I don't actually have a B. I have a T on the shutter speed ring. I tried that, but it didn't make any difference as far as removing the lens. I did, however see the shutter move. Unless I've totally confused myself, it's working backwards. It's stuck open and when I trigger it, it closes and then reopens. Maybe I didn't completely cock the shutter before mounting it. I know that's a bad thing, but I'm not sure what the consequences are.I had a Pro several years ago with a similar problem.
Start by verifying the Mirror release knob is in the normal position, manual page 29 of https://www.cameramanuals.org/mamiya_pdf/mamiya_rb67_pro-s.pdf
Cock and release the shutter on B and hold open. Open the roll holder and remove the insert then look through the camera, you should see the screen the lens is aimed at. Alternatively look through the front of the lens while releasing the shutter, you should see the shutter blades open and close. The Pro S has lockouts that may need to be defeated to accomplish this.
If the shutter does not operate it indicates that the shutter is not being cocked or the shutter is defective.
On the Pro I had the shutter was worn out. I had to take the bottom plate off and release the cocking drive gearing to get the lens off. I did not have a manual to work from.
https://learncamerarepair.com/product.php?product=10&category=2&secondary=22
Well, I don't think it can get any more difficult than this.FWIW, of the four lenses that I had for my RB67 Pro-S, the 65mm C lens was the one whose bayonet mount was the most difficult to release when it had been firmly mounted to the camera.
Can't it rotate at all. Like it's welded there. Mirror lock is not engaged, although I tried it to see what would happen. The shutter remained closed after I set that, cocked the camera, and pushed the release button. The camera 'fired', but the lens shutter remained firmly closed until I reset the mirror lock at which point the shutter opened and stayed open."...the bayonet ring won't budge".
Can't it rotate at all, or just not sufficiently to get the lens off?
Check 'mirror up' is not engaged. Remove rotating adaptor and magazine, cock and fire camera whilst observing ear of camera. Does the camera seem to be 'exposing' ?
If these cameras are working properly they are a 'breeze' to use.
Thanks. It basically confirmed the 'poke it with a stick' method and it showed the piece I'm supposed to poke. I'll have to try some more when I get a chance, though I'm no longer sure that solution applies to my problem, given the weird shutter behavior.I saw this about a week ago.
What do you think I should do, if anything?
I see this issue often on the RB67. If the lens lock ring is stuck at full clockwise (white dot around 3 o'clock), in 95% of the cases the issue is a dented lock ring. The dent may be barely or not visible at all. The technique shown in the mentioned video (which we produced) will only work if the lock ring white dot can be rotated counterclockwise to around the 1 o'clock position as that is where the locking latch contacts the lock ring. My solution is to use a large flexiclamp wrench to remove the lens. The dent then needs to be worked out or the lock ring replaced.
I don't really know my way around this site. How would I do that? I assume you're referring to the Photrio member Mamiya_Repair. Is there a vendor's forum or something?I'd send It to Mamiya Repair....
You left out my favorite. Has the back accidentally been rotated an invisibly small fraction of a degree off alignment?'shutter locked by something': release locked with knurled collar?, no film in camera?, film not wound on?, film not wound on and multi exposure not engaged?, darkslide not out? As you have found out, the camera has a number of safety features. They are there to stop unintended exposures or unintended film advance. These features are quite common on modular medium format cameras and stop a whole bunch of screw-ups that would otherwise happen all too easily.
No, my other lenses do not have any problems with mounting and removing. Just the 65mm.'hole in leatherette': roll back the original material and glue.
'locking ring loosened itself': gripping it tightly may have distorted it and then, over a period of time, it relaxed. Do any others lenses get stuck as you described? Something is out of shape or has been dropped.
In this case, he includes his website address in the signature part of each post he makes. I would expect that you can reach him through that.I don't really know my way around this site. How would I do that? I assume you're referring to the Photrio member Mamiya_Repair. Is there a vendor's forum or something?
Tape will eventually come off and leave a sticky residue so do not use any.I must not have explained the 'hole' situation. I didn't do the 'peel it back, use the hole in the body to fix the problem, and reglue the leather' method. I saw someone recommending just making a hole in the leatherette and fixing the problem; no peeling, no regluing. So, I did that. But, they didn't say what to do afterwards. I could just stick a bit of tape over it, but it isn't clear to me whether the hole in the leather is a problem or not.
Done.Perhaps he will take any contact from you as a sign that it would be a good idea to become a paid advertiser - hint, hint.
That was my inclination.As for the hole in the leather, I wouldn't worry about it.
Two problems is a lot? It probably does need servicing, but I haven't run an entire roll of film through it successfully, yet, so I'm not willing to make that additional investment until I have seen what kind of results I can produce with it. Well, maybe I have, but I won't know that until I get the negatives back from the lab...'back rotated a fraction off': this isn't an interlock problem. Sounds like excess wear and tear or service needed. Sorry to hear you're having all these problems with what is notoriously reliable camera.
Thanks for the advice. I honestly forgot that there was such a thing as black silicone.Tape will eventually come off and leave a sticky residue so do not use any.
Apply a very small dab of black silicone rubber over the hole. You might even make it look like the leatherette.
Just an FYI, here's what you're trying to hit when you pull the front leather. That's why ponking a hole isn't as good as peeling, you can't see where you're going:
Well, that's good. Won't cost as much to ship to and from. And he did respond very quickly to my inquiry.Bill Rogers: mamiyarepair.com
He's in Nevada, not a million miles from you...
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