Repair manuals RB Pro S and lenses ?

archphoto

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Hello,

Anyone who can help me with finding the repair-manuals for the RB 67 Pro (S) and their lenses in .pdf ?

I know they are for sale at @bay, but still...

Tanks,
Peter
 

epatsellis

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Peter, let me know if you find them, I'm looking for a set as well.
 

xtolsniffer

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Don't get your hopes up, I paid for a set of 'repair manuals' and all I got was a set of very badly photocopied exploded views of lenses, no use whatever in taking the things apart! Also, the design changed between Pro, Pro s and pro sd, so manuals for one may not work for another....
 

EdColorado

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They pop up on Ebay once in a while. One is currently available, check auction # 220376582300. Has a buy it now of $19.90us
 
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archphoto

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I have found them on ebay allready, that is not the problem, the money they are asking is a bit...... that's why I was hoping somebody out here had .pdf's from them.

Peter
 

EdColorado

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Yeah thats always been my problem too, and is why I don't have one either. I've found nearly every other Mamiya manual online but not repair manuals.
 

paul ron

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Repair manuals for Mamiyas aren't very good regardless of where you get em from. I have the origianl sets n they aren't worth the paper they were printed on. Pictures aren't very good, text is translated Japaneese to English by a guy that took the Bill Murry English course.

What I used em for was part numbers n ordering from Mamiya. Now that those days are gonce, you just buy broken cameras n swap parts to make one work.

With the build of these beasts, they generally don't need repairs or parts, just adjustments that are intuative. Delrin rollers can't be ordered anymore so you'll have to make some parts. With enough exposure to the insides of these cameras, you can basically know what to adjust since they have so many places to make adjustments.

Backs take a bit more technical knowhow n the manuals have some tips of adjsutment points but not very reliable as there are so many versions of each. Most of the backs that I get to repair have been very heavily (ab)used n are beyond repair. Most of the amature cameras are the abused ones. Cracked castings form snapping the advace lever, broken springs because the back hasn't been serviced in a long timen they are forced, amatures don't care for their equipemnt since high maintenance cost is a factor. A few just need adjustments but these are rare n come from well taken care of cameras, used mostly by pros n amatures that love their cameras n have routine maintenance done.

Lens manuals, pretty much don't exist. Shutters weren't fixed by Mamiya, they were replaced. Pro shops did some repairs at the mercy of parts availability form Mamiya. You got exploded views of the shutters n went by that for some parts they may have on hand. There were a few people that made names in the business specializing in em but charged handsomly for the service, mostly LF equipment repairmen. I did n still do as long as they come out of older lenses n the parts it needs aren't too hard to find in my closet of broken shutters. Then Mamiyas went to stamped steel shutters n pinned moduels, with fewer replaceables, n now in the newer lenses, plastics that make em tossers.

So instead of buying manuals, buy a broken camera, open em up n compare working ones using your mechanical skills to figure out the problems.
 

beriguu

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Here is a picture series of RB body and lens tear-down by Mr. Joseph E. Forks.
I think I saw the original thread that lead me to this link on photo.net -> mamiya RB/RZ thread.

http://logojoe.com/RB-RZ/

cheers!
 
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archphoto

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Tank for the advice and link, Paul, I will go with this.

I will have to wait untill July before I can lay my hands on my RB gear, they are in Holland and I am in Brazil.

The shutters look pretty basic leaf shutters, so that should not be a problem for me.

Peter
 

paul ron

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Lenses come appart form the front to the back. The name ring, front cell come out like a light bulb, then the back cell. From the front it disassembles like a layer cake. Once down to the shutter mount, take the retaining ring off from the back n split the barrel. The shutter is held in it's mount by 3 screws in hte sides. One is the mirror up lever pivot.

Keep all screws organized so they don't get mixed up. Heads are different on a couple, lengths make a difference. I use a weekley pill organizer to store em in the sequence they came out.
 

epatsellis

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Paul,
I was hoping to get the "official" mirror dampening adjustment info as well, as other than obvious problems, it seems to be the one adjustment that a lot of bodies can use.
 

paul ron

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Is your mirror runing too fast?

The mirror is dampened by a centrifical govoner. If the govener is worn, has no effect at all, it gets replaced. Perhaps the lube in your camera body is old n dried n you're confusing it with mirror dampening?

Most RBs are never opened or never maintained unless there is a problem and now a days it gets throwen out. Not many people are willing to spend $125 on body work (old price was $275 just to open it). When it is properly greased it should be OK again. BTW change the internal seals while you are in there?
 

EdColorado

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Paul, how about focusing? Is there a way to tighten up the focusing action a bit on a ProS body? My ProS feels loose, if I tip the camera back the weight of the (longer) lens will compress the bellows. My older Pro body however has silky smooth yet tighter focusing which holds its position much better. Can I get the S body working the same way?

Thanks for your help,

Ed
 

paul ron

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The torque can be adjusted by taking off the side covers. You'll see the plate with the escentric screws. Tighten everything up, it may be loose, then take the play out by making the adjustments on each side.
 
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