Removing Leatherette

[thuggins]

I need to remove the leatherette on an Olympus Chrome VI to get at the screws for removing the bellows and associated assembly. In my heart of hearts I am coming to peace with it being destroyed. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[AgX]

A general advise is to try solvents as gasoline or white spirit whether they they attack the leatherette. If not then try to apply the solvent sparingly to the gap you make.

Yes, I rather leave a camera unrepaired than to risk to spoil a leatherette. I hate screws behing hidden by leatherette and tend to get hysterical on this issue... With fine repairs in mind, I'm likely overreacting.

 

[shutterfinger]

http://liftoffinc.com/tape-remover/ safe on surfaces.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Motsenbockers-22-oz-Tape-Label-and-Adhesive-Remover-407-01/100029845
Wash treated area with water before reattaching with glue.

 

[Leigh B]

The correct adhesive for re-attaching leatherette (assuming you can remove it intact) is Pliobond.
That's what camera repair techs use.

It provides good adhesion over a wide range of temperatures, yet allows the leatherette to be removed in the future if necessary without damage.

Obviously this doesn't help you with removing it in the first place.

- Leigh

 

[Patrick Robert James]

XActo makes a blade that looks a bit like a chisel. Use one of those and carefully walk the leather off a couple millimeters at a time. Take your time. The trouble with using solvents is you tend to pull on the leather, which stretches it. Never pull on it. Solvents are fine for cleaning the body afterwards though.

Good luck

 

[M Carter]

XActo makes a blade that looks a bit like a chisel. Use one of those and carefully walk the leather off a couple millimeters at a time. Take your time. The trouble with using solvents is you tend to pull on the leather, which stretches it. Never pull on it. Solvents are fine for cleaning the body afterwards though.

Good luck

Have to disagree - a solvent that's purpose-made for removing the type of glue used - when used correctly - should require little pressure. You have to let the solvent do the work though. Drip some on a seam and cover with a paper towel scrap with a few drops more and cover that in plastic wrap (test the solvent on the wrap though - if it dissolves the wrap, it likely has no business near your camera). Let it work its way in and gently work the seam up - I've used things like an old credit card sanded to a thin edge - a wide, soft and gentle lifting force is usually better than a pinpoint. Use a syringe or a drip-type bottle to puddle more solvent under the leatherette so it can work its way under. Slowly lift and push more solvent under (a small paintbrush is handy here too). With patience, you should be able to lift the leatherette without stretching or tearing it - I'd be worried about using a sharp chisel-type thing as it could introduce small stretches or tears, though I imagine with care it should work. (Recalling my graphic arts days of using Bestine to lift rubber cemented photos and things - devising sort of a "spatula" as wide as the object to be lifted works well to prevent distortions). (BTW, Bestine is a good rubber glue solvent, but read the label and consider any future children you might desire being born with all their appropriate appendages - I'd wear gloves and work in a well vented space!)

Just one of many techniques I suppose, but "let the tool to the work" and being patient is often a good philosophy.

 

[AgX]

I would be careful with any solvent, as I indicated. However the solvents I hinted at do not leave a residue themselves. And likely they will only make the old rubbercement disintegrate and not turn into something that gets soaked into the leatherette.
With dissolving agents that are intended for stickers and other parts that will be discarded I would be very cautious. I know ones that leave a great lot of residue, which I prefer not to have on the leatherette.

 

[shutterfinger]

I have been using the Liftoff for 15 years. It has never damaged any surface or material. It cleans off easily, usually a surface wipe with a damp cloth.

 

[choiliefan]

Shutterfinger, does the Liftoff soften the adhesive on old wooden-bodied Graflex cameras? Curious as I believe that is a hide-type glue... no? Best wishes,

 

[Leigh B]

Have to disagree - a solvent that's purpose-made for removing the type of glue used - when used correctly - should require little pressure.

A true statement, but meaningless.

We have no idea what glue was used, and there's no way to find out.

- Leigh

 

[M Carter]

A true statement, but meaningless.

We have no idea what glue was used, and there's no way to find out.

- Leigh

You don't need to know the exact glue. 99% iso has worked great for me. You can find out pretty quickly if a solvent will work or not. I really, really prefer gently lifting the stuff off than chiseling away with an exacto or tugging it off. I'm sure there's not one single correct method - if you can get it off without destroying it, you're good.

As for getting it back on - I've read about using hand sanitizer, which is sort of gelatinized alcohol. Allows you some leeway to slide the stuff around before it evaporates. Need to try that some time, don't know if that would work with pliobond, but for replacing with a new leatherette that's self-adhesive, I imagine it would..

 

[Chrismat]

You don't need to know the exact glue. 99% iso has worked great for me. You can find out pretty quickly if a solvent will work or not. I really, really prefer gently lifting the stuff off than chiseling away with an exacto or tugging it off. I'm sure there's not one single correct method - if you can get it off without destroying it, you're good.

As for getting it back on - I've read about using hand sanitizer, which is sort of gelatinized alcohol. Allows you some leeway to slide the stuff around before it evaporates. Need to try that some time, don't know if that would work with pliobond, but for replacing with a new leatherette that's self-adhesive, I imagine it would..

You don't need to know the exact glue. 99% iso has worked great for me. You can find out pretty quickly if a solvent will work or not. I really, really prefer gently lifting the stuff off than chiseling away with an exacto or tugging it off. I'm sure there's not one single correct method - if you can get it off without destroying it, you're good.

As for getting it back on - I've read about using hand sanitizer, which is sort of gelatinized alcohol. Allows you some leeway to slide the stuff around before it evaporates. Need to try that some time, don't know if that would work with pliobond, but for replacing with a new leatherette that's self-adhesive, I imagine it would..

I use hand sanitizer (wo aloe, just plain) when applying a new leatherette such as one purchased from cameraleather.com. It works great. Just apply it to the sticky side of the leatherette and place it on the camera. Smooth out the leatherette and wipe off the excess sanitizer. For an old leatherette, I imagine the glue that is used to re apply it will allow for some movement to get it back on just right.

 

[shutterfinger]

Shutterfinger, does the Liftoff soften the adhesive on old wooden-bodied Graflex cameras? Curious as I believe that is a hide-type glue... no? Best wishes,

I think its hyde glue until 1946, I don't know after that. I usually loosens on its own but if not warm water will loosen it, however, if its old dried out leather the warm water will harm/destroy it.
Leather was used from 1894-1946, Naughide (leatherette) from 1947-1973.

 

[Leigh B]

Leather was used from 1894-1946, Naughide from 1947-1973.

That agrees with reports I heard that Naugas went extinct in the early 1970s.

I expect they ran out of hides shortly thereafter.

- Leigh

 

[shutterfinger]

That agrees with reports I heard that Naugas went extinct in the early 1970s.

yeah, they quit breeding then when Graflex closed their doors.