of film uses up chemical capacity and adds byproducts. The replenishment process does two things - by discarding 70 ml of used developer you reduce but do not eliminate the byproducts, and by adding 70 ml of replenisher you add chemical capacity. One round of that procedure won't leave enough byproducts in place for there to be a steady state.If it takes 300ml to process a roll of film, you take 300ml of fresh Xtol, process that roll, and you get 300ml of fully seasoned Xtol. First of all, is this right?
As I posted before, the difference in development times between stock X-Tol and replenished X-Tol will be approximately found by comparing the data sheet times for stock and 1+1 - but that is assuming a fully seasoned working solution.I was asking about difference between stock and replenished Xtol?
I agree with Sirius, although I have gravitated toward a larger container - about 1.5 litres - for my working solution.
Your "Batch Replenishing" will result in inconsistent film development, and won't give you the same tonality from roll to roll. Fresh as mixed X-Tol is more active than seasoned developer. It usually takes 4 - 6 rolls to fully season X-Tol in a replenishment regime. Once seasoned, your developing times will probably be close to the 1 + 1 times.
You probably could split your working solution into two smaller bottles for in-between developing session storage, as long as you combined the two before starting the next session.
No. Seasoning involves reaching a steady state regarding both chemical capacity and development byproducts like bromides.
If my working solution is 600ml I'm pretty sure it will season faster vs 2L or 100L, so that "6 rolls to season" advice is tough to apply.
I have a bunch of Svema film (expired in 1983) that I can waste/expose/develop, and I still do not quite get how to season 1L of Xtol in one day?
If you expose four to six rolls of your film to scenes with a variety of tones, then develop them one at a time, replenishing after each roll, you will be there. The first roll will have the greatest effect. Each roll developed thereafter will have less effect than the one previous - a graph of the results would reveal an asymptotic function.I have a bunch of Svema film (expired in 1983) that I can waste/expose/develop, and I still do not quite get how to season 1L of Xtol in one day?
Wanted to post an update for future researchers. So... the goal was to go from zero to fully seasoned state as quickly as possible without using real film to ramp up.
At this point I had 1L of somewhat-seasoned Xtol which had three 24exp rolls developed in it, one real and two 100% black junk rolls. It was unclear how stable it was though.
- Mixed up 5L of fresh Xtol using distilled water.
- Allocated 1L amber glass bottle to be my "working" bottle. I wish I had a bigger one, but for now 1L will do.
- Developed one 24exp roll of HP5+ in full-strength Xtol, always wanted to see how it will look like.
- Poured all of it back into the working bottle.
- Developed two fully exposed (100% black, I even loaded them in daylight without a bag) 24xp junk rolls using 600ml from the working bottle.
- Added 250ml of fresh Xtol to the working bottle.
- Topped it off with 350ml from the tank where two junk films were developed.
Then I took a 36exp roll of Foma 100 with less important working shots and developed them for 8 minutes (I came up with this time by looking at the delta between full-strength and replenished rotary times in Kodak datasheet, then I applied this delta, averaged across multiple films, to small-tank full-strength time for Foma 100).
It came out nicely! I haven't scanned anything yet, but I like what I see holding wet film in my hands.
Then, I added 70ml of fresh Xtol to my working bottle, topped it off with the used developer from the Paterson tank, i.e. followed Kodak's recommended replenishment amount.
Then I loaded the second 36exp roll of Foma 100 and also developed it at the same temperature for the same 8 minutes. The goal was to see if my working bottle is stable. The result came out identical to the previous roll. At this point I assume I have a stable fully seasoned 1L of Xtol. Phew... Looks like I'll have about 3-4 rolls of Ultrafine Extreme (my working film) ready to be developed by Sunday, so hopefully I'll see the magic with my own eyes.
Thank you, everyone.
Just a random thought: I suspect that "replenished Xtol" is unique to an individual. Some follow Kodak's recommended 70ml replenishment amount per 36-exp roll, others add more. Some of us develop more frequently, others let their developer to sit idle for more (which requires more replenisher between sessions). Perhaps that is why MDC does not list Xtol-R times perhaps because they are not easily reproducible?
- What difference in image quality can I expect to see, as compared to stock Xtol?
What adjustments to development time should I make? Xtol data sheet does not suggest different times, instead it offers separate table for "Replenished Xtol in large tanks" (as opposed to small tanks).
What do you think about "batch replenishing" (see below)
It’s plenty reproducible.
But what about time between sessions? Someone suggested (and you agreed) to add 70ml of fresh developer every two weeks if you do not develop any film. Doesn't this automatically mean that if I do, I need to add 140ml?
In other words, replenishing 70ml per film is going to work differently if you're doing a film per day vs a film every two weeks or once a month, no?
(asking because I am on once-every-two-weeks schedule and I figured I should be adding more than 70ml to compensate for 14 days of idle time)
One recommendation: Check developer strength.
You may make drop tests: Lights open let fall a drop of developer every minute on a film end, one drop at the side of the other, then fix. Make a drop test when developer is fresh and conserve it as a reference.
Over time, or over replensiment iterations, you may make a new drop test and comparing to the original one, comparing the effect of the drops that each has developed the film for a certain different time. Development is less intense that in the tank because lack of agitation, but the drop test is a good reference to see if developer strength has changed, or it's in shape. Many things can happen...
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