Repairing a Nikon DP12? Worth it?

[DavidClapp]

I was gifted an F2AS with a DP12 finder by a good friend in Jordan. It belonged to a deceased press photographer, its brassed up, but feels really great. I bought a 50mm f1.8 and I am ready to go...

So I re-foamed the entire camera, doing a top job, ordered some film and the DP12 has died before I could use it. I am gutted! All the red LEDs no longer function. I am technically minded, I have tested batteries and all to no avail. There is a circuit between the camera and the DP12 contacts, measuring just under 3v, but no life in the DP12, which was working perfectly and accurately.

DP12's seem to cost around £150, mostly on eBay from Japan, but am I right in thinking repairing such a thing is going to cost about as much as buying another second hand one.

This is my one 35mm camera so I am new to this... (and Nikon)

 

[awty]

Are you sure the contacts are clean and the dp is making contact?
You could rig a 3vlt circuit just for the dp to check the dp it self.
If its the dp then probably could just be a bad contact somewhere.

 

[DavidClapp]

Are you sure the contacts are clean and the dp is making contact?
You could rig a 3vlt circuit just for the dp to check the dp it self.
If its the dp then probably could just be a bad contact somewhere.

All contacts are clean. Yes I have even tried making small jumper cables with 2x 3v batteries to bypass the camera entirely, try to see if I can get a circuit... no luck.

 

[Chan Tran]

If you have fresh batteries the voltage should be slightly over 3V rather than under.

 

[Chan Tran]

The voltage should be slightly over 3V rather than under. In fact when I measure the voltage of the cell alone and if it's less than 1.5V I replace the battery.

 

[DavidClapp]

All new batteries are making no difference... I have six... thanks for all the helpful advice.

 

[Bikerider]

All contacts are clean. Yes I have even tried making small jumper cables with 2x 3v batteries to bypass the camera entirely, try to see if I can get a circuit... no luck.

Is 6 v not too much for the 3 v Circuits

 

[Dan Fromm]

Well, you'll need a finder and the DP12 will do for that even if the meter is dead. You'll need a meter. If you can do without TTL metering, there are many inexpensive hand-held meters. If you must have TTL metering, go shopping.

I have no idea who in the UK can repair a DP12 or how much a working metered finder for an F2 will cost. The DP12 isn't the only choice. This https://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf2/prisms/ lists the alternatives. Browse the listings ...

 

[Willyekerslike]

Dann Fromm wrote, "I have no idea who in the UK can repair a DP12".

Speak to Sover Wong, he is in the uk and does first class work on an F2. He has serviced all my F2 cameras and they come back working like new, finders included.

Cheers

 

[Swordman]

One of the reasons I became interested in film photography was because a lot of film cameras are repairable. Even if it costs the same as buying a new one, it's better to get it fixed. That way, the market has more finders and it ensures your one remains reliable.

We don't want a situation where repairable cameras get junked because it's cheaper to get another one - that will lead to a decrease in the total number of cameras for sale, potentially causing some models to effectively become extinct.

 

[jimjm]

As already mentioned, contact Sover Wong as he's the go-to guy for Nikon F2 repairs.
The DP-12 is the latest F2 finder and the one that's worth spending money on to get it fixed.
If you get it repaired, then you know it's going to be good for a decade or more. Buying another used one is no guarantee that it won't have problems a month or two later, unless the seller confirms it was recently serviced.

 

[awty]

If your feeling game you could pull it apart and see if its something you can repair yourself. My guess is its a simple loose contact that needs refixing. Cant find any pull apart guides for that finder.

 

[Chan Tran]

All new batteries are making no difference... I have six... thanks for all the helpful advice.

Use an ohm meter and measure the resistance between the battery compartment and the contact. If the resistance is sufficiently drop 0.1V when there is no load then underload it would drop a lot more. If the voltage is about 2.5V when underload it should be fine. But you can't make the measurement with the finder attached.

 

[flavio81]

I was gifted an F2AS with a DP12 finder by a good friend in Jordan. It belonged to a deceased press photographer, its brassed up, but feels really great. I bought a 50mm f1.8 and I am ready to go...

So I re-foamed the entire camera, doing a top job, ordered some film and the DP12 has died before I could use it. I am gutted! All the red LEDs no longer function. I am technically minded, I have tested batteries and all to no avail. There is a circuit between the camera and the DP12 contacts, measuring just under 3v, but no life in the DP12, which was working perfectly and accurately.

DP12's seem to cost around £150, mostly on eBay from Japan, but am I right in thinking repairing such a thing is going to cost about as much as buying another second hand one.

This is my one 35mm camera so I am new to this... (and Nikon)

That findes shouldn't die from one day to another.

Most, really most electronic problems are simply bad contacts. Corroded contacts, "cold solder joints". Last time i was repairing a Pentax MX and transplanted a known good meter circuit board into this Pentax MX and the meter on this MX refused to work or light up. I was getting desperate -- all the connections were right and the contacts seemed clean! Well. the battery cap, even though it looked clean, was making almost NO contact with the batteries...

Have you already disassembled the DP-12? it isn't hard to do.

I'd first be very sure the contacts between body and camera are working OK (measure the voltage that comes out from the pins that mate with the body from the inside of the DP-12). Check out that any brushes or wire is there and has not desoldered by chance.

If it still doesn't work you might want to try resoldering each solder joint.

Those electronics are very reliable and shouldn't die.