repairing Zeiss Nettar 517/16

[bhaning]

I have a Zeiss Nettar 517/16 with a couple of issues. First, the bellows door won't pop open. I can get it open by giving it a little nudge from inside the camera. Is there a way to adjust the springs so it will open easily when I press the release button? Second, the shutter, a Prontor SV-S, only works on 100th and 300th, at slower speeds it will twitch, but not open/close. Where can I find a video or written instructions to CLA this shutter. Other than those issues it just has some peeling paint on the trim around the edges of the camera. I not real worried about cosmetic issues now.
Ben

 

[BradS]

Have a trained professional CLA the shutter. Any decently competent camera repair technician ought to be able to do a decent job for less than $100.

 

[Kino]

Depending upon your level of grit (personal and camera-based), try this: https://www.flickr.com/photos/7699588@N07/sets/72157629497810706/with/6951165780/
OR
take the advice of BradS...

 

[SalveSlog]

The SVS shutter is rather more complicated than the Vario. (Just a warning

 

[Kino]

Yes, I missed that. OK...
Take 2: While its not the same camera, it IS an SVS shutter...

1955 RoLLoP I by Lipca - Prontor SVS shutter fix
https://imgur.com/gallery/GePMV6H

Anyway, take it from me; flush cleaning a shutter can be easy or a nightmare.

Some shutters clean up with no more than a bit of Naptha on a cotton bud wiping the blades, exercising and cleaning them repeatedly and then following-up with iso alcohol on a final pass.

Some work fine for a day after and then become gummy again; Some work fine for years afterwards...

Some will never clean-up in this fashion, as there is simply too much lubrication petrified and distributed around inside the shutter.

It's all up to the owner if they wish to pay the money and be done with it or if they are willing to take the chance and attempt the cleaning themselves.

If you can, take out the lens elements before you clean the shutter and don't put them back in for several days AFTER you are sure the shutter appears to be functioning. Let it dry properly or you'll be right back in there again...

 

[BradS]

...and if you decide to do-it-yerself, please do the next guy a favor and scratch your name into the bottom of the camera with a rusty 16d nail.

 

[Kino]

...and if you decide to do-it-yerself, please do the next guy a favor and scratch your name into the bottom of the camera with a rusty 16d nail.

Customization is another topic...

 

[BradS]

Customization is another topic...

...I about snorted my coffee...Well done and thanks.

 

[Kino]

 

[bhaning]

Thanks for the advice. Do you all have any suggestions for getting the bellows door to pop open? I may be able to get by with the slow shutter for a while, but I don't want to leave the bellows extended all the time. I'm not likely to use a folder that can't be folded/unfolded. I would like to fix the folding function first if possible.
Ben

 

[Dan Daniel]

Thanks for the advice. Do you all have any suggestions for getting the bellows door to pop open? I may be able to get by with the slow shutter for a while, but I don't want to leave the bellows extended all the time. I'm not likely to use a folder that can't be folded/unfolded. I would like to fix the folding function first if possible.
Ben

Any idea why it won't open? Bent metal binding in places? If so, reshape the metal (carefully).

Wipe down the struts and the springs and the pivot points with naphtha. A cotton swab will do it. Not soaking things but do be a little wet. You want the clean any residue off of the struts and get a little naphtha into the pivots. Operate it for a few minutes. Then a very light oil on the pivot points- use a fine brush. Again operate for a bit, then give every thing a good cleaning wipedown with cotton swabs with a small amount of naphtha- both pick up excess oil and also dilute the oil and get it deeper inside the pivots. Then a final wipedown with dry swabs.

Leave the camera open for a few hours after this to let the solvents evaporate.

 

[shutterfinger]

Posts 2, 3, 5 through 9 are pretty much urinating on your attempts to find repair information.
1. get a bottle of 90% Isopropyl Alcohol.
2. get a can of CRC QD Electronic Cleaner https://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-11-oz-QD-Electronic-Cleaner-05103/205021975
3. download the Prontor service manuals from my google drive https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B1sPJkp-MdghNGM1aGY5akgtTmc?usp=sharing
4. take a digital camera with macro mode and take good clear pictures of each part before and after you remove them to aid in reassembly.
5. use TriFlow https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Flow-Squeeze-Bottle-Lubricant-Teflon/dp/B00GC54OC2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=QRXQB2D6L8V5&keywords=triflow+superior+lubricant&qid=1568764060&s=gateway&sprefix=triflow,aps,238&sr=8-3 or similar light weight oil for the pivots and https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Premium-Grease-Fluoropolymer/dp/B002L5YYYA/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2C4EUQGT0GN2U&keywords=teflon+grease+for+bicycle&qid=1568764145&s=gateway&sprefix=teflon+grease,aps,252&sr=8-3 where grease is called for. A trace is a just detectable sheen on the surface of the metal, any more than a trace acts like glue.
6. clean all parts with the CRC and or the alcohol once disassembled then lube on reassembly.
OR
send it to a shutter repair tech.

 

[bhaning]

Dan,
I worked on the door binding problem a little today and it was the door latch tab that was not releasing. I took the top off the camera to look at the mechanism and put a small screw driver into the hole the release button fits into. Think I pushed too hard and bent the latch. Now the latch does not clip on to the lip on the door so the door falls open if I point the door down. So now I at least I can use the camera and I'll put a rubber band on the door to keep it closed. It looks like i'll need to do more disassembly of the top of the camera to remove the metal tab and straighten it. I'll work on it a little more this weekend. If I can't get the door to latch I can at least shoot a few rolls of film through it now that the door will open.
Shutterfinger,
Thanks for the shutter repair advice. I only have $30.00 invested in this camera so I don't have much to lose if I can't repair the shutter myself. I want to give it a try this weekend.
Ben

 

[shutterfinger]

That latch is made of spring steel. You can bend it back up with needle nose pliers to where it will hold and release. It will break if bent back and forth too many times.

 

[Nitmoi]

Dan,
I worked on the door binding problem a little today and it was the door latch tab that was not releasing. I took the top off the camera to look at the mechanism and put a small screw driver into the hole the release button fits into. Think I pushed too hard and bent the latch. Now the latch does not clip on to the lip on the door so the door falls open if I point the door down. So now I at least I can use the camera and I'll put a rubber band on the door to keep it closed. It looks like i'll need to do more disassembly of the top of the camera to remove the metal tab and straighten it. I'll work on it a little more this weekend. If I can't get the door to latch I can at least shoot a few rolls of film through it now that the door will open.
Shutterfinger,
Thanks for the shutter repair advice. I only have $30.00 invested in this camera so I don't have much to lose if I can't repair the shutter myself. I want to give it a try this weekend.
Ben

 

[Nitmoi]

I have a Nettar with a reluctant pop out and one that is a perfect popper. After a 10 mins of careful observation I discovered that the reluctant one just needed a firm twist of the whole assembly as it was a touch warped. It now clears the release mech and with a very light touch of oil on the joints it snaps to attention!